Re: Stus-List Max prop angle

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Double check the size.  I think mine is a 16" and I thought it was at 24°.
I also suggest getting a laser tach from Amazon.  The Yanmar tachs are
notorious for being about 200 rpm slow.  Mine was.

It sounds like you already know that the pitch can only be changed in 2°
increments and for every 2° you change rpm by about 10%.

What do you want to consider max RPM?  Mine had 3,
max instantaneous = 3600
Max 1 hour = 3400
Max continuous = 3200

It is best to run at 80% load as often as possible.  So for me I pitched
the prop to 3200 max and try to run at ~2500.

You'll also find that a dirty prop, shaft, and bottom can significantly
change the load and subsequently change the max achievable rpm.  If your
surveyor was basing his advice on your boat with a dirty bottom and prop
then you may not need to do anything other than get them cleaned.

Engine/fuel problems resulting in reduced power output can also lead one to
believe that the bottom is dirty or the prop is incorrectly pitched.

When I adjusted my pitch I simply changed it by 1 increment (2°), with
plans to do additional adjustments in future years if need be.  PM me if
you'd like any other guidance/advice/details.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

I have a 3 blade Max Prop, 17". The surveyor said to adjust propeller pitch
to allow the engine to reach top speed in gear.
The current settings are for 24 degrees.
I think I am supposed  to reduce the angle.
I do not know how far off the speed is, so I am thinking of starting at 22.
Anyone else with a 37/40 know their pitch or angle?

Brian Fry
La Neige
37/40 XL
Havre de Grace MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[wwadjourn]

Dennis,    Thanks for your response, all on point.  I always wondered why my 
halyards were reversed from every other boat I have ever owned.  The port 
rounding of marks explanation makes sense and is probably the correct answer 
since my boat was raced harder than I do in previous life.  Bill WalkerCnC 
36Pentwater, MiSent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

HI Andrew...Welcome to this list.  Everything you ever wanted to know is
located here.   Probably about anything.

 

My first thoughts about your boom and mast rigging are that it is very
complicated.  Try to keep it simple and you will sail safer regardless of
crew skill.  I'd take Dennis' ideas seriously; he's usually on his game for
this stuff.

 

My 38MKII has no lines on the boom .the outhaul goes inside as does the
reefing line, but you don't need a new boom to do that.  Both feed to the
mast; and you already have a block up under the mast that could become a
triple if that one has to stayrun them down to the deck and out through
another deck organizer on the other side..and back to the cockpit.

 

I'm not near my boat at this time, but I may have some pictures that I could
send as well.

 

We race the 38MKII, and when we cruise, it's almost singlehandable (that's a
new word)my crew would get lost with what you have on the boom sides.

 

More later,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

38MKIIC..'77

 

Did I miss it or do you not have a boom vang?

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Means via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 11:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

 

Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I'm doing any of this
incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V.
Safari, a C&C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my
friends. We sail the Safari-mostly casually-around the Puget Sound region.
You can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk

 

Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging and
I'm curious to see how other C&C 34 owners run lines aft to the cockpit.
Which lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you consider the
most important to have in the cockpit?

 

I've been looking through pictures of C&C 34s online (mostly found in
for-sale listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our
main sheet, vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul,
etc.. I think I have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom
(original to the boat) we probably aren't going to be able to have the
reefing lines run aft to the cockpit because they run externally on the port
side of the boom and a swinging boom would tigthen/loosen them if they were
run back to a turning block on the mast.

 

Priorities:

We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety
while reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can
run the lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with
internal reefing lines. Prove me wrong?

 

Here's the state of the union:

 

Boom, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg

The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is
currently cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to
have the topping lift  run aft. I've been told that the cam cleats are not
suitable for cleating reefing lines (and I agree, as they've slipped out
before).

 

Boom, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg

Outhaul, flattening reef.

 

Mast Base, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg

Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue
fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.

 

Mast Base, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg

Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard bag
on the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that aft
winch will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle
other lines.)

 

Cabintop cleats & winch (port) - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg

I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward
of the winch.

 

Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans,
etc. and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics of
your own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a C&C
34 or something of similar vintage!

 

Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C&C
owners!

 

Andrew

 

-- 
Andrew Means

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Andrew:

I have a 1981 C&C 34. It appears that the layout for lines led to the
cockpit as I will describe was the set up from the factory when the boat
was built. There are 4 winches on the aft end of the cabin top, 2 on each
side of the companionway. I admit to having the original Schaeffer sheet
stoppers still in place. On the port side are two spinnaker halyards with
the outside winch dedicated to these halyards. The spinnaker pole topping
lift also is led to a stopper on the port side. I have led the main halyard
to the inside port winch and removed the small centerline winch aft of the
base of the mast. It snagged the soft vang. The starboard inside winch is
self tailing and dedicated to the main sheet. The outside starboard winch
is dedicated to the 2 jib halyards. Spinnaker pole downhaul is led to a
stopper on the starboard cabin top. In addition, there are 2 small winches
mounted mid boom for reefing, boom topping lift, and the main outhaul.
Someone must leave the cockpit to tend to the clew reefing line and tack
hook.

Ed L.
Briar Patch
C&C 34
New Orleans, La.



On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 10:11 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I’m doing any of this
> incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V.
> Safari, a C&C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my
> friends. We sail the Safari—mostly casually—around the Puget Sound region.
> You can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk
>
> Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging
> and I'm curious to see how other C&C 34 owners run lines aft to the
> cockpit. Which lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you
> consider the most important to have in the cockpit?
>
> I've been looking through pictures of C&C 34s online (mostly found in
> for-sale listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our
> main sheet, vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul,
> etc.. I think I have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom
> (original to the boat) we probably aren't going to be able to have the
> reefing lines run aft to the cockpit because they run externally on the
> port side of the boom and a swinging boom would tigthen/loosen them if they
> were run back to a turning block on the mast.
>
> *Priorities:*
> We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety
> while reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can
> run the lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with
> internal reefing lines. Prove me wrong?
>
> Here's the state of the union:
>
> *Boom, Port Side - *http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg
> The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is
> currently cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to
> have the topping lift  run aft. I’ve been told that the cam cleats are not
> suitable for cleating reefing lines (and I agree, as they’ve slipped out
> before).
>
> *Boom, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg
> Outhaul, flattening reef.
>
> *Mast Base, Port Side* - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg
> Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue
> fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.
>
> *Mast Base, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg
> Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard
> bag on the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that
> aft winch will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle
> other lines.)
>
> *Cabintop cleats & winch (port)* - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg
> I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward
> of the winch.
>
> Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans,
> etc. and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics
> of your own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a
> C&C 34 or something of similar vintage!
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C&C
> owners!
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Go to CNC Photo album; then click on resources, then click brochures, then 
click on the original brochures for the 34, there are usually several to look 
at...

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 




This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I just did a cabin top re-configuration a couple weeks ago.  All the
hardware was removed and re-installed.  Gave me a clean slate to work with.

Some subtle but important considerations for locating rope clutches.

Give a lot of thought to locating the rope clutches with regard to the
winches.  You don't want a lot of angle on the lines particularly if they
are high load lines like spin and jib halyards.

That is, if you are placing a triple clutch, line the center clutch with
the STARBOARD side of the winch.  Don't center the clutch on the winch.
The lines wrap around the starboard side.  Subtle but important tip.

Now, consider if two of the three lines are high load and one is not, say a
pole topping, then locate the high load lines in the two starboard clutches
for better leads to the winch.

To lessen the lead angle from clutch to winch, move the clutch forward away
from the winch.  But...make sure it's not so far forward that the crew
can't reach it easily.

Make sure the handle swing is unobstructed.  That is, if there's a cabin
top traveler, don't locate the clutch so close to it that it won't fully
open or that the location creates a trap for fingers or hands against the
traveler.

Dennis C.

> --
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Another alternative to consider is something like my 36 XL/kcb was rigged by 
the factory or the Harve de Grace yard--not sure which.
 
4 of the relatively low-load control lines rigged on Water Phantom (Cunningham, 
vang, topping lift and outhaul) can be run to cam-cleats like the Harken 150 
which can be mounted on the hatch cover assembly. This reduces the need for 
using winches or rope clutches on any of them and puts them in the control of 
the pit for racing.

Of course, it does require some additional purchase on these lines (except for 
the topping lift) but this purchase can be rigged forward of these cleats (mast 
for Cunningham, inside boom for outhaul). Most vangs already have plenty of 
purchase built in.

This reduced the need for my cabin top winches so that I can do with only 2 (of 
the original 4) for the halyards (main, jib, spin port and starboard and the 
all important center board pennant-which has a 3-1 purchase built in.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb


 
cenel...@aol.com

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Charlie, I agree.  I also have two Spinlock Cam Cleats inboard of my rope
clutches for the Cunningham and outhaul, two low load lines.

http://www.apsltd.com/hardware/cleats-clutches/cam-cleats-accessories/spinlock-cam-cleats-accessories.html

These are really nice but one tip.  If they aren't very near the bulkhead,
you need to elevate them a bit.  The line needs to be pulled slightly
downward to cleat it.  If they are too far forward, you can't get the
downward angle to get them to cleat.  Mine are on StarBoard pads.

Also, I use one for my clew reefing line.  It's on the side of the boom.
Very easy to yank the reefing line and cleat it.  Also very easy to shake
out the reef.

As I said in an earlier post, I don't like these for a vang.  They
sometimes don't release quickly under load and can re-cleat when you don't
want.  Otherwise, I like them.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:52 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another alternative to consider is something like my 36 XL/kcb was rigged
> by the factory or the Harve de Grace yard--not sure which.
>
> 4 of the relatively low-load control lines rigged on Water Phantom
> (Cunningham, vang, topping lift and outhaul) can be run to cam-cleats like
> the Harken 150 which can be mounted on the hatch cover assembly. This
> reduces the need for using winches or rope clutches on any of them and puts
> them in the control of the pit for racing.
>
> Of course, it does require some additional purchase on these lines (except
> for the topping lift) but this purchase can be rigged forward of these
> cleats (mast for Cunningham, inside boom for outhaul). Most vangs already
> have plenty of purchase built in.
>
> This reduced the need for my cabin top winches so that I can do with only
> 2 (of the original 4) for the halyards (main, jib, spin port and starboard
> and the all important center board pennant-which has a 3-1 purchase built
> in.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm always available by email.  Sometimes in person.  :)

I dissolved my marine repair LLC in December to focus on long postponed
tasks on Touche' and some quality sailing time.  I've told my long term
clients I now give advice and do very small jobs for beer and lunch.

Been a while since I wandered the Chesapeake but there's always a
possibility.  :)

Helped a friend install an air conditioner in a 38 in Charleston a few
years ago.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Timely input. Can I hire you as a consultant? :-)
>
> I’ll be doing planning for a clean-sheet restructuring of the cabin top
> winches and lines very soon so that I can move on to painting the decks. I
> have pondered various layouts and am always somewhat dissatisfied. I’d
> actually like to reduce the number of lines led aft. Go figure...
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Do-it-yourself Projects

[Stu via CnC-List]

Lately, I have seeing lots of do-it-yourself projects explained in detail in 
the list emails.  But, pictures are worth a thousands words.

So, if you want to show what you did and not have to explain it in detail  
send me your pictures, and a description of each , I will put it into a web 
page and post it on the Photo Album.

Stu___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Timely input. Can I hire you as a consultant? :-)

I’ll be doing planning for a clean-sheet restructuring of the cabin top winches 
and lines very soon so that I can move on to painting the decks. I have 
pondered various layouts and am always somewhat dissatisfied. I’d actually like 
to reduce the number of lines led aft. Go figure...

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 11:27 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just did a cabin top re-configuration a couple weeks ago.  All the hardware 
> was removed and re-installed.  Gave me a clean slate to work with.
> 
> Some subtle but important considerations for locating rope clutches.
> 
> Give a lot of thought to locating the rope clutches with regard to the 
> winches.  You don't want a lot of angle on the lines particularly if they are 
> high load lines like spin and jib halyards.
> 
> That is, if you are placing a triple clutch, line the center clutch with the 
> STARBOARD side of the winch.  Don't center the clutch on the winch.  The 
> lines wrap around the starboard side.  Subtle but important tip.
> 
> Now, consider if two of the three lines are high load and one is not, say a 
> pole topping, then locate the high load lines in the two starboard clutches 
> for better leads to the winch.
> 
> To lessen the lead angle from clutch to winch, move the clutch forward away 
> from the winch.  But...make sure it's not so far forward that the crew can't 
> reach it easily.
> 
> Make sure the handle swing is unobstructed.  That is, if there's a cabin top 
> traveler, don't locate the clutch so close to it that it won't fully open or 
> that the location creates a trap for fingers or hands against the traveler.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Harken etc. bearing replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have replaced the Torlon bearings in my Harken traveller this winter and 
found them to be quite expensive (Defender).  I then found that the bearings in 
my genoa car lead were completely trashed.  In searching for new bearings, I 
found a company that makes every size of Torlon bearings.  The cost is 
substantially less than marine outfitters charge (at least less than half 
depending on the number ordered), but they have a minimum $100 order and at 
this point I don’t need that much.  I would be happy to buy more bearings than 
I need and distribute them to others at cost if anyone else is interested in 
rebuilding their cars, leads, etc.  If you let me know what you need (size and 
number) I will see what a bulk order will cost and let you know.  There is a 
difficult to locate guide to Harken bearings I found, so I can look up those if 
you don’t know the sizes (I will send this to Stu for the photo album).  My 
traveller, genoa car and genoa lead all took different sized bearings.  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Hey Andrew,

I'm in Seattle, work near the Fremont Bridge, and frequently bike by Lake
Union on my way home. If we can find a time I'd be happy to drop by
sometime - might be easier to get some ideas in person, and there's a lot
to cover.

Looks like you're at Affinity, just past Fremont Brewing, which I walk by
almost every afternoon to get in a post-lunch walk (and window shop the
boats at the Pacific Seacraft brokerage).

External reef lines on the boom shouldn't be a problem - I have that, they
run down to a block on the mast collar. If centered, there shouldn't be
much stretch as the boom moves out.

-Patrick
C&C LF38

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:

> Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I’m doing any of this
> incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V.
> Safari, a C&C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my
> friends. We sail the Safari—mostly casually—around the Puget Sound region.
> You can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk
>
> Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging
> and I'm curious to see how other C&C 34 owners run lines aft to the
> cockpit. Which lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you
> consider the most important to have in the cockpit?
>
> I've been looking through pictures of C&C 34s online (mostly found in
> for-sale listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our
> main sheet, vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul,
> etc.. I think I have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom
> (original to the boat) we probably aren't going to be able to have the
> reefing lines run aft to the cockpit because they run externally on the
> port side of the boom and a swinging boom would tigthen/loosen them if they
> were run back to a turning block on the mast.
>
> *Priorities:*
> We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety
> while reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can
> run the lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with
> internal reefing lines. Prove me wrong?
>
> Here's the state of the union:
>
> *Boom, Port Side - *http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg
> The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is
> currently cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to
> have the topping lift  run aft. I’ve been told that the cam cleats are not
> suitable for cleating reefing lines (and I agree, as they’ve slipped out
> before).
>
> *Boom, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg
> Outhaul, flattening reef.
>
> *Mast Base, Port Side* - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg
> Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue
> fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.
>
> *Mast Base, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg
> Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard
> bag on the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that
> aft winch will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle
> other lines.)
>
> *Cabintop cleats & winch (port)* - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg
> I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward
> of the winch.
>
> Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans,
> etc. and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics
> of your own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a
> C&C 34 or something of similar vintage!
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C&C
> owners!
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C&C 34

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey Patrick

That would be awesome; so much of this stuff is definitely better thinking it 
out in person and with the materials at hand.

What’s your schedule tomorrow or next week? I’m kind of hobbled right now after 
a bike wreck (rear-ended while waiting to turn left onto Wallingford from 34th) 
so I’ll probably be working from home tomorrow and could walk down to the boat 
from my place (36th and Wallingford). Next week I’m hoping to be at the office 
but maybe we could meet after work or something. 

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
Sent with Airmail

On March 24, 2016 at 11:49:13 AM, Patrick Davin (jda...@gmail.com) wrote:

Hey Andrew, 

I'm in Seattle, work near the Fremont Bridge, and frequently bike by Lake Union 
on my way home. If we can find a time I'd be happy to drop by sometime - might 
be easier to get some ideas in person, and there's a lot to cover. 

Looks like you're at Affinity, just past Fremont Brewing, which I walk by 
almost every afternoon to get in a post-lunch walk (and window shop the boats 
at the Pacific Seacraft brokerage).

External reef lines on the boom shouldn't be a problem - I have that, they run 
down to a block on the mast collar. If centered, there shouldn't be much 
stretch as the boom moves out.

-Patrick
C&C LF38

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:
Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I’m doing any of this 
incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V. 
Safari, a C&C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my 
friends. We sail the Safari—mostly casually—around the Puget Sound region. You 
can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk

Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging and 
I'm curious to see how other C&C 34 owners run lines aft to the cockpit. Which 
lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you consider the most 
important to have in the cockpit?

I've been looking through pictures of C&C 34s online (mostly found in for-sale 
listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our main sheet, 
vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul, etc.. I think I 
have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom (original to the boat) we 
probably aren't going to be able to have the reefing lines run aft to the 
cockpit because they run externally on the port side of the boom and a swinging 
boom would tigthen/loosen them if they were run back to a turning block on the 
mast.

Priorities:
We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety while 
reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can run the 
lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with internal reefing 
lines. Prove me wrong?

Here's the state of the union:

Boom, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg
The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is currently 
cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to have the topping 
lift  run aft. I’ve been told that the cam cleats are not suitable for cleating 
reefing lines (and I agree, as they’ve slipped out before).

Boom, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg
Outhaul, flattening reef.

Mast Base, Port Side - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg
Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue 
fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.

Mast Base, Starboard Side - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg
Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard bag on 
the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that aft winch 
will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle other lines.)

Cabintop cleats & winch (port) - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg
I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward of 
the winch.

Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans, etc. 
and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics of your 
own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a C&C 34 or 
something of similar vintage!

Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C&C owners!

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 I find myself in need of a replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know 
(or at least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart keys...anyone 
know of an inexpensive source?

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

___


This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I may have one floating around in the boat. I gave up – have taken the 
‘ignition’ switch out and replaced it with a push/pull switch at great cost 
savings after finding all the Yanmar keys are the same. I figure having a key 
outside is not important when the master switch is down below. Can’t run the 
starter without electricity.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 5:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

 

I find myself in need of a replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or 
at least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart keys...anyone know 
of an inexpensive source?

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

___


This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I also did what Gary did, especially after doing surgery on the Yanmar panel 
when a key broke off inside on the previous Enterprise. It’s an easy install. 

The need for a key outdoors amuses me. If they can break into your boat to get 
the power on, they certainly can get to the back of the panel and connect the 
two wires. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On Mar 24, 2016, at 5:31 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I may have one floating around in the boat. I gave up – have taken the 
> ‘ignition’ switch out and replaced it with a push/pull switch at great cost 
> savings after finding all the Yanmar keys are the same. I figure having a key 
> outside is not important when the master switch is down below. Can’t run the 
> starter without electricity.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Richard N. Bush via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 5:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Richard N. Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source
>  
> I find myself in need of a replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know 
> (or at least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart keys...anyone 
> know of an inexpensive source?
>  
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> … when a key broke off inside on the previous Enterprise.

>The need for a key outdoors amuses me. If they can break into your boat to get 
>the power on, they certainly can get to the back of the panel and connect the 
>two wires.

Back in the early 80’s I was asked by the local North Sails loft manager to 
help train a new customer’s foredeck crew.  The local low key race started from 
Port Madison, Bainbridge Island and ran south towards Blakely Rocks.  The 
boat’s new owner seemed very sure of his navigation when I asked if his upwind, 
out of the current course towards the Bainbridge Island shore included enough 
depth for his draft.  Shortly after this conversation I mentioned to the 
foredeck trainee “I’d sit down if I were you” as a subtle warning that an 
abrupt stop was imminent.  In the process of that particular and sudden 
grounding, the owner’s leg slide forward and broke the ignition key off in his 
brand new engine panel.

Being that: I was a volunteer advisor, not part of the regular crew; the boat 
was firmly aground in soft mud; the tide was falling and 6 hours from rising; 
and a local home owner rowed out and asked if he could assist, I quickly said 
“I would love a ride to shore”.

I quickly demonstrated how easy it was to hot wire his brand new boat with a 
key broken off in the ignition switch, grabbed my duffel bag and, with the 
owner’s reluctant permission abandoned ship. The row ashore was quite short but 
I was a long way from the town of Winslow where the WA State ferry system’s 
best would transport me back to Seattle where my car was parked.  Fortunately 
back in the 80’s, on Bainbridge Island seeing a hitchhiking sailor was not 
uncommon.  I got a quick lift easily making the next ferry sailing and was 
sitting at the Seattle Yacht Club bar with a fresh sea story in hand for my 
day’s work.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 2:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

I also did what Gary did, especially after doing surgery on the Yanmar panel 
when a key broke off inside on the previous Enterprise. It’s an easy install.

The need for a key outdoors amuses me. If they can break into your boat to get 
the power on, they certainly can get to the back of the panel and connect the 
two wires.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

flat blade screwdriver or any key that fit.  (there are no pins inside, just a 
slot)

Leslie.

On Thu, 3/24/16, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Richard N. Bush" 
 Date: Thursday, March 24, 2016, 2:08 PM
 
 
 
  I find myself in need of a
 replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or at
 least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart
 keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard
 
 
 
 
 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 
 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 
 
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 
 
 502-584-7255
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
 costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you like what we do,
 please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep.  Most of the J30 owners in my marina use a screwdriver.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 5:20 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> flat blade screwdriver or any key that fit.  (there are no pins inside,
> just a slot)
>
> Leslie.
> 
> On Thu, 3/24/16, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source
>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  Cc: "Richard N. Bush" 
>  Date: Thursday, March 24, 2016, 2:08 PM
>
>
>
>   I find myself in need of a
>  replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or at
>  least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart
>  keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Richard
>
>
>
>
>  1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>
>
>  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
>
>  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>
>
>  502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  ___
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  This list is supported by the generous donations of our
>  members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
>  costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
>  appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>
>  ___
>
>  This list is supported by the
>  generous donations of our members. If you like what we do,
>  please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>  Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I use the key for one of my lazarette locks to start my engine.  If you
don't already have one the right size, and would prefer a key to a
screwdriver, I'm sure you can get a generic blank key that will work for
cheap at a hardware store.

Sam
1984 C&C 35-3
SF

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep.  Most of the J30 owners in my marina use a screwdriver.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 5:20 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> flat blade screwdriver or any key that fit.  (there are no pins inside,
>> just a slot)
>>
>> Leslie.
>> 
>> On Thu, 3/24/16, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source
>>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>  Cc: "Richard N. Bush" 
>>  Date: Thursday, March 24, 2016, 2:08 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>   I find myself in need of a
>>  replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or at
>>  least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart
>>  keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  Richard
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>>
>>
>>  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>
>>
>>  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>>
>>
>>  502-584-7255
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  ___
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  This list is supported by the generous donations of our
>>  members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
>>  costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
>>  appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>>
>>  ___
>>
>>  This list is supported by the
>>  generous donations of our members. If you like what we do,
>>  please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>  Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Helpful Vancouver Surveyors

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I’m looking for a few good, through surveyor recommendations in the Vancouver 
area.  I am not looking for a "doctor death”, but want a few good 
recommendations of folks that can explain things to a realistic owner, and not 
miss any 500$ issues.  In my experience the ability to actually explain things, 
trumps engineer heads "who know it all”.  If you have something bad to say, 
don’t put it on the list. . .

Thanks for your help, Lee
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

Home Depot - Slot screw driver #2 works just fine, leatherman also works 
fine. Otherwise go to a local automotive store and get a replacement 
ingnition set to wire in.
Yanmar blanks are $60ish and you can buy 10 new ignition switches for 
the same price.


My yanmar switch went a while ago and just replaced it with a keyed 
on/off for a lawn tractor.  As I recall, I was able to get one the same 
size and shape
for $5.95.  Yes it isn't marine grade...but I can get 10 of them before 
I get close to a key or switch replacement from Yanmar.


Food for thought.


--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax


On 3/24/2016 6:08 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:
I find myself in need of a replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I 
know (or at least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart 
keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[johnrmcl via CnC-List]

I have an '86 29-2 that I can start with most any object  that will fit into 
the slot.


Sent on a Samsung Galaxy S®4

 Original message 
From: Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List  
Date: 03/24/2016  8:40 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeffrey Nelson  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source 


Home Depot - Slot screw driver #2 works just fine, leatherman also
works fine. Otherwise go to a local automotive store and get a
replacement ingnition set to wire in.

Yanmar blanks are $60ish and you can buy 10 new ignition switches
for the same price.



My yanmar switch went a while ago and just replaced it with a keyed
on/off for a lawn tractor.  As I recall, I was able to get one the
same size and shape

for $5.95.  Yes it isn't marine grade...but I can get 10 of them
before I get close to a key or switch replacement from Yanmar.



Food for thought. 





-- 

  Cheers,

    Jeff Nelson

    Muir Caileag

    C&C 30

    Armdale Y.C.

    Halifax




On 3/24/2016 6:08 PM, Richard N. Bush
  via CnC-List wrote:



 I find myself in need of a replacement key
for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or at least I think) they
are interchangeable, like golf cart keys...anyone know of an
inexpensive source?


 



Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

  

  

  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

  502-584-7255
  
 


___


  

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our
  members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
  costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


  
  

  
  

  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!






  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List spring cleaning

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am getting ready to clean the deck of my C&C.   Beyond the normal winter
smegma of jet exhaust and green slime, this year I have stains from bottom
paint dust from the sanding of bottoms in the boat yard.   The deck is gel
coat and the hull is painted with Imron.  Looking for suggestions for some
magic cleaning solution to clean the deck.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List spring cleaning

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My new favorite deck cleaner is Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach (repeat:
Foaming Bleach, not bathroom or kitchen cleaner).  It's awesome at removing
that green or black mildew.

Not sure how it will work on yard dust.  I'd try to minimize contact with
paint.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 8:59 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am getting ready to clean the deck of my C&C.   Beyond the normal winter
> smegma of jet exhaust and green slime, this year I have stains from bottom
> paint dust from the sanding of bottoms in the boat yard.   The deck is gel
> coat and the hull is painted with Imron.  Looking for suggestions for some
> magic cleaning solution to clean the deck.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or.
>
> _
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running linesaft to cockpit on C&C 34 - locating rope clutches

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all - 

Thanks so much for all your insight! If anyone has time and inclination I’d 
love to see any examples of your running rigging, especially anything where 
you’re running reefing lines or topping lifts from the boom back to the mast 
and aft to the cockpit.

Charlie I like your idea of running low-load lines to the hatch cover assembly, 
I’ll look into that feasibility.

Dennis thanks for the insight about winch placement, we’re definitely going to 
be taking that into consideration.

Whomever noticed was right, we currently don’t have a vang setup. It’s on the 
list. 
-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari
Seattle, WA

On March 24, 2016 at 9:08:40 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
wrote:

Charlie, I agree.  I also have two Spinlock Cam Cleats inboard of my rope 
clutches for the Cunningham and outhaul, two low load lines.

http://www.apsltd.com/hardware/cleats-clutches/cam-cleats-accessories/spinlock-cam-cleats-accessories.html

These are really nice but one tip.  If they aren't very near the bulkhead, you 
need to elevate them a bit.  The line needs to be pulled slightly downward to 
cleat it.  If they are too far forward, you can't get the downward angle to get 
them to cleat.  Mine are on StarBoard pads.

Also, I use one for my clew reefing line.  It's on the side of the boom.  Very 
easy to yank the reefing line and cleat it.  Also very easy to shake out the 
reef.

As I said in an earlier post, I don't like these for a vang.  They sometimes 
don't release quickly under load and can re-cleat when you don't want.  
Otherwise, I like them.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:52 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Another alternative to consider is something like my 36 XL/kcb was rigged by 
the factory or the Harve de Grace yard--not sure which.
 
4 of the relatively low-load control lines rigged on Water Phantom (Cunningham, 
vang, topping lift and outhaul) can be run to cam-cleats like the Harken 150 
which can be mounted on the hatch cover assembly. This reduces the need for 
using winches or rope clutches on any of them and puts them in the control of 
the pit for racing.
 
Of course, it does require some additional purchase on these lines (except for 
the topping lift) but this purchase can be rigged forward of these cleats (mast 
for Cunningham, inside boom for outhaul). Most vangs already have plenty of 
purchase built in.
 
This reduced the need for my cabin top winches so that I can do with only 2 (of 
the original 4) for the halyards (main, jib, spin port and starboard and the 
all important center board pennant-which has a 3-1 purchase built in.
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
 
 
 
cenel...@aol.com
 
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___  

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!  
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!