Re: Stus-List Corrosion on Vang mounting tabs.

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh

Allen

On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 10:07 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Oh yeah I forgot.  That pitting/flaking corrosion around fasteners is
> galvanic corrosion that occurs between the stainless steel fastener and the
> aluminum.  After the corrosion is removed and repainted, use tef-gel to
> help minimize moisture intrusion and prevent more corrosion.
>
> Josh
>
> On Nov 29, 2016 6:19 AM, "Allen Miles via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I just ordered a solid vang and noticed corrosion on the tabs on the boom
>> and at the base of the mast where the vang will be attached.  What's the
>> best way to resurface the tabs before mounting the vang?
>>
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> S/V Septima 30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Molding question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Matthew — welcome back!  How long a piece of molding do you need?  And is 
it straight, or on an inside or outside curve?  This past summer I salvaged 
some straight molding (not a lot, but some) from a 38 that suffered hull core 
damage, and was being stripped and landfilled.  This would be the proper 
dimensions for what looked like 10mm ply with the laminate face on both sides.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 29, 2016, at 10:43 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello C&C list:
>  
> I subscribed to this list a long time ago when I owned a 1978 C&C 34.  
> Not sure why I unsubscribed, but it’s good to be back.
>  
> I now sail a 1976 C&C 42 Custom, only six of which were built.  (These 
> boats were a less expensive sistership of the original Baltic 42.)  I’m 
> restoring the boat and have a molding problem.  A piece of molding that 
> covered an exposed bulkhead corner is broken, and the broken piece is 
> missing.  (Based on the location, it was probably broken when the mast was 
> stepped.)  The molding style can be referred to as “bulkhead” molding or 
> “cap” molding, but it looks more rounded than molding available today.  
> Worse, the track in currently available corner molding pieces is not oriented 
> the same way.  Instead, it appears that molding makers have gone to “edge” 
> molding for this application, which in my case would be “outside edge” 
> (assuming I could get the correct radius).  However, an outside edge piece of 
> molding will not look like it fits with the existing molding used everywhere 
> else on the boat.
>  
> Before I start looking for a woodworker to make a very expensive piece of 
> corner molding, does anyone know of a source for the molding that C&C used in 
> the 1970s?  Please advise.  Thanks.
>  
> Matthew L. Wolford 
> 638 West Sixth Street 
> Erie, PA 16507 
> (814) 459-9600 (Office) 
> (814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
> (814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Jim

Boats don’t motor very well when the shaft is not bolted to the transmission.

Trust me.   I know

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 10:17 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

Try this one instead. I hate the internet. http://i.imgur.com/BaiDYxU.jpg

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC




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Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument eventually 
died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up and then died 
for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and two impellors 
from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died just now ☹ They 
were all new in box too.
I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a modern 
speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them back in 
the day as an Autohelm dealer.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Mine is from Raymarine and it is removable for cleaning while the boat 
is in the water. I keep the dummy plug in the thruhull except when I 
need to use the speed instrument. Takes a couple minutes to swap out, 
but not a big deal. My old one was a 1986 Standard Horizon that was 
still working when I replaced all of my instruments a couple years ago. 
You can use a water based antifouling paint on it if you wish, but I 
don't bother.


Bill Bina


On 11/30/2016 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument 
eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting 
gunked up and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one 
instrument and two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly 
and the other one died just now LThey were all new in box too.


I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there 
a modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton 
of them back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.


Joe

Coquina



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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There are ultrasonic speed transducers (no moving parts), but they aren’t cheap 
(around $650?). Arimar makes them, as well.

Marek

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 08:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument eventually 
died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up and then died 
for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and two impellors 
from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died just now ☹ They 
were all new in box too.
I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a modern 
speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them back in 
the day as an Autohelm dealer.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I have Nexus NX2 instruments (now owned by Garmin), and they are very reliable. 
 No problem with five year old speed transducer.

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail 
Subject: Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

Mine is from Raymarine and it is removable for cleaning while the boat is in 
the water. I keep the dummy plug in the thruhull except when I need to use the 
speed instrument. Takes a couple minutes to swap out, but not a big deal. My 
old one was a 1986 Standard Horizon that was still working when I replaced all 
of my instruments a couple years ago. You can use a water based antifouling 
paint on it if you wish, but I don't bother. 


Bill Bina




On 11/30/2016 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

  For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument 
eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up and 
then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and two 
impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died just 
now L They were all new in box too.

  I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a 
modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them 
back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.

  Joe

  Coquina


   

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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

My Hurth transmission has a drain, as well. Totally useless. In my stupidity, 
after having problems to suck out all of the old oil, I decided to use the 
drain. Opening it is not a big deal (an extra joint in the arm would certainly 
help). But putting that plug back in requires at least two extra joints or some 
help from a very little person (2-3 inches max). Suffice to say that it took me 
probably a good hour and a few choice words to put the plug back in. Note to 
all: don’t try it at home.

I am not overly surprised that some PO stripped the threads in the plug 
(probably in the transmission housing, because it is aluminium(?) and the plug 
is steel). He probably gave up after only 50 min.

Marek

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 21:16
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

My Kanzaki gearbox has a drain. 3GM30F. I know because it cost me a lot of 
money to have the tranny pulled just so they could helicoil the drain plug that 
some prior idiot had stripped and "fixed" with goop. That was a very fortunate 
morning that I decided to check under the engine before a long passage and 
found a large puddle of clean oil. The drain plug is the hex head at the bottom 
of the transmission.

http://imgur.com/5ff77e95-9f86-47d1-8054-6b2e13e2e845


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 29 November 2016 at 14:12, BillBinaList via CnC-List  
wrote:

The manufacturer says single weight, either 20# or 30#. So, if you are in the 
Arctic circle, or somewhere so cold that heavier oil affects shifting or 
slippage, use straight 20#. Elsewhere, use straight 30#.

https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/com/product/marinepleasure/sailBoatPropulsion/operationmanualgears/outlineKM4A-2.pdf

Bill Bina

On 11/29/2016 4:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
I've not come across this designator "SAE 20/30".  I've seen "SAE 30" and "SAE 
20" but never "SAE 20/30".  I believe the other listers are probably correct 
that it is designating one or the other.  Building on that assumption, if it 
makes life easier, you can use a multi weight oil since they are all the same 
viscosity at operating temperature.  A 5w30 or 10w30 will be fine.

http://themotoroilevaluator.com/members-blog/understanding-multi-viscosity-oils/#axzz4RR6Z4Xs2

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Tue, Nov 29, 2016, 2:53 PM Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
wrote:
I would suspect that you would use the right weight based on operating 
temperature.  Up here in the great white north you probably would use 20w.  As 
you move south into warmer temperatures you may want to use 30w.  Age could 
also play a factor.  Am I glad I use ATF😜


Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Nov 29, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Maek,

It means a single weight oil - either 20w or 30w, not a multi-weight such as 
10w-30.

Joel

On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 1:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:


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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Joe

How often is your boat hauled?  Is it like our Northern boats where it is only 
in the water for 5-6 months a year or year round like our Southern friends?  
That would have a huge impact on fouling of all impellors IMO

Mike
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 9:51 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument eventually 
died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up and then died 
for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and two impellors 
from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died just now ☹ They 
were all new in box too.
I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a modern 
speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them back in 
the day as an Autohelm dealer.
Joe
Coquina
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I come out every third year. The impellor itself can come out and be cleaned, 
but if it is just dead cleaning won’t help it. I usually have it out when not 
using the boat frequently.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

Joe

How often is your boat hauled?  Is it like our Northern boats where it is only 
in the water for 5-6 months a year or year round like our Southern friends?  
That would have a huge impact on fouling of all impellors IMO

Mike
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 9:51 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument eventually 
died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up and then died 
for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and two impellors 
from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died just now ☹ They 
were all new in box too.
I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a modern 
speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them back in 
the day as an Autohelm dealer.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

My 30 year old Signet Marine depth and speed instruments have never failed.  
They still sell them and they're rock solid.  www.signetmarine.com/.  I suspect 
you may have water in your cables that is eventually penetrating the impeller.  
 As to modern the Airmar looks good and is nmea 2000.  Jerry J&J

 


Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor NMEA 2000

Product ID: AM1110-30 MFG ID: ST850-N2
Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor feature embedded micro-electronics. Speed and 
temperature signals are processed inside the sensor and can be displayed on any 
radar,chart plotter, or device that accepts NMEA 2000 data.
Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours

MSRP/MAP Price $242.73

Our Price 
$208.95

Select ST850 Option:
Plastic Nylon $208.95
Bronze $273.95
Stainless Steel $383.95

Qty: 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 30, 2016, at 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument 
> eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up 
> and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and 
> two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died 
> just now L They were all new in box too.
> I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a 
> modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them 
> back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I just discovered (new to me at least) that Signet Marine sells refurbished
Signet Marine traditional round instruments and sensors.
http://www.signetmarine.com/products-2/used_instruments/used.html. They
give seemingly-appropriate warnings about reduced appearance and expected
lifespan, and prices look medium.
I might consider this for my wind stuff (already replaced speed and depth
instruments on my 36 year old 30-1).

No connection to SIgnet.

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the hard on the St. Croix River, WI.

and
Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31
on the hard Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia, WI
Lake Superior


On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 9:14 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 30 year old Signet Marine depth and speed instruments have never
> failed.  They still sell them and they're rock solid.
> www.signetmarine.com/.  I suspect you may have water in your cables that
> is eventually penetrating the impeller.   As to modern the Airmar looks
> good and is nmea 2000.  Jerry J&J
> [image: Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor NMEA 2000]
> 
>
> [image: Display Larger Image (pop-ups must be allowed)]
> 
>
>
> Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor NMEA 2000
> Product ID: AM1110-30 MFG ID: ST850-N2
> Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor feature embedded micro-electronics. Speed and
> temperature signals are processed inside the sensor and can be displayed on
> any radar,chart plotter, or device that accepts NMEA 2000 data.
> *Availability:* Usually ships within 24 hours
>
> MSRP/MAP Price $242.73
> Our Price
> $208.95
> Select ST850 Option:
> Plastic Nylon $208.95
> Bronze $273.95
> Stainless Steel $383.95
>
> *Qty: *
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 30, 2016, at 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument
> eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up
> and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and
> two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one
> died just now L They were all new in box too.
>
> I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a
> modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them
> back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I had the Signet wind instrument set on Windburn. To get inter-connectivity I 
switched
to Raymarine ST-50 wind. My feeling is the Signet responded faster, was more 
accurate
and would work to a lower wind speed. I called Signet support once, they helped 
me
get a part number for a component and offered to ship one to me or cross 
reference
it so I could purchase locally.

Note that the SL254 has apparent wind only, no way to switch to true under way.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


From: Nate Flesness  

I just discovered (new to me at least) that Signet Marine sells refurbished 
Signet Marine traditional round instruments and sensors. 
http://www.signetmarine.com/products-2/used_instruments/used.html. They 
give seemingly-appropriate warnings about reduced appearance and expected 
lifespan, and prices look medium. 
I might consider this for my wind stuff (already replaced speed and depth 
instruments on my 36 year old 30-1). 
 
No connection to SIgnet. 
 
Nate 
Sarah Jean 
1980 30-1 
on the hard on the St. Croix River, WI. 
 
and 
Valhalla 
1994 Tartan 31 
on the hard Siskiwit Bay Marina 
Cornucopia, WI 
Lake Superior 
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Stus-List Max Prop 3 blade consternation/confusion.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I purchased La Neige last year. She has a 3 blade max prop folding prop.
There was alot of slop/play and I removed it and sent it back to the
manufacturer. It was refurbished, then returned to me. The local yard, a
Max Prop approved installer assisted in the reinstallation. At the time I
thought there was still some play, but hte yard assured me it was fine.
After haulout this year I again noticed the excessive amount of play. After
disassembly I see some worrying wear on the gears. So, I removed it to ship
it back again. After cleaning it I reassembled it to place it in the box
for shipping and I notice the play is almost negligible.
I called the Rep at the Manufacturer and he is as baffled as I am.
Does anyone here have any ideas what may be causing this? (play when
installed, but not when removed from shaft?)

-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C&C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List Max Prop 3 blade consternation/confusion.

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Perhaps the shaft is not tapered properly?

Joel

On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 4:29 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I purchased La Neige last year. She has a 3 blade max prop folding prop.
> There was alot of slop/play and I removed it and sent it back to the
> manufacturer. It was refurbished, then returned to me. The local yard, a
> Max Prop approved installer assisted in the reinstallation. At the time I
> thought there was still some play, but hte yard assured me it was fine.
> After haulout this year I again noticed the excessive amount of play.
> After disassembly I see some worrying wear on the gears. So, I removed it
> to ship it back again. After cleaning it I reassembled it to place it in
> the box for shipping and I notice the play is almost negligible.
> I called the Rep at the Manufacturer and he is as baffled as I am.
> Does anyone here have any ideas what may be causing this? (play when
> installed, but not when removed from shaft?)
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C&C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My Nexus Classic knotlog is pushing 15 years.  I don't leave it in the
boat.  Remove it and replace it with the plug if boat is going to sit for
more than a few days.

I did, however, add stress relief to the cable entering the transducer
after the original transducer died after 2-3 years.  Nexus tech told me the
shield and wires were subject to breakage due to the Lack of stress relief
there.

Garmin now sells the descendent systems from Nexus/NX2.  Nice instruments.

Dennis C.

On Nov 30, 2016 9:12 AM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have Nexus NX2 instruments (now owned by Garmin), and they are very
> reliable.  No problem with five year old speed transducer.
>
> *From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 30, 2016 9:06 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration
>
>
> Mine is from Raymarine and it is removable for cleaning while the boat is
> in the water. I keep the dummy plug in the thruhull except when I need to
> use the speed instrument. Takes a couple minutes to swap out, but not a big
> deal. My old one was a 1986 Standard Horizon that was still working when I
> replaced all of my instruments a couple years ago. You can use a water
> based antifouling paint on it if you wish, but I don't bother.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 11/30/2016 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
>
> For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument
> eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up
> and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and
> two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one
> died just now L They were all new in box too.
>
> I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a
> modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them
> back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Max Prop 3 blade consternation/confusion.

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I'm about to deliver a boat that had a max prop installed with the wrong key on 
the shaft, which caused problems.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 30, 2016, at 16:32, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Perhaps the shaft is not tapered properly?
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Wed, Nov 30, 2016 at 4:29 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I purchased La Neige last year. She has a 3 blade max prop folding prop. 
>> There was alot of slop/play and I removed it and sent it back to the 
>> manufacturer. It was refurbished, then returned to me. The local yard, a Max 
>> Prop approved installer assisted in the reinstallation. At the time I 
>> thought there was still some play, but hte yard assured me it was fine.
>> After haulout this year I again noticed the excessive amount of play. After 
>> disassembly I see some worrying wear on the gears. So, I removed it to ship 
>> it back again. After cleaning it I reassembled it to place it in the box for 
>> shipping and I notice the play is almost negligible. 
>> I called the Rep at the Manufacturer and he is as baffled as I am. 
>> Does anyone here have any ideas what may be causing this? (play when 
>> installed, but not when removed from shaft?)
>> 
>> -- 
>> Brian Fry
>> S/V La Neige
>> 1993 C&C 37/40XL
>> HdG Maryland
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank for a 
42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar panels, 
regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels, but in most 
cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm thinking West 
Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to go for the wire 
and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of panels 
anyone has had luck with.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

Sent from my iPhone
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I got a quote from Ferris Hamilton for a 200w system for a soft Bimini mount 
for about $1500 USD.  It included 2 flexible panels, controller, wiring, 
special pop on attachment buttons, and wiring instructions.  This was their 
"boat show deal".  I too have seen these things far less expensive on Amazon 
with favorable reviews.  I guess you roll the dice and hope for the best, 
although I can drive 20 minutes to Ferris and get customer service if something 
goes haywire.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram,MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 30, 2016, at 7:24 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank for a 
> 42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar panels, 
> regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels, but in most 
> cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm thinking West 
> Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to go for the wire 
> and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of panels 
> anyone has had luck with.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

Grape solar panels appear to have a good rep with the RV and sailing 
communities. I just bought a 100 amp panel with solar regulator from Home Depot 
at a decent price (300 total). So far, it works well and is put together well. 

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 G Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
Date:11/30/2016 7:24 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels? 

Hey all,

I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank for a 
42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar panels, 
regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels, but in most 
cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm thinking West 
Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to go for the wire 
and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of panels 
anyone has had luck with.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have not been disappointed with my flexible panels that I got off of
eBay.  I paid ~$150 each for two 100w panels.  I cheaped out on the panels
but made sure to get quality charge controllers from Genasun.  MPPT, 8amp
with boost.  I got cheap volt/amp/power meters with digital displays for
about $10 each.  My setup is basically 2 separate channels which allow for
a failure (or shade) on one of the panels to not affect the other.   During
peak summer sun I can get about 5 amps (~60w) from each panel.  I don't
have my panels mounted at the correct angle to the sun, I'm not near the
equator, and I'm no where near to achieving all of the other perfect
laboratory conditions underwhich the panels are rated, so I feel like 60w
is pretty good.

The panels are a no-name panel identical to the 100w ones in this link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/332047656055

This is a link to the power meters:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391597720678

You can see my install here:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yTk11VVRsREZhMzA

Panels = 300
Genasun controllers = 200
Wire = 50
Thru-hull = 50
Total cost of install was a little over $600.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 30, 2016 6:27 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank
> for a 42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar
> panels, regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels,
> but in most cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm
> thinking West Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to
> go for the wire and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of
> panels anyone has had luck with.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Rum.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 29 November 2016 at 22:32, Lee via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Jim, What would you suggest to cure pilot error?
> Lee
> 35-3 c/b
> Blue Point NY
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> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Cc: Jim Watts 
> Sent: Tue, Nov 29, 2016 9:18 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change
>
> Try this one instead. I hate the internet. http://i.imgur.com/BaiDYxU.jpg
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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