Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar
Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017! I could not find listers' advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current wire/rope to Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX). The halyard sheaves appear to have enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the sheaves need to be smooth to avoid chafe, which they appear to be. Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards on my 35-3. Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16? Anyone with opinion? *Chuck Saur* (517)-490-5926 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar
Chuck, Full disclosure: I work for a rope company, Novabraid. 3/8" halyards with a blended UHMWPE core will be plenty strong enough. No question. And Samson MLX is an awesome product and very similar in design to our Argus rope (although we use Spectra rather than Dyneema in the core blend). The key ingredient is stretch and elongation. After getting the initial creep out of the rope doing some pre- tensioning, 3/8" MLX rope will be lighter aloft and easier to handle.And will your rope clutches grip a 3/8" rope if you are replacing a 7/16" rope/wire halyard? What about your masthead sheaves? Check for wear and burrs on the sheaves (from years of wear from wire) before you reeve a new halyard and destroy the cover on the first sail. My 35LF has 3/8" Argus halyards and they're perfectly strong and stretch resistant. Let us know how you like the new halyards! Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 24, 2017, at 4:53 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List > wrote: > > Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017! I could not find listers' > advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current wire/rope > to Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX). The halyard sheaves appear to > have enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the sheaves need to be > smooth to avoid chafe, which they appear to be. > > Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards on > my 35-3. Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16? > > Anyone with opinion? > > > Chuck Saur > > (517)-490-5926 > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)
Someone stop me before I go too far I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C&C 33-1 in preparation for the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently. To to insulate properly, I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart and possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation. The teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the fiddles) and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible, I'd like to save those and do this as non-destructively as possible. I've noticed that much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with corroded Robertson head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the plugs on the teak trim. Other than that, how the cabinet box is held together is a mystery to me. Any suggestions and experience (woeful and otherwise) would be much appreciated! Best, David ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar
Chuck, The 3/8” MLX will be plenty strong. Heck, I might have gone down to 5/16” if my clutches would grip it. I’ve replaced several sheaves. The originals, if they are in good shape, will work will all rope halyards. The plain bearings will eventually develop play and will need to be replaced. They aluminum sheaves are a bit rough on the surface too, but as long as they spin freely you shouldn’t have any trouble. Jake Jake Brodersen C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 16:54 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur Subject: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017! I could not find listers' advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current wire/rope to Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX). The halyard sheaves appear to have enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the sheaves need to be smooth to avoid chafe, which they appear to be. Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards on my 35-3. Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16? Anyone with opinion? Chuck Saur (517)-490-5926 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)
You might look under the fridge door gasket for screws. These should hold the fridge "liner" into the fridge "cabinet". Most if not all of the trim is probably NOT going to need removed. The cabinet tops are simply held by screws from below. If you do find that you need to remove a wood plug, use a wood screw to screw into the center of the plug. The screw tip will push down against the screw head beneath the plug and then will start lifting the plug out. It usually leaves a very clean hole. The trim on my boat is cherry. Teak doesn't match so make sure you know what type of wood you have and match your plugs to it. Worst case scenario you will have to cut plugs if tou can't find matching wood. Easy to do with a plug cutter. Glue the new plug in and then shave off the plug head until it is flush. Lightly sand with a block and then stain/oil/finish. Despite having used teak plugs in my cherry trim, mine finished nicely with teak colored Danish oil. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jan 24, 2017 7:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" wrote: > Someone stop me before I go too far > > I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C&C 33-1 in preparation for > the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently. To to > insulate properly, I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart > and possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation. > The teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the > fiddles) and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible, > I'd like to save those and do this as non-destructively as possible. I've > noticed that much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with > corroded Robertson head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the > plugs on the teak trim. Other than that, how the cabinet box is held > together is a mystery to me. Any suggestions and experience (woeful and > otherwise) would be much appreciated! > > Best, > > David > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as the bilge. Are there any suggestions?___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar
See the attached Practical Sailor article to make a value based decision on the type of line you use. I have gone to all rope halyards in 3/8" size. I love Yale Crystaline. It is awesome to work with, super strong, ultra low stretch, light weight, extremely weather resistant, and it even floats. The only negative I have to report is that it is very slippery. I need a full drum of wraps and a hand to tail it with on my self-tailing winches. It also takes some care when transitioning the load from the winch to the clutches. Truth be told I think there is a spring broken or lose in the clutch. I've also used Sampson Warpspeed with a great deal of satisfaction. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ While your changing the halyards consider the following piece of advice which I found somewhere on the internet. "I was taught (by an English race crew) that Mainsail controls are always green, jib sails blue and spinnakers red. Halyards are solid colors and sheets, outhauls etc. flecked or with tracers. (By following this convention, crews are able to move from boat-to-boat without having to be re-educated.)" Also when considering how to terminate your halyards a core to core eye splice will seem sexy and appealing but the resulting thickness and stiffness of the taper can be problematic when going around the turning block. I prefer a double overhand on itself knot. I do accept the drawback that removal will require a knife. It is a small price to pay and the tail probably needed freshened up by that time anyway. A smaller amount of rope is lost making and cutting away a double overhand knot than that of a core to core eye splice. http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/46/doitie.html Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jan 24, 2017 4:54 PM, "Chuck Saur via CnC-List" wrote: > Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017! I could not find listers' > advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current > wire/rope to Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX). The halyard > sheaves appear to have enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the > sheaves need to be smooth to avoid chafe, which they appear to be. > > Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards > on my 35-3. Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16? > > Anyone with opinion? > > > *Chuck Saur* > > (517)-490-5926 <(517)%20490-5926> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
