Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I bought two new fans and they both are NOISY! WTF? The old ones I was 
replacing because they made too much noise were better despite probably having 
run for 1,000 hours.
I got one of these, CAFRAMO Two-Speed Compact 12V DC Fan and one of these, 
CAFRAMO Sirocco Cabin Fans.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Fairing an elliptical rudder

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

It turns out the Kingston Museum has the drawings but, because they're moving, 
none of the information is available in the near future.

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+


> On Jun 1, 2016, at 7:29 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Other than original build files or copies from the Kingston Museum, you might 
> try Computer Keels for the proper NACA chord shapes for various vertical 
> depths of your rudder. If the fore-aft distance is not much different from 
> top to bottom of your rudder, a single template at ~ $75 is all you should 
> need. They supplied templates for my centerboard trunk which my yard used to 
> do the fairing over 2 separate haul-outs. Did the forward half of the trunk 
> 1st and the next year did the aft section. Lots of lead removed/fiberglass 
> added but Water Phantom is faster and now reaches the same speed on either 
> tack--a good thing compared to before the fairing. YMMV since the rudder is a 
> relatively minor (compared to the keel) perturbation to the underwater 
> lift/flow.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. 
>> Where might I find information on the lines of this rudder?
>> 
>> Cheers, Al
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at
photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible
to shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a
1976 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently
located at the back of the cockpit.

Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential
to keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy
sailors, I get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as
that.  So, I need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini
top.

I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the
companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from
the traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward
will cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is
going to be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main
sheet.  I will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may
also have to create a new attachment point on the boom.

Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?
Better yet... has anyone already done this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I moved my traveler on my 30-1 from in front of the wheel (all of two feet long 
and nearly worthless) to across the companionway. I know, it is a pain to climb 
around when one has to go below, but how often is your traveler car centered? I 
thought about putting it over the companionway hood, but that was too far 
forward and would put too much strain on the boom. Now I get the widest 
possible location for the traveler and reasonable leverage for the mainsheet.

 

I went to a 4:1/16:1 arrangement for the mainsheet – I have a regular 4:1 
mainsheet arrangement (looks original for the boat) but I took the last 
attachment for the 4:1 and hooked up a lighter weight 4:1 assembly to it 
(actually I used a rope boom vang kit). It has worked well for nearly 20 years.

 

Gary Nylander

Maryland

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

 

Hey guys, 

 

After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at photos 
of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to shade my 
cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a 1976 30mki with a 
single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently located at the back 
of the cockpit.  

 

Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential to 
keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy sailors, I get 
to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as that.  So, I need 
advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top.  

 

I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the companionway.  
This is a leverage point not significantly different from the traveler location 
on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward will cause the load on the 
traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to be lower.  I might need 
extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet.  I will also need strong 
backing blocks under the traveler.  I may also have to create a new attachment 
point on the boom.  

 

Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?  
Better yet... has anyone already done this?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Ryan

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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Ryan,

different boat, but..

On my previous boat, a C&C 24, I had a traveller about a foot astern from the 
companion way. There was no bridge deck there. There was no issue with the boom 
attachment – if anything the bail was moved back. It was great for controlling 
the sail, but it wrecked havoc with my wife’s shins. So before you move your 
traveller there, think hard if it would not make going down below too difficult.

just my $0.02

Marek 
(ex. 1974 C&C 24 “Fennel”)
Ottawa, ON

From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 14:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

Hey guys, 

After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at photos 
of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to shade my 
cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler. I have a 1976 30mki with a 
single back stay and a tiller. The traveler is currently located at the back of 
the cockpit. 

Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that. A shaded cockpit is essential to 
keeping the women in my life happy sailors. When they are happy sailors, I get 
to sail. When they are not, I don't get to sail. Simple as that. So, I need 
advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top. 

I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the companionway. 
This is a leverage point not significantly different from the traveler location 
on a wheel-steered 30mki. I know moving it forward will cause the load on the 
traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to be lower. I might need 
extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet. I will also need strong 
backing blocks under the traveler. I may also have to create a new attachment 
point on the boom. 

Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project? 
Better yet... has anyone already done this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Engine and Prop Vibration

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

It turns out that the violent engine vibration on my 33 mark 2 was due to a 
bent propeller shaft and old, worn Gori folding prop both of which I have 
changed. Everything runs smoothly now and the problem is completely eliminated. 
Thanks for all the advice and recommendations, especially from Brian Cann. 

As this is a new boat to me, the damage was obviously done by the previous 
owner and should have been revealed to me before purchase from the Broker. The 
surveyor didn't pick it up either, although it's not easy to see unless you 
have the appropriate expertise and equipment. However the previous owner must 
have surely known about it. So who's responsible?

Looking forward to problem free summer.
Robin



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Re: Stus-List Engine and Prop Vibration

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Robin,
Ultimately, you're responsible because you accepted the boat for purchase
post survey,  but I would be hesitant to give the surveyor any
recommendations since this was something he missed and could have been
inspected if the boat was on the hard or detected the vibration if the boat
was in the water. 

  In most cases, the survey will have numerous disclaimers as will the sales
agreement when you bought the boat, absolving the broker and surveyor from
any liabilities involving the condition of the boat.  If you opted (like I
did) to purchase your new boat without a sea trial, you leave yourself open
to a myriad of possible problems that only arise once the boat is splashed
and the diesel turns over and the rig gets stepped..  As it turned out, my
surveyor detected a slight anomaly in the prop shaft when he turned the
propeller as the shaft seemed to make a slight noise where it rubbed  on one
side while passing through the opening on the hull.  Once the engine fired
up and put the boat in gear, we were able to detect about 1/8" of run out
which set up a pretty nasty vibration and noise under power.  We later
discovered that the last time the boat was hauled, the slings slid down the
hull and lifted the stern of the boat by the prop shaft which ultimately
caused it to bend.  We were lucky to spot the problem and it was called out
when negotiating a final price on the boat (new shaft, new dripless seal,
new cutlass bearing were subsequently installed, NOT CHEAP!)

I was also lucky that my surveyor was a C&C Landfall 38 owner and had a good
familiarity as to how these boats are assembled and what are the common
problems that can occur.  Even then, trying to sort out all the various
systems when the boat isn't commissioned is a bit of a crap shoot.  While I
thought my refrigeration and plumbing would be good to go even though they
all looked like they were properly winterized, I was hasty and didn't pay
someone to commission and then decommission the boat before I bought.   I'm
still trying to get my Adler Barbour Cold Machine to fire up and the head to
keep from leaking (smelly).   In the end, it probably cost me an extra $2-5K
in hidden repairs that I had assumed to be in good operational shape.

This is all 20/20 hindsight and we certainly learn from our mistakes.  Lucky
for us, this group helps keep mistakes to a minimum if we take the time to
read the various threads to sort out the problems that we'll all likely have
sooner or later.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robin
Drew via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew 
Subject: Stus-List Engine and Prop Vibration

It turns out that the violent engine vibration on my 33 mark 2 was due to a
bent propeller shaft and old, worn Gori folding prop both of which I have
changed. Everything runs smoothly now and the problem is completely
eliminated. Thanks for all the advice and recommendations, especially from
Brian Cann. 

As this is a new boat to me, the damage was obviously done by the previous
owner and should have been revealed to me before purchase from the Broker.
The surveyor didn't pick it up either, although it's not easy to see unless
you have the appropriate expertise and equipment. However the previous owner
must have surely known about it. So who's responsible?

Looking forward to problem free summer.
Robin



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Gary and all 30-1 owners- 

Regarding "how often is your traveler car centered" - well, how often are your 
traveler cars centered? When close-hauled on your 30-1s, are you in the habit 
of pulling the car to windward a bit? My main has leech telltales as well as 
telltales on both sides farther forward, and I've had a hard time getting them 
all to fly at once upwind, despite messing with the angle of attack via 
traveler for a given leech tension via sheet & vang. I've yet to focus on ideal 
car position for other points of sail. When running I've been dropping it way 
leeward, but on all other points of sail I've pretty much been leaving it 
centered. At the dock I pull it all the way to port, because my dock is to 
starboard. I'd be interested to know how you all set your traveler on various 
points of sail. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Gary Nylander"  
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 12:32:39 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki 



I moved my traveler on my 30-1 from in front of the wheel (all of two feet long 
and nearly worthless) to across the companionway. I know, it is a pain to climb 
around when one has to go below, but how often is your traveler car centered? I 
thought about putting it over the companionway hood, but that was too far 
forward and would put too much strain on the boom. Now I get the widest 
possible location for the traveler and reasonable leverage for the mainsheet. 



I went to a 4:1/16:1 arrangement for the mainsheet – I have a regular 4:1 
mainsheet arrangement (looks original for the boat) but I took the last 
attachment for the 4:1 and hooked up a lighter weight 4:1 assembly to it 
(actually I used a rope boom vang kit). It has worked well for nearly 20 years. 



Gary Nylander 

Maryland 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:09 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle  
Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki 




Hey guys, 





After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at photos 
of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to shade my 
cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler. I have a 1976 30mki with a 
single back stay and a tiller. The traveler is currently located at the back of 
the cockpit. 





Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that. A shaded cockpit is essential to 
keeping the women in my life happy sailors. When they are happy sailors, I get 
to sail. When they are not, I don't get to sail. Simple as that. So, I need 
advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top. 





I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the companionway. 
This is a leverage point not significantly different from the traveler location 
on a wheel-steered 30mki. I know moving it forward will cause the load on the 
traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to be lower. I might need 
extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet. I will also need strong 
backing blocks under the traveler. I may also have to create a new attachment 
point on the boom. 





Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project? 
Better yet... has anyone already done this? 





Thanks in advance for any help. 





Ryan 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Regarding "that body of water can get ornery in a very short period of time" - 
to wit, a woman just died paddle boarding off the beach when a storm came up: 
http://www.9news.com/news/local/chatfield-reservoir-drowning/257223837 . I 
don't know why she didn't make it to safety in time. 

By way of update, it turns out the guy I pulled out of the water from the 
sunken fishing boat a couple weeks ago, who I thought was intoxicated or high, 
was apparently just having a panic attack and the hypothermia was affecting him 
more quickly and severely since his heart was beating fast from anxiety and 
pumping cold blood around faster. That made me feel even more guilty for 
forgetting to treat him for hypothermia, and for making an assumption about his 
mental state. I'm familiar with anxiety disorders but certainly did not 
recognize his presentation as a combination of panic and hypothermia. If my 
crew and I had gotten him below and dried off and wrapped up in blankets, maybe 
he would have come around a bit. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "RANDY"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Chuck Gilchrest"  
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 3:03:24 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue 

Awesome Chuck! I didn't know there was anyone else on this list who has sailed 
at Chatfield! 

With the summer afternoon / evening thunderstorms we get on the Colorado Front 
Range, Chatfield can go from zero to oh my God in just a few minutes. 

Let me know if you're ever back out this way! 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Chuck Gilchrest"  
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 2:42:42 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue 



Good job Randy!! When I lived in Colorado 2 decades ago, I had numerous sailing 
adventures on Chatfield Reservoir in my FJ that I owned and trailer sailed at 
the time. Several of those adventures included being pinned against the dam on 
the northeastern side of the lake trying to get into the boat ramp before a 
squall hit. That body of water can get ornery in a very short period of time. 



My wife and I just took a “Suddenly Alone” class at Beverly Yacht Club and 
learned how to use and retrieve a Lifesling. Would not have had a clue 
otherwise… 

Again, you were in the right place and had the knowledge to save those folks. 
You should be very proud! 

Chuck Gilchrest 

S/V Half Magic 

1983 LF 35 

Padanaram MA 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 4:18 PM 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY  
Subject: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue 





Just a little story to share with you all. 





Went out for a leisure sail Friday evening with my daughter her friend, in 
Beaufort 4 or 5 conditions. We sailed under main only, and there was a 15" 
whitecap chop on the water. Hardly any boats on the lake, but one windsurfer 
really hauling ass. 





Out in the middle of the lake, we heard some yelling, and looked around to see 
three PFD-less people standing on a small low fiberglass fishing boat that was 
going down by the stern. I barely had time to say "shit, they're sinking." Next 
time I looked, the boat was gone, and the people were in the water amongst 
various debris. There were no other boats in the vicinity and I realized we 
were going to have to rescue them as quickly as we could. 





Started my Atomic-4 without running the blower first, luffed my main, drove to 
them, and threw out my life sling. Had to circle them three or four times 
dragging the life sling line by them, before we could get them all pulled in 
and aboard via the swim ladder. I missed on the first try or two just due to 
the wind and water conditions and my main flogging. One of them was about 30 
yards from the other two, who told me to get the lone guy first. By the time we 
got the other two aboard, they'd been in the 68-degree water probably ten 
minutes. 





Dropped the main, drove to the marina, docked at the launch ramp, and called 
911 for the first guy at the request of the second one. I think he was very 
intoxicated or high on something. He was incoherent and unable to move his body 
well, and it wasn't from exhaustion. Plus his friends told me to get him first, 
so they must have known something. 





Anyway, couple lessons learned. First, my life sling line was not already tied 
off with the life sling in the bag. It should have been. Had to tell my 
daughter's friend to tie it off before throwing it out. Second, in all the 
chaos we forgot to give them blankets when we got them aboard. One went below 
and my daughter gave them all towels, but they were all at least very cold if 
not in the beginning stages of hypothermia. Third, don't expect the Chatfield 
State Park rangers to respond to a mayday hail on VHF 16 - I hailed as soon as 
I grasped what was happening, to no avail. 





It was lucky that I was in the right place at the right time. There were

Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
by moving inboard about 1.5cm.

Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I
And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG

The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.

The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
separated too, by what looks like the same amount.

Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
set in place.

Questions:
1. Is this a common problem?
2. How in the world would we fix this?
3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to
push the boat hard offshore?


-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew,

I have a similar looking issue on my 1978 C&C 34, Also have very slight
dimples in the hull at the same places.  I've never sensed movement, and
thought not as much as yours, I can see that my bulkheads are not set in as
deep as they may have been at the build.
Aft sides of the bulkheads are tabbed in and I see not signs of movement
there.
Heavy back-stay, and the odd big wave also make the boat creak and/or
groan, but so far I have not felt there was a danger.  My Chain-plates are
dry and solid.  There are a coule of spots on the deck that need attention,
but neither are much bigger than a dinner plate.
Interested to see comments from others as well.  My survey a few years ago
found nothing to fear in the hull or deck.

Chuck B
C&C 34 Elusive,
Somerset, MA

On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 5:15 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
> BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
> inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
> by moving inboard about 1.5cm.
>
> Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I
> And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG
>
> The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
> termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
> You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.
>
> The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
> hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
> that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
> separated too, by what looks like the same amount.
>
> Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
> before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
> set in place.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Is this a common problem?
> 2. How in the world would we fix this?
> 3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster
> to push the boat hard offshore?
>
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki & main trim

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I find that I only move the traveler to windward in fairly light air. But then, 
since I have the shoal draft version, I don't try to point to high.  If I can 
tack through 90deg in light to average wind I'm happy.  That's good enough for 
workin on the river.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL

  From: RANDY via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY 
 Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 3:48 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki
   
Gary and all 30-1 owners-
Regarding "how often is your traveler car centered" - well, how often are your 
traveler cars centered?  When close-hauled on your 30-1s, are you in the habit 
of pulling the car to windward a bit?  My main has leech telltales as well as 
telltales on both sides farther forward, and I've had a hard time getting them 
all to fly at once upwind, despite messing with the angle of attack via 
traveler for a given leech tension via sheet & vang.  I've yet to focus on 
ideal car position for other points of sail.  When running I've been dropping 
it way leeward, but on all other points of sail I've pretty much been leaving 
it centered.  At the dock I pull it all the way to port, because my dock is to 
starboard.  I'd be interested to know how you all set your traveler on various 
points of sail.
Cheers,
Randy
From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Gary Nylander" 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 12:32:39 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

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moved my traveler on my 30-1 from in front of the wheel (all of two feet long 
and nearly worthless) to across the companionway. I know, it is a pain to climb 
around when one has to go below, but how often is your traveler car centered? I 
thought about putting it over the companionway hood, but that was too far 
forward and would put too much strain on the boom. Now I get the widest 
possible location for the traveler and reasonable leverage for the mainsheet. I 
went to a 4:1/16:1 arrangement for the mainsheet – I have a regular 4:1 
mainsheet arrangement (looks original for the boat) but I took the last 
attachment for the 4:1 and hooked up a lighter weight 4:1 assembly to it 
(actually I used a rope boom vang kit). It has worked well for nearly 20 years. 
Gary NylanderMaryland From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki Hey guys,  After some research 
and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at photos of my boat, I've 
come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to shade my cockpit while 
under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a 1976 30mki with a single back 
stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently located at the back of the 
cockpit.   Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are 
all fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential 
to keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy sailors, I 
get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as that.  So, I 
need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top.   I was 
thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the companionway.  This 
is a leverage point not significantly different from the traveler location on a 
wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward will cause the load on the 
traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to be lower.  I might need 
extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet.  I will also need strong 
backing blocks under the traveler.  I may also have to create a new attachment 
point on the boom.   Has anyone done the research and calculations required to 
do this project?  Better yet... has anyone already done this? Thanks in advance 
for any help. Ryan
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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

A couple of questions.

1)  What is the height of your boom? Pre '77 the factory standard was
pretty low, under 6' from the cockpit sole to the underside of the boom.

2) When you say "moving the traveler to just in front of the companionway"
I assume you to the stern of the companionway. Are you looking at tight to
the cabin or as far astern as possible?

I have done the project twice, once with a Harken Midrange Boat sized track and
car, then upgraded to a Big Boat track and car. The main sheet is 4:1 with a
separate 4:1 fine adjuster. I installed two boom bails to spread the load and
have Harken 57mm Black Magic Hi load blocks on each.

That setup works well but may be overkill for cruising. I race Windburn,
sometimes solo, and run full main to 22 - 24 kts.

I can take pictures and send them to you, or if you are near Toronto you
can drop by and take a look.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


 
Hey guys, 
 
After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at 
photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible 
to shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a 
1976 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently 
located at the back of the cockpit. 
 
Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential 
to keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy 
sailors, I get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as 
that.  So, I need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini 
top. 
 
I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the 
companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from 
the traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward 
will cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is 
going to be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main 
sheet.  I will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may 
also have to create a new attachment point on the boom. 
 
Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project? 
Better yet... has anyone already done this? 
 
Thanks in advance for any help. 
 
Ryan 
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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Boom height is certainly a concern since regardless of the main sheet
placement the boom will still limit the height of the bimini.

Consider a hard top option.  Since the hard material supports itself you
have more versatility than with fabric.  You may be able to work with a
designer to develop a solution with your original main sheet arrangement.
I imagine a curved slot about 4 or 5 inches wide cut through the hardtop to
facilitate the main sheet.  It might be possible to do it as a single piece
with the slot or you might have to do it with 2 pieces.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 27, 2016 2:09 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at
> photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible
> to shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a
> 1976 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently
> located at the back of the cockpit.
>
> Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all
> fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential
> to keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy
> sailors, I get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as
> that.  So, I need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini
> top.
>
> I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the
> companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from
> the traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward
> will cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is
> going to be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main
> sheet.  I will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may
> also have to create a new attachment point on the boom.
>
> Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this
> project?  Better yet... has anyone already done this?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Ryan
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Moving my traveler 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary and Marek,

Gary, do you have any photos of your installation by any chance?  If so, I'd 
love to check out how it's rigged.  Does your sheet attach to the end of the 
boom in the same place?  Do you have a bimini with this setup?

Thanks again guys.  Always easy to find help here.

Ryan
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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Ryan,
This is a photo of my Bimini with standard traveler placement on my 30-1. I got 
the Bimini from Genco as well. Obviously, it doesn't shade the entire cockpit 
but it's enough for the helmsman and definitely makes a difference...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDZVpBUTQweTFqeTQ/view?usp=sharing

Cheers,
Aaron R.
Annapolis, MD
Admiral Maggie
79, 30-1
_
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:10 PM
Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Ryan Doyle mailto:ryanpdo...@gmail.com>>


Hey guys,

After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at photos 
of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to shade my 
cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a 1976 30mki with a 
single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently located at the back 
of the cockpit.

Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential to 
keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy sailors, I get 
to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as that.  So, I need 
advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top.

I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the companionway.  
This is a leverage point not significantly different from the traveler location 
on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward will cause the load on the 
traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to be lower.  I might need 
extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet.  I will also need strong 
backing blocks under the traveler.  I may also have to create a new attachment 
point on the boom.

Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?  
Better yet... has anyone already done this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan


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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey Aaron,

Thanks so much.  Yeah it looks like yours is in front of the wheel though, 
correct?  Mine is at the very very back of the cockpit.  Against the transom 
basically.  So the folks from Genco said that really kills any space for a 
Bimini.  Thanks for the recommendation for Genco though, they seem great.

Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 27, 2016, at 8:14 PM, Aaron Rouhi  wrote:
> 
> Ryan,
> This is a photo of my Bimini with standard traveler placement on my 30-1. I 
> got the Bimini from Genco as well. Obviously, it doesn't shade the entire 
> cockpit but it's enough for the helmsman and definitely makes a difference...
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDZVpBUTQweTFqeTQ/view?usp=sharing
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Annapolis, MD
> Admiral Maggie
> 79, 30-1
> _
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:10 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki
> To: 
> Cc: Ryan Doyle 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, 
> 
> After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at 
> photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible to 
> shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a 1976 
> 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently 
> located at the back of the cockpit.  
> 
> Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all 
> fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential to 
> keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy sailors, I 
> get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as that.  So, I 
> need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top.  
> 
> I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the 
> companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from the 
> traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward will 
> cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is going to 
> be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main sheet.  I 
> will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may also have to 
> create a new attachment point on the boom.  
> 
> Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?  
> Better yet... has anyone already done this?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> Ryan
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew



As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck – and for 
a reason.  C&C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash to 
windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well and good 
as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That said, the flex 
is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is attached by bolts 
through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was leaking a bit which 
we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to show a glue used to affix 
the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has failed but do not think it is 
of great concern as was not structural in the first place.  Overall, a 
noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so go sailing and have some fun





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)



Hey all -



Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino BC I 
noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer inspection I 
realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top by moving inboard 
about 1.5cm.



Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I

And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG



The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the 
termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in. You 
can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.



The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the hull, 
and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads that form 
the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also separated too, by 
what looks like the same amount.



Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since before we 
bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well set in place.



Questions:

1. Is this a common problem?

2. How in the world would we fix this?

3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to 
push the boat hard offshore?





--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA



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Re: Stus-List Touche' Gulfport Pensacola Race recap

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Nicely done Dennis. I seem to recall you do well most years.

One interesting observation. In our West Coast offshore races, we do not
allow racers to log in to the tracker. Obviously your SI's allowed that.

Ian Matthew
C&C 29-1. "Siento el Viento"
San Francisco Bay

On Sunday, June 26, 2016, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Looked like the typical Pensacola Race with the fan shutting off!! You
> looked awesome to the Gulfport sea bouy. That beat must have been fun to
> sail.
>
> Ed Levert
> Briar Patch
> C&C 34
> New Orleans
>
> On Sunday, June 26, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> In short, it was slow and hot.  I also had crew cancellations.  We raced
>> with the Admiral and 2 others.  In retrospect, sailing with 4 was
>> advantageous due to the light winds.
>>
>> We were 1st in non-spinnaker, about 1 hour 9 minutes corrected over
>> second place.
>>
>> We had really good upwind performance rounding the Gulfport sea buoy
>> 17th.  Not bad since 13 of the boats started 10 minutes before us and 2
>> that started with us rated faster.  One boat rated 3 seconds faster rounded
>> about 3 seconds ahead of us.  We had a very close crossing with that boat
>> earlier well down the course but north of Ship Island.  I think we just
>> didn't sail the current around the island as well as they did.
>>
>> For any who tracked us during the race and watched a lot of boats sail
>> past us after the sea buoy, we were sailing non-spinnaker.  The spin boats
>> all popped chutes at the buoy and took off.  We hung with a lot of them
>> well down the course.
>>
>> After the buoy, it was a nice reach for 40 miles to the Mobile sea buoy.
>> The evening was warm but beautiful with a 2/3 moon rising a bit after
>> 11pm.  It was hard to remember we were racing and not just out for a
>> pleasant night sail.  After the Mobile sea buoy, we had to sail wing on
>> wing for 40+ miles to the finish.  I hadn't brought the whisker pole so we
>> poled out the genoa with the spin pole.  Since the spin pole is quite a bit
>> shorter than the spin pole and the winds were so light, the genoa wouldn't
>> hold any decent shape.  We furled the genoa a bit to improve the shape.
>> Unusual technique but it helped.  The winds continued to lighten for the
>> rest of the race.  We saw speed through water as low as 1.5 knots for much
>> of the last 40 miles.  Fortunately there was a favorable current.
>> Reviewing the tracking data, the lowest was 1.97 with several observations
>> under 2.1 knots for the last 20 miles.  It was really HOT!
>>
>> We pretty much had our class tucked away prior after the 17 mile upwind
>> portion but strange things can happen during the night.  We could easily
>> see the closest non-pin boat to us because they had really bright running
>> lights.  It also helped that they had AIS and left it on.  We were able to
>> see if they gained any speed so we'd know they either had gotten fresh
>> breeze or had decided to drop out and motor.  :)
>>
>> One last observation.  Once we passed the Mobile sea buoy 60 miles down
>> course with 40 to go, we used a cell phone hot spot and a tablet to check
>> the race fleet.  That was cool.  We could see the fleet and that we were
>> well ahead in our class.  I like technology.
>>
>> Now back to cruising.  Next weekend, Fourth of July fireworks at
>> Pensacola Beach!!
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

This is good to hear! One other spot we noticed was where the top of the
engine compartment meets the bottom of the cockpit. Creaking happened there
when we were headed upwind as well. Is this another area with “natural”
flex for others?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA

On June 27, 2016 at 5:54:22 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List (
cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:

Hi Andrew



As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck – and
for a reason.  C&C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash
to windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well
and good as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That
said, the flex is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is
attached by bolts through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was
leaking a bit which we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to
show a glue used to affix the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has
failed but do not think it is of great concern as was not structural in the
first place.  Overall, a noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so
go sailing and have some fun





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
Means via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Andrew Means
*Subject:* Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)



Hey all -



Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
by moving inboard about 1.5cm.



Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I

And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG



The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.



The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
separated too, by what looks like the same amount.



Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
set in place.



Questions:

1. Is this a common problem?

2. How in the world would we fix this?

3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to
push the boat hard offshore?





-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ryan,
It is important to note that in Aaron's photo the bimini is above the
height of the boom so he has basically maximized the forward projection
regardless of main sheet placement.

Aaron,
How much head room do you think you have under the bimini?  Would it be
uncomfortable if you were to lower it enough to fit under the boom?

Ryan,
I tackled the shade issue a little differently by extending the dodger back
a considerable distance.  It is a hard top and allowed for a projection 6"
in front and 12" behind the frame.  I also have an arch that folds out to
further extended the projection an additional 12" aft just shy of the
mainsheet.  This folding part is canvas and is easily
assembled/disassembled.  A considerable amount of engineering went into
maximizing dodger height while not impeding on the boom.  I also have cabin
top winches who's swing radius needed consideration to clear the frame.
Now my wife, and often an additional guest, have room to sit or lay in the
companionway in the shade of the dodger.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwNze1nnSQ2-T1V1Yzc2cDBwU3c/view?usp=drivesdk

I also find that shade is not entirely elusive as long as one is willing to
get out of the cockpit.  Shade from the sails is almost always available
except for a few hours at the peak of the day.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 27, 2016 8:15 PM, "Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Ryan,
This is a photo of my Bimini with standard traveler placement on my 30-1. I
got the Bimini from Genco as well. Obviously, it doesn't shade the entire
cockpit but it's enough for the helmsman and definitely makes a
difference...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDZVpBUTQweTFqeTQ/view?usp=sharing

Cheers,
Aaron R.
Annapolis, MD
Admiral Maggie
79, 30-1
_
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 2:10 PM

Subject: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki
To: 
Cc: Ryan Doyle 


Hey guys,

After some research and having the helpful folks at Genco Marine look at
photos of my boat, I've come to the conclusion that it's nearly impossible
to shade my cockpit while under sail unless I move my traveler.  I have a
1976 30mki with a single back stay and a tiller.  The traveler is currently
located at the back of the cockpit.

Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear sunscreen!"... These are all
fantastic suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded cockpit is essential
to keeping the women in my life happy sailors.  When they are happy
sailors, I get to sail.  When they are not, I don't get to sail.  Simple as
that.  So, I need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini
top.

I was thinking about moving the traveler to just in front of the
companionway.  This is a leverage point not significantly different from
the traveler location on a wheel-steered 30mki.  I know moving it forward
will cause the load on the traveler to be much greater and my leverage is
going to be lower.  I might need extra blocks to gain leverage on the main
sheet.  I will also need strong backing blocks under the traveler.  I may
also have to create a new attachment point on the boom.

Has anyone done the research and calculations required to do this project?
Better yet... has anyone already done this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan



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Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Has anyone replaced the forward hatch, in particular on a C&C 29?

I have replaced the lens on mine and it is cracked again because the frame
is not true. I am thinking of replacing it with either a Lewmar Ocean
series 60 (flat base) or a medium profile 60. The latter has a flange base
which will require me to open up the opening a little.

I would love input from anyone who has experience doing this. I think the
medium profile would look better and still be strong enough to support my
bowman but the ocean series will be an easier job.

Thanks

Ian Matthew
C&C 39-1. "Siento el Viento"
San Francisco Bay


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Touche' Gulfport Pensacola Race recap

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 7:58 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Nicely done Dennis. I seem to recall you do well most years.
>
> One interesting observation. In our West Coast offshore races, we do not
> allow racers to log in to the tracker. Obviously your SI's allowed that.
>


Thanks, Ian.  Yes, Touche' does well.  From 1st to finish in 1972 to
multiple podium finishes since.  It's the boat, not me.  :)

The SI's and NOR are moot on whether racers can access the tracker site.
In our area, the rule seems to be if it's available to everyone, use it.

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Andrew,

I get a bit of squeaking between the top of that bulkhead and the 
underside of the deck when in any kind of sea.  A friend who grew up 
sailing on a 35-1  told me they used to put beeswax in that joint to 
quiet it down.  Not sure if you could anything in there, but might we be 
worth a try.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove NY



On 6/27/2016 5:15 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote:

Hey all -

Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to 
Tofino BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon 
closer inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the 
cabin top by moving inboard about 1.5cm.


Here's the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I
And here's the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG

The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by 
the termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they're 
nested in. You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued 
in.


The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to 
the hull, and there's no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The 
bulkheads that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and 
bathroom are also separated too, by what looks like the same amount.


Looking at previous photos it looks like they've been like this since 
before we bought the boat. They're not loose at all, they seem very 
well set in place.


Questions:
1. Is this a common problem?
2. How in the world would we fix this?
3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting 
disaster to push the boat hard offshore?


--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA


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Re: Stus-List Moving my traveler - 30mki

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan,

How many women are we talking about here? Have 
you considered a non-mechanical solution by simplifying a bit? :) 


Some like it hot...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:09 AM 27/06/2016, you wrote:

Hey guys,Â

After some research and having the helpful folks 
at Genco Marine look at photos of my boat, I've 
come to the conclusion that it's nearly 
impossible to shade my cockpit while under sail 
unless I move my traveler.  I have a 1976 30mki 
with a single back stay and a tiller.  The 
traveler is currently located at the back of the cockpit. Â


Before anyone yells "Buy a hat!" or "Wear 
sunscreen!"... These are all fantastic 
suggestions, but I'm beyond that.  A shaded 
cockpit is essential to keeping the women in my 
life happy sailors.  When they are happy 
sailors, I get to sail.  When they are not, I 
don't get to sail.  Simple as that.  So, I 
need advice on moving my traveler so I can install a bimini top. Â


I was thinking about moving the traveler to just 
in front of the companionway.  This is a 
leverage point not significantly different from 
the traveler location on a wheel-steered 
30mki.  I know moving it forward will cause the 
load on the traveler to be much greater and my 
leverage is going to be lower.  I might need 
extra blocks to gain leverage on the main 
sheet.  I will also need strong backing blocks 
under the traveler.  I may also have to create 
a new attachment point on the boom. Â


Has anyone done the research and calculations 
required to do this project?  Better yet... has anyone already done this?


Thanks in advance for any help.

Ryan
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of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[paul.hood via CnC-List]

Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I1) make huge elongated 
holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard into cockpit floor 
(7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)2) come up through pedestal instead 
and drill a hole in the backside of pedestal.  3) cut wire ends off and 
reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on either the guard or 
pedestal


Paul Hood81 C&C34
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