Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ron

We installed the gauge on the advice of my mechanic who has been working on 
Yanmar marine engines for over 30 years.  He is the local expert.  I purchased 
a new sender unit and took that to a fittings supplier in our industrial park.  
The fellow at the counter picked out a couple adaptors and a Tee and had me set 
up in less than 5 minutes.  There was no problem finding the matching threads.  
Total cost excluding gauge and sender was under $20.  The gauge I purchased at 
Princess Auto.

Over the last two seasons we have motored a lot.  We had taken the boat from 
Halifax, NS to Bras Dors Lakes and had just completed Baddeck Race Week.  
Mooring from Baddeck to Dundee at 2800 RPMS (30NM) we started hearing an odd 
clicking sound at approx. 3 NM from destination.  Determined this was the 
pressure alarm starting and then stopping but not quite coming on full.  After 
turning off motor and sailing into our friend's dock in Dundee we checked out 
the engine more fully.  The first suggestion was to check the oil pressure.  
How do you accomplish this without a gauge?  It should be just over 50psi.

The next week we installed the guage and determined the pressure was just over 
45 psi.  So while the alarm was just cutting in the oil pressure was really all 
that low.  New oil and filter and it was back up to approx 52psi

I do not see how a brass gauge and fittings would suffer a catastrophic 
failure.  Even if the gauge was to shatter or fail it would be simple to remove 
the sender unit off the other end of the tee and install it directly in the 
engine

Mike

From: Ron Ricci [mailto:rvri...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 8:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: RE: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

First, I checked out Mike's link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.  I'm 
partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot stripe and 
gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft resulting in 
multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace the shaft.

I've been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding the 
appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing pressure 
switch setup is not necessarily 'fail-safe'.  Probably the most difficult thing 
will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I wonder if any other 
lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?

Thanks to all listers for your feedback,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
(978) 877-0369
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

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Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Tony

One issue with the mast atop the boat is that it limits your work space unless 
you are working inside the boat.  On our previous boat (J27) we had it shrink 
wrapped with the mast on stern and bow pulpits and it was very cramped to get 
on and off due to the mast being in the way.  On our current boat we have a Top 
Shop custom cover and frame.  There is sufficient room to work under this cover

Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of anthony 
psaris via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 11:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: anthony psaris
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

Thanks, for your help, and sorry for the misspelling .

Anthony Psaris

On Saturday, November 5, 2016 7:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Tony,

If you mean “Ronin” instead of Ronan, that would be my shelter. It’s from a 
company in Connecticut called Shelter Logic. You can go on their website and 
design a shelter to spec. From there you order directly through them. The 
covers come in 1-year, 10-year and (I think) 20-year weight material. My 
shelter is the 10-year material and it is very sturdy. I ordered a rear roll-up 
door using the cheaper 1-year material it is not even close to being as tough. 
There was an earlier shelter from the same company in the boatyard that lasted 
13 years before TS Matthew ripped it.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Nov 5, 2016, at 2:59 PM, anthony psaris via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Need to cover C&C29mk2 for the winter and have the ability to work inside and 
out. suggestions for resources on dome type covers with mast laid over . I had 
seen one on Ronans blog that looks great. Tony

Anthony Psaris
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Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Last winter I had the mast pulled so I could do the rewire (detailed in earlier 
emails); and I also redid the fixed windows and a bunch of other deck work, so 
I wanted a place to work without having to worry about the weather.  For a 
cover, I did some modifications to a design that some marina friends have used 
in the past.  I created a “ridge pole” out of 2x6’s, supported by 2x4 
sawhorse-type legs, for which I actually used metal sawhorse clamps.  I wrapped 
the bottom of the legs in some cheap yoga-mat material to keep them from 
scuffing up the deck.  I also made a support out of doubled-up 2x4’s to rest 
vertically on the bow fitting, to support the forward end of the ridge.

Then I made bows out of 3/4” PVC electrical conduit, and ran these from a 
stanchion on one side of the boat, over the ridge and back down to the matching 
stanchion on the other side.  The ends of these bows had rubber crutch tips on 
them, and the bows were wire-tied to the stanchions, as well as to a hole 
drilled through the ridge.  Intermediate bows were then run between the 
stanchions, and were wire-tied to the lifelines.  To stiffen things up, I 
attached one longitudinal run of conduit along each side of the bows, with 
holes drilled in both the bows and longitudinal to wire-tie them together.

Over the top, I threw a heavy-duty white poly tarp; it was “laced” at the bow 
to seal up the forward end, then lashed to the cradle and snugged up.  Access 
to the boat was from the stern, through a tarp zipper run vertically up from 
the boarding ladder.

This worked extremely well; it let in plenty of light, which warmed the area 
under the cover enough to work in (long) shirtsleeves for much of the winter; 
and it shed snow well, too.  This year, with the mast up, I needed to cut some 
slits in the tarp for the mast and standing rigging; I reinforced the sides of 
the slits with doubled-up Gorilla tape, and pulled them together with wire ties.

I can highly recommend this approach to allow off-season work on the boat; you 
can see photos at http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_1.jpg and 
http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_2.jpg.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 7, 2016, at 7:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Tony
>  
> One issue with the mast atop the boat is that it limits your work space 
> unless you are working inside the boat.  On our previous boat (J27) we had it 
> shrink wrapped with the mast on stern and bow pulpits and it was very cramped 
> to get on and off due to the mast being in the way.  On our current boat we 
> have a Top Shop custom cover and frame.  There is sufficient room to work 
> under this cover
>  
> Mike

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Clever. Why didn’t you tell me about this before I bought my shed?  :-)

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Nov 7, 2016, at 9:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Last winter I had the mast pulled so I could do the rewire (detailed in 
> earlier emails); and I also redid the fixed windows and a bunch of other deck 
> work, so I wanted a place to work without having to worry about the weather.  
> For a cover, I did some modifications to a design that some marina friends 
> have used in the past.  I created a “ridge pole” out of 2x6’s, supported by 
> 2x4 sawhorse-type legs, for which I actually used metal sawhorse clamps.  I 
> wrapped the bottom of the legs in some cheap yoga-mat material to keep them 
> from scuffing up the deck.  I also made a support out of doubled-up 2x4’s to 
> rest vertically on the bow fitting, to support the forward end of the ridge.
> 
> Then I made bows out of 3/4” PVC electrical conduit, and ran these from a 
> stanchion on one side of the boat, over the ridge and back down to the 
> matching stanchion on the other side.  The ends of these bows had rubber 
> crutch tips on them, and the bows were wire-tied to the stanchions, as well 
> as to a hole drilled through the ridge.  Intermediate bows were then run 
> between the stanchions, and were wire-tied to the lifelines.  To stiffen 
> things up, I attached one longitudinal run of conduit along each side of the 
> bows, with holes drilled in both the bows and longitudinal to wire-tie them 
> together.
> 
> Over the top, I threw a heavy-duty white poly tarp; it was “laced” at the bow 
> to seal up the forward end, then lashed to the cradle and snugged up.  Access 
> to the boat was from the stern, through a tarp zipper run vertically up from 
> the boarding ladder.
> 
> This worked extremely well; it let in plenty of light, which warmed the area 
> under the cover enough to work in (long) shirtsleeves for much of the winter; 
> and it shed snow well, too.  This year, with the mast up, I needed to cut 
> some slits in the tarp for the mast and standing rigging; I reinforced the 
> sides of the slits with doubled-up Gorilla tape, and pulled them together 
> with wire ties.
> 
> I can highly recommend this approach to allow off-season work on the boat; 
> you can see photos at http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_1.jpg 
>  and 
> http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_2.jpg 
> .
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Nov 7, 2016, at 7:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Tony
>>  
>> One issue with the mast atop the boat is that it limits your work space 
>> unless you are working inside the boat.  On our previous boat (J27) we had 
>> it shrink wrapped with the mast on stern and bow pulpits and it was very 
>> cramped to get on and off due to the mast being in the way.  On our current 
>> boat we have a Top Shop custom cover and frame.  There is sufficient room to 
>> work under this cover
>>  
>> Mike
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Then you wouldn’t have been able to work on your topsides.   :^)   This only 
helps for work above the toerail.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 7, 2016, at 9:02 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Clever. Why didn’t you tell me about this before I bought my shed?  :-)
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
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Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I use something similar to what Fred describes. If you want a picture, here are 
some: https://1drv.ms/i/s!At7BtDHoAfRtsCUKqiFGOfuWMIS1 and 
https://1drv.ms/i/s!At7BtDHoAfRttChyr9qewd52Aay_.
 Warning: this picture would not show a C&C boat!

I use the 3/4” PVC conduit (the new ribs) and I still have some made of the 
1.5” black PVC water line (I had some available form the work at the cottage).

I raised the mast higher using a scissor-type sawhorse contraption – this helps 
in working inside, but the main reason was that I needed steeper slope to shed 
the snow (we can get easily 20-30 cm (a foot) or more in any of the dumps).

It works now for over three years.

Marek
in Ottawa, ON

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2016 09:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

Last winter I had the mast pulled so I could do the rewire (detailed in earlier 
emails); and I also redid the fixed windows and a bunch of other deck work, so 
I wanted a place to work without having to worry about the weather.  For a 
cover, I did some modifications to a design that some marina friends have used 
in the past.  I created a “ridge pole” out of 2x6’s, supported by 2x4 
sawhorse-type legs, for which I actually used metal sawhorse clamps.  I wrapped 
the bottom of the legs in some cheap yoga-mat material to keep them from 
scuffing up the deck.  I also made a support out of doubled-up 2x4’s to rest 
vertically on the bow fitting, to support the forward end of the ridge.

Then I made bows out of 3/4” PVC electrical conduit, and ran these from a 
stanchion on one side of the boat, over the ridge and back down to the matching 
stanchion on the other side.  The ends of these bows had rubber crutch tips on 
them, and the bows were wire-tied to the stanchions, as well as to a hole 
drilled through the ridge.  Intermediate bows were then run between the 
stanchions, and were wire-tied to the lifelines.  To stiffen things up, I 
attached one longitudinal run of conduit along each side of the bows, with 
holes drilled in both the bows and longitudinal to wire-tie them together.

Over the top, I threw a heavy-duty white poly tarp; it was “laced” at the bow 
to seal up the forward end, then lashed to the cradle and snugged up.  Access 
to the boat was from the stern, through a tarp zipper run vertically up from 
the boarding ladder.

This worked extremely well; it let in plenty of light, which warmed the area 
under the cover enough to work in (long) shirtsleeves for much of the winter; 
and it shed snow well, too.  This year, with the mast up, I needed to cut some 
slits in the tarp for the mast and standing rigging; I reinforced the sides of 
the slits with doubled-up Gorilla tape, and pulled them together with wire ties.

I can highly recommend this approach to allow off-season work on the boat; you 
can see photos at http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_1.jpg and 
http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_2.jpg.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 7, 2016, at 7:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tony

One issue with the mast atop the boat is that it limits your work space unless 
you are working inside the boat.  On our previous boat (J27) we had it shrink 
wrapped with the mast on stern and bow pulpits and it was very cramped to get 
on and off due to the mast being in the way.  On our current boat we have a Top 
Shop custom cover and frame.  There is sufficient room to work under this cover

Mike

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winter work cover

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Great looking idea
Jim


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message From: Frederick G Street via 
CnC-List  Date:11/07/2016  9:29 AM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G 
Street  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter work cover 

Last winter I had the mast pulled so I could do the rewire (detailed in 
earlier emails); and I also redid the fixed windows and a bunch of other deck 
work, so I wanted a place to work without having to worry about the weather.  
For a cover, I did some modifications to a design that some marina friends have 
used in the past.  I created a “ridge pole” out of 2x6’s, supported by 2x4 
sawhorse-type legs, for which I actually used metal sawhorse clamps.  I wrapped 
the bottom of the legs in some cheap yoga-mat material to keep them from 
scuffing up the deck.  I also made a support out of doubled-up 2x4’s to rest 
vertically on the bow fitting, to support the forward end of the ridge.

Then I made bows out of 3/4” PVC electrical conduit, and ran these from a 
stanchion on one side of the boat, over the ridge and back down to the matching 
stanchion on the other side.  The ends of these bows had rubber crutch tips on 
them, and the bows were wire-tied to the stanchions, as well as to a hole 
drilled through the ridge.  Intermediate bows were then run between the 
stanchions, and were wire-tied to the lifelines.  To stiffen things up, I 
attached one longitudinal run of conduit along each side of the bows, with 
holes drilled in both the bows and longitudinal to wire-tie them together.

Over the top, I threw a heavy-duty white poly tarp; it was “laced” at the bow 
to seal up the forward end, then lashed to the cradle and snugged up.  Access 
to the boat was from the stern, through a tarp zipper run vertically up from 
the boarding ladder.

This worked extremely well; it let in plenty of light, which warmed the area 
under the cover enough to work in (long) shirtsleeves for much of the winter; 
and it shed snow well, too.  This year, with the mast up, I needed to cut some 
slits in the tarp for the mast and standing rigging; I reinforced the sides of 
the slits with doubled-up Gorilla tape, and pulled them together with wire ties.

I can highly recommend this approach to allow off-season work on the boat; you 
can see photos at http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_1.jpg and 
http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/cover_2.jpg.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 7, 2016, at 7:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tony
 
One issue with the mast atop the boat is that it limits your work space unless 
you are working inside the boat.  On our previous boat (J27) we had it shrink 
wrapped with the mast on stern and bow pulpits and it was very cramped to get 
on and off due to the mast being in the way.  On our current boat we have a Top 
Shop custom cover and frame.  There is sufficient room to work under this cover
 
Mike

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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