Stus-List Contacting Mark Janda?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A few weeks ago, about 4 listers were trying to contact Mark Janda about
some items for a 38 mk2 that he had listed on the Photo Album classifieds.
Someone on the list knew Mark and offered to pass along our names. Stu also
fixed the contact information on the classified ads. A week ago I emailed
Mark about the items I was interested in buying. So far, no response.

 

Has anyone heard anything from Mark Janda recently?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine 
EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to do 
the install. 

Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the boat 
drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does anyone know if 
it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin GPSMap2006C to the “brain” 
of the autopilot so that they can talk to each other? I’d love to be able to 
plug in a route and have the autopilot change heading once a waypoint is 
reached. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

My Raymarine SPX-5 wheel pilot has a follow-route option.  It gets that
route via NMEA 1083 from my Garmin plotter.  If that can do it, you can!
One proviso is that I have to hit "acknowledge" at each waypoint arrival on
the pilot controller in order for it to continue on to the next one.  The
only connection I had to make was the NMEA output on my plotter to the
input on a Seatalk instrument with that feature (I think the pilot
controller did, but I used an ST60+ multi-display because it was closer).

Tim

Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

Sirenia
Tayana 48
Portsmouth, RI

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 10:51 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine
> EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to
> do the install.
>
> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Edd,

Looks like the plotter is NMEA 0183 and the AP is NMEA 2000.  You'll need
an Actisense converter to translate the info - about $200.  Or get an early
55th bDay present of a new plotter!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 11:18 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Edd,
>
> My Raymarine SPX-5 wheel pilot has a follow-route option.  It gets that
> route via NMEA 1083 from my Garmin plotter.  If that can do it, you can!
> One proviso is that I have to hit "acknowledge" at each waypoint arrival on
> the pilot controller in order for it to continue on to the next one.  The
> only connection I had to make was the NMEA output on my plotter to the
> input on a Seatalk instrument with that feature (I think the pilot
> controller did, but I used an ST60+ multi-display because it was closer).
>
> Tim
>
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
> Sirenia
> Tayana 48
> Portsmouth, RI
>
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 10:51 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a
>> Raymarine EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until
>> Spring to do the install.
>>
>> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
>> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
>> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
>> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
>> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
>> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

>From what I know, if your chartplotter talks NMEA (I think 0183 is enough, but 
>2000 is probably better), you can do what you want. But...

 

There is a lot of information on connecting a chartplotter to the autopilot and 
many people suggest not doing that. There should be a human interface between 
the chartplotter and the autopilot. This is not because it is technically 
impossible or difficult, but mainly because of the safety reasons.

 

Just a thought...

 

Marek

C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: November-11-15 10:52
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

 

Listers,

 

For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine 
EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to do 
the install. 

 

Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the boat 
drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does anyone know if 
it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin GPSMap2006C to the “brain” 
of the autopilot so that they can talk to each other? I’d love to be able to 
plug in a route and have the autopilot change heading once a waypoint is 
reached. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 











 






 

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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Marek,

Both a plotter and AP are blind.  You are correct that there is a risk.
However, when they are connected the plotter can correct fro current and
drift while you are distracted.  If you maintain the same level of
vigilence, I don't see much risk in connecting the two.
my 2 cents.

Joel

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 11:34 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd,
>
>
>
> From what I know, if your chartplotter talks NMEA (I think 0183 is enough,
> but 2000 is probably better), you can do what you want. But...
>
>
>
> There is a lot of information on connecting a chartplotter to the
> autopilot and many people suggest not doing that. There should be a human
> interface between the chartplotter and the autopilot. This is not because
> it is technically impossible or difficult, but mainly because of the safety
> reasons.
>
>
>
> Just a thought...
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay via CnC-List
> *Sent:* November-11-15 10:52
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay
> *Subject:* Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine
> EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to
> do the install.
>
>
>
> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,
 I used to do that all the time with my ComNav autopilot.  I would be
very surprised if the new Raymarine was unable to do it also.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 10:51 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine
> EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to
> do the install.
>
> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Marek,

Safety is always a concern. Truth is, I’d never use it inside of bays or 
channels. It’s more for long (3+ hours) out in the middle of the Sound. As 
someone mentioned, currents or waves might nudge the boat off course — the 
plotter would then just the bearing and I’d like the autopilot to adjust as 
well. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On Nov 11, 2015, at 11:34 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
>  
> From what I know, if your chartplotter talks NMEA (I think 0183 is enough, 
> but 2000 is probably better), you can do what you want. But...
>  
> There is a lot of information on connecting a chartplotter to the autopilot 
> and many people suggest not doing that. There should be a human interface 
> between the chartplotter and the autopilot. This is not because it is 
> technically impossible or difficult, but mainly because of the safety reasons.
>  
> Just a thought...
>  
> Marek
> C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I strongly suspect this is a safety feature.  If someone was on the bow
doing the "Titanic" thing when a 90 degree course change happened
automatically, they might get thrown off the boat.

Generally, the "acknowledge" depends on the arrival alarm function in the
navigator.  My 15 year old Simrad WP20 turns off "navigate" mode when the
navigator (GPS) sends a code that the vessel has arrived within a set
distance of the waypoint.  When the autosteerer receives the arrival alarm,
it switches to "course" mode and tracks the last course it was navigating
to.  I keep my arrival alarm distance set at 0.10 nm.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 10:18 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Edd,
>
> My Raymarine SPX-5 wheel pilot has a follow-route option.  It gets that
> route via NMEA 1083 from my Garmin plotter.  If that can do it, you can!
> One proviso is that I have to hit "acknowledge" at each waypoint arrival on
> the pilot controller in order for it to continue on to the next one.
> Tim
>
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

There is usually a way to "Goto waypoint" I did that in the early 2000's
with my Garmin 262 and ST4000 autopilot. The autopilot (or GPS, I don't
remeber) will ask for confirmation before switching to  now waypoint.

Ever since then, I always had GPS and Autopilots on my boats, but have
never bothered to interface them. The "Go to waypoint" feature is useful
though when you have a lot of cross current, although the "look ahead"
arrow on the GPS compensates for that a bit.

For me, the best little gizmo to add to an autopilot is a little wireless
remote. In my area where there are many lobster pots, that is the best
gadget to have. That way, you can steer from anywhere on the boat.

So the answer to the OP question:,
Most likely Yes. They all have NEMA connectivity and should be able to talk
to each other.

---
Ahmet
*"S/V Waterdancer"* 1990 Irwin 43 CC
"Tabasco" 1973 C&C 25
Winthrop Yacht Club, Winthrop, MA / USA
---
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I feel like it is probably possible.  My Simrad J300X and AP22 will
naturally steer the boat to a magnetic course.   In addition I've
configured it to talk to my Garmin 182c for GPS navigation.  This provides
compensation for set and drift.  Even better is that I have it also
configured to talk to my Datamarine NavLink Offshore 3500 instrument
package.  This allows for the autopilot to receive wind information.
Particularly apparent wind angle, so I can set the boat to steer to the
wind.  IT SAILS ITSELF!  This also makes singlehanding easy and
single-handed tacking a breeze.

To summarize it has three modes of steering.  Magnetic, GPS, and Wind.  It
is all old enough gear that it works exclusively on NMEA 0183.

The one mode I use least?  GPS

I guess I also use the engine least too.  The magnetic steering is used
regularly in all types of situations, instead of the wheel lock, when I
need to leave the helm for a moment.  It's fast and easy to set.  Once the
sails are up I can switch to steering by the wind.  If the wind is switchy
or too low then I typically switch back to magnetic steering.

Bear in mind that as others have said, none of this really allows you to
abandon you post as helmsman.  Vigilance is still required.  But it may
allow time to brew coffee or cook/make a quick meal, get a jacket from
below, use the head, cast a fishing line, or real in that catch.  For long
offshore passages taking naps is possible but AIS or RADAR alarms are a
must.

All of that being said, the Raymarine Chartplotters integrate really nice
because they have an autopilot controller built in.  As discussed in other
posts you'll still want an autopilot control in front of the wheel where it
can be accessed for single-handed tacking.
Additionally, Raymarine has their smartphone apps which allow you to use
your phone or tablet to control the chartplotter.  The new chartplotters
also provide a radar control and overlay so you can really pull all the
information AND control to the one place where it is most useful.  This is
why I would (as you said) go the extra step.  Not to punch in a course and
tell it to "Engage".

Good luck,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 11, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine
> EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to
> do the install.
>
> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Wouldn't it be nice if we could overlay water current data (like from the gulf 
stream) and weather data too?

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Nov 11, 2015, at 1:00 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I feel like it is probably possible.  My Simrad J300X and AP22 will naturally 
> steer the boat to a magnetic course.   In addition I've configured it to talk 
> to my Garmin 182c for GPS navigation.  This provides compensation for set and 
> drift.  Even better is that I have it also configured to talk to my 
> Datamarine NavLink Offshore 3500 instrument package.  This allows for the 
> autopilot to receive wind information.  Particularly apparent wind angle, so 
> I can set the boat to steer to the wind.  IT SAILS ITSELF!  This also makes 
> singlehanding easy and single-handed tacking a breeze.
> 
> To summarize it has three modes of steering.  Magnetic, GPS, and Wind.  It is 
> all old enough gear that it works exclusively on NMEA 0183.
> 
> The one mode I use least?  GPS
> 
> I guess I also use the engine least too.  The magnetic steering is used 
> regularly in all types of situations, instead of the wheel lock, when I need 
> to leave the helm for a moment.  It's fast and easy to set.  Once the sails 
> are up I can switch to steering by the wind.  If the wind is switchy or too 
> low then I typically switch back to magnetic steering.
> 
> Bear in mind that as others have said, none of this really allows you to 
> abandon you post as helmsman.  Vigilance is still required.  But it may allow 
> time to brew coffee or cook/make a quick meal, get a jacket from below, use 
> the head, cast a fishing line, or real in that catch.  For long offshore 
> passages taking naps is possible but AIS or RADAR alarms are a must.
> 
> All of that being said, the Raymarine Chartplotters integrate really nice 
> because they have an autopilot controller built in.  As discussed in other 
> posts you'll still want an autopilot control in front of the wheel where it 
> can be accessed for single-handed tacking. 
> Additionally, Raymarine has their smartphone apps which allow you to use your 
> phone or tablet to control the chartplotter.  The new chartplotters also 
> provide a radar control and overlay so you can really pull all the 
> information AND control to the one place where it is most useful.  This is 
> why I would (as you said) go the extra step.  Not to punch in a course and 
> tell it to "Engage".
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Nov 11, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine 
>> EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to do 
>> the install. 
>> 
>> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the boat 
>> drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does anyone know 
>> if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin GPSMap2006C to the 
>> “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each other? I’d love to be 
>> able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change heading once a 
>> waypoint is reached. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Just need Sirius XM and you can overlay weather/current etc.  All it takes
is money!

Joel

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 1:05 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wouldn't it be nice if we could overlay water current data (like from the
> gulf stream) and weather data too?
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>
> On Nov 11, 2015, at 1:00 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I feel like it is probably possible.  My Simrad J300X and AP22 will
> naturally steer the boat to a magnetic course.   In addition I've
> configured it to talk to my Garmin 182c for GPS navigation.  This provides
> compensation for set and drift.  Even better is that I have it also
> configured to talk to my Datamarine NavLink Offshore 3500 instrument
> package.  This allows for the autopilot to receive wind information.
> Particularly apparent wind angle, so I can set the boat to steer to the
> wind.  IT SAILS ITSELF!  This also makes singlehanding easy and
> single-handed tacking a breeze.
>
> To summarize it has three modes of steering.  Magnetic, GPS, and Wind.  It
> is all old enough gear that it works exclusively on NMEA 0183.
>
> The one mode I use least?  GPS
>
> I guess I also use the engine least too.  The magnetic steering is used
> regularly in all types of situations, instead of the wheel lock, when I
> need to leave the helm for a moment.  It's fast and easy to set.  Once the
> sails are up I can switch to steering by the wind.  If the wind is switchy
> or too low then I typically switch back to magnetic steering.
>
> Bear in mind that as others have said, none of this really allows you to
> abandon you post as helmsman.  Vigilance is still required.  But it may
> allow time to brew coffee or cook/make a quick meal, get a jacket from
> below, use the head, cast a fishing line, or real in that catch.  For long
> offshore passages taking naps is possible but AIS or RADAR alarms are a
> must.
>
> All of that being said, the Raymarine Chartplotters integrate really nice
> because they have an autopilot controller built in.  As discussed in other
> posts you'll still want an autopilot control in front of the wheel where it
> can be accessed for single-handed tacking.
> Additionally, Raymarine has their smartphone apps which allow you to use
> your phone or tablet to control the chartplotter.  The new chartplotters
> also provide a radar control and overlay so you can really pull all the
> information AND control to the one place where it is most useful.  This is
> why I would (as you said) go the extra step.  Not to punch in a course and
> tell it to "Engage".
>
> Good luck,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 11, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a
>> Raymarine EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until
>> Spring to do the install.
>>
>> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
>> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
>> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
>> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
>> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
>> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>> ___
>
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>
> ___
>
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[svpegasus38]

Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are out, 
you can use it to remove excess sealant. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.



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Stus-List New Sails TODAY!!!

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I'm so excited.  Stuart Dahlgren, from UK Sails NW, is driving down 
to Vashon from Sidney to deliver and fit my new Tape Drive Mail and 
Genoa.  He shipped them from Sidney to Blaine, to avoid BC tax and 
duty, clever man!


We stopped into his loft last summer on our way to the C&C Rendezvous 
to get a genoa repaid and left with an order for both sails.  A nice 
discount and the incredibly advantageous exchange rate closed the 
deal for us.  The free delivery was a bonus!


I'm torn about the wind...do I want light air to ease the 
installation or a nice breeze to test em out?


Either way, Ill try to get some pics to share.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Inflatable Cleaning

[svpegasus38]

Try Goof-off. A friend used it on his dinghy. Said it worked great. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Date: Mon, Oct 26, 
2015 09:43To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Bill Coleman;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Inflatable Cleaning
Barnacle Buster? It might just be hydrochloric acid anyways . . . .  
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303285|2303287&id=750298 
Bill ColemanC&C 39 Erie, PA From: 
CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 9:47 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Inflatable Cleaning OK, so Ileft the inflatable in the water 
a wee bit too long and as it is sansanti-fouling it acquired some nasty growth.

Cleaned it as best I could but there till remains the barnacle discs.  Giventhe 
fragility of the fabric, scraping is dangerous.  What chemical mightwork that 
would be effective yet safe on the Hypalon.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That tool looks like what they use on windshields.  I was already talking
about the Sika adhesive they use.  I don't know why I didn't think of the
tools too.

Thanks for the post!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
wrote:

> Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are
> out, you can use it to remove excess sealant.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List outboard size

[svpegasus38]

I have a 9' Achilles rib wi a 15hp merc 2stroke. But it doesn't seem any to 
have any more power than the old 8hp mariner of the same vintage. Best part is 
both engines weigh the same. Garhauer motor crane to store moror on stern rail 
and spinaker halyard to store dinghy on fordeck. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.





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Re: Stus-List New Sails TODAY!!!

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Tom,

congrats!  I've loved my Tape Drive main to death.  14 years for a laminate
sail, including 2 ocean races.  I hope you are as pleased with yours.

Joel

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 1:30 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm so excited.  Stuart Dahlgren, from UK Sails NW, is driving down to
> Vashon from Sidney to deliver and fit my new Tape Drive Mail and Genoa.  He
> shipped them from Sidney to Blaine, to avoid BC tax and duty, clever man!
>
> We stopped into his loft last summer on our way to the C&C Rendezvous to
> get a genoa repaid and left with an order for both sails.  A nice discount
> and the incredibly advantageous exchange rate closed the deal for us.  The
> free delivery was a bonus!
>
> I'm torn about the wind...do I want light air to ease the installation or
> a nice breeze to test em out?
>
> Either way, Ill try to get some pics to share.
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,
 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
trying to remove the Plexus.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
>> Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are
>> out, you can use it to remove excess sealant.
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>>
>> svPegasus
>>
>> LF38
>>
>> just west of Ballard, WA
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd — Joel’s right, you’ll need some sort of NMEA2000/SeaTalkNG converter to 
NMEA0183 to get your Garmin plotter connected; and the Actisense would be a 
great choice.  The new plotter would be an even greater choice…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 11, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> Looks like the plotter is NMEA 0183 and the AP is NMEA 2000.  You'll need an 
> Actisense converter to translate the info - about $200.  Or get an early 55th 
> bDay present of a new plotter!
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis

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Re: Stus-List Inflatable Cleaning

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

David,
 I tried vinegar with a little dish detergent in it.  I wouldn't say
the barnacles floated off, but 15 minutes with a scrub brush did the trick.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~
*From:* CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
via CnC-List

> *Sent:* Monday, October 26, 2015 9:47 AM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Stus-List Inflatable Cleaning
>
>
>
> OK, so Ileft the inflatable in the water a wee bit too long and as it is
> sansanti-fouling it acquired some nasty growth.
>
> Cleaned it as best I could but there till remains the barnacle discs.
> Giventhe fragility of the fabric, scraping is dangerous.  What chemical
> mightwork that would be effective yet safe on the Hypalon.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
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Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

…says the guy who sells chart plotters….  H :-)



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










> On Nov 11, 2015, at 1:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd — Joel’s right, you’ll need some sort of NMEA2000/SeaTalkNG converter to 
> NMEA0183 to get your Garmin plotter connected; and the Actisense would be a 
> great choice.  The new plotter would be an even greater choice…   :^)
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Nov 11, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Edd,
>> 
>> Looks like the plotter is NMEA 0183 and the AP is NMEA 2000.  You'll need an 
>> Actisense converter to translate the info - about $200.  Or get an early 
>> 55th bDay present of a new plotter!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Does that tool have a name?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gary,

Are you using any type of grinder?  Maybe a drum sander?  Its hard to
believe that Plexus would stand up to the likes of these types of power
tools.

Josh
On Nov 11, 2015 1:56 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Doug,
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
> trying to remove the Plexus.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are
>>> out, you can use it to remove excess sealant.
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Mountjoy
>>>
>>> svPegasus
>>>
>>> LF38
>>>
>>> just west of Ballard, WA
>>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Gary,

Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?

On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard use 
on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from a 
tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and ease 
of position control.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Hi Doug,
 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I don't 
see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it attaches.  
If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying to remove 
the Plexus.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Martin and Josh,
 That is exactly what I tried yesterday.  I used a Multi-Tool with a
triangular carbide rasp.  I found it so hard to control in such a confined
area that it did more damage than good.  In particular, the gel coat is so
much softer than the Plexus that it gouged the gel coat as it broke through
the Plexus.  Because the rasp is perfectly flat it is difficult to keep the
corners from digging in if the rasp isn't perfectly flat.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance


~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
>
>
> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
>
>
>
> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi
> tool and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course
> carbide and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up
> to hard use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard
> adhesive from a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow
> contact area and ease of position control.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
> trying to remove the Plexus.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Gary – 

I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a dremel 
oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be careful, but it 
worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be repair work needed to 
the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work and will install a new 
lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds.  

 

Holler if you have questions.

Pete

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Gary,

 

Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?

 

On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard use 
on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from a 
tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and ease 
of position control.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Hi Doug,

 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I don't 
see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it attaches.  
If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying to remove 
the Plexus.

 

Gary

S/V High Maintenance

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,
 I spent about an hour yesterday with the Multi-Tool and the carbide
triangular rasp, and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of Plexus.  That
leaves me about 16 hours of grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but
the damage done was extensive.  And as I get more tired (remember the 16
hours), then I will get more careless and do more damage.  I tried making a
fixture for my router to remove a window with the adhesive, and it would
probably work, but one slip of the fixture and I would have a hole through
the coach roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I though it too
risky.  Also, the fixture would only work with an intact window and would
not clean up the damage from the window I've already removed.  At this
point I am really discouraged.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance


~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary –
>
> I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a
> dremel oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be
> careful, but it worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be
> repair work needed to the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work
> and will install a new lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds.
>
>
>
> Holler if you have questions.
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Martin DeYoung
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
>
>
> Gary,
>
>
>
> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
>
>
>
> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi
> tool and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course
> carbide and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up
> to hard use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard
> adhesive from a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow
> contact area and ease of position control.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Gary Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
> trying to remove the Plexus.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Replacing windows - repairing gelcoat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If the gelcoat damage is just chips, you might consider gelpaste.  Spectrum
color makes very nice gelpaste in many custom colors.  Gelpaste fixes dings
and chips very well.

Unfortunately, I have no clue which color works best on our boats.  They
only have tinted gelpaste for newer boats, like 2006 and newer.  If it were
me, I'd wander around and find a newer boat that seems close to mine and
see if Spectrum Color has a gelpaste for that boat.  You can go to a paint
store and get samples to compare.

Dennis C.
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Stus-List Replacing Windows

[robert via CnC-List]

I can see this tool used on 'soft adhesives' like Sika but I don't think 
I could have removed my windows with it... I can't see it cutting 
Plexus, at least not the Plexus that were holding my windows.


Another lister said he didn't think a 'putty knife' would do the 
job.it did in my case.I took a narrow, really stiff putty knife, 
filed the edge sharp and used it with a hammer to cut the windows out, 
from the inside of the cabin.a slow, tedious job but it 
worked.almost perfectly until the last window..the long, front 
port windowgot both sides and bottom cut but was having a problem 
cutting the topthen I accidentally pushed the bottom of the window 
out and cracked most of the gelcoat away with the window.  But I got the 
window out.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Replacing Windows

[robert via CnC-List]

Gary:

After removing my windows, the gelcoat inserts had to be cleaned of the 
PlexusI used a drumel tool with the a very small 'bit'..again 
very tedious and time consuming.


I found a 'palm sander' too big and clumpsy.maybe one of those 
sanders with the 'triangle blade' might work betterI did it the hard 
way, I guess.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-11-11 3:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Gary,

Are you using any type of grinder?  Maybe a drum sander?  Its hard to 
believe that Plexus would stand up to the likes of these types of 
power tools.


Josh





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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[svpegasus38]

Windshield removal tool. It was designed to remove glued in automotive 
glass. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-ListDate: Wed, Nov 11, 
2015 11:05To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Stevan Plavsa;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Fwd: Replacing Windows
Does that tool have a name?
SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[svpegasus38]

Sorry Gary, I have never used it on a hard sealant like Plexus. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Gary Russell via CnC-List Date: Wed, Nov 11, 
2015 10:56To: C&C List;Cc: Gary Russell;Subject:Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing 
Windows
Hi Doug,     While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, 
I don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it 
attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying 
to remove the Plexus.
GaryS/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com"  wrote:
Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are out, 
you can use it to remove excess sealant. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA ___

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Stus-List Replacing windows

[robert via CnC-List]

Gary:

I think the most time consuming part of my window replacement project 
was removing the old Plexus.I said earlier, I used a small drumel 
tool with the small carbide bitthe horizontal surfaces were easier 
than the vertical surfaces because of the angle you have to hold the 
tool.   I spent hours doing it.I thought about using a more 
aggressive approach but stayed with the drumel tool as it was getting 
the job done and not causing any other 'collateral damage'.


I already had a gelcoat repair to look forward to.and that took 
hoursI had gravity working against me and matching the color was a 
challengeI got the color match almost rightI can tell the 
difference but others don't notice it.


My window project consumed approx. +60 hours (didn't keep exact time) 
and that included the gelcoat repair.


Take your time and don't take shortcuts.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Replacing windows - repairing gelcoat

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Dennis,
 Fortunately, most of the gel coat damage is under the plexiglas, so it
won't be visible once the VHB and acrylic is in place.  Since 95% of the
Plexus is in tact, I am considering filling the chips in the Plexus / gel
coat with epoxy thickened with silica and calling it a day.  I would do
less damage and it would be less work.  Once the windows were in place you
would never see it.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If the gelcoat damage is just chips, you might consider gelpaste.
> Spectrum color makes very nice gelpaste in many custom colors.  Gelpaste
> fixes dings and chips very well.
>
> Unfortunately, I have no clue which color works best on our boats.  They
> only have tinted gelpaste for newer boats, like 2006 and newer.  If it were
> me, I'd wander around and find a newer boat that seems close to mine and
> see if Spectrum Color has a gelpaste for that boat.  You can go to a paint
> store and get samples to compare.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Gary, 

Multi-Tool: 
The putty knife shaped blades have teeth. There are different blades for wood, 
steel, and even masonry. There are round blades too, and even diamond coated 
blades. These tools are really nice to use and can fit into places nothing else 
will. 

Chuck S 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Gary Russell"  
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 9:04:10 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows 

Hi Chuck, 
Let me assure you that Plexus MA-320 is as hard as a rock. A putty knife blade 
will not touch it. I spent a good part of today trying to grind it away with 
little progress. 

Gary 
~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 7:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Removing old windows. 
Someone earlier suggested using a MultiTool with the "putty knife" like blade. 
Fein made it first and there are many copies. Harbor Freight has it on sale. 
That's what I'll use. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multifunction-Power-Tool-68861.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODQ4NTI2MDciLCJza3UiOiI2ODg2MSIsImlzIjoiMTQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5MyJ9%0D%0A
 

Chuck 






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Re: Stus-List Replacing windows - repairing gelcoat

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I will second doing anything but trying to grind down Plexus. My Lewmar hatch 
handles were glued with it and after 18 years, 2 handles
were inadvertently broken away from the Plexiglas hatch by misadventures of my 
crew.

I would have ground the handles to dust before removing the old Plexus from 
them. 

Decided that if it was that tough, I was going to re-glue them with the same 
stuff (as recommended by Lewmar), leaving the hardened Plexus residue in place.
In spite of the pressure each handle is under when fully closed and that there 
is nothing but the Plexus holding the handle on the Plexiglas,(no bolts or 
screws--nothing!)
both repairs are holding fast.

Seeing the tenacity of the bond, I don't know how my crew was able to break the 
handles away without breaking the Plexiglas--it was probably saved
by its thickness. I would never want to glue anything together that I might 
need to separate some day with that stuff!

Like a properly epoxied wooden boat, where the wood will split before the epoxy 
bond lets go, I think in any relatively large Plexus glued surface,
one or the other surface would give way before the glue would.

Charlie Nelson
S/V Water Phantom



cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Sent: Wed, Nov 11, 2015 4:34 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing windows - repairing gelcoat



Dennis,
 Fortunately, most of the gel coat damage is under the plexiglas, so it 
won't be visible once the VHB and acrylic is in place.  Since 95% of the Plexus 
is in tact, I am considering filling the chips in the Plexus / gel coat with 
epoxy thickened with silica and calling it a day.  I would do less damage and 
it would be less work.  Once the windows were in place you would never see it.


Gary
S/V High Maintenance



~~~_/)~~




On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:


If the gelcoat damage is just chips, you might consider gelpaste.  Spectrum 
color makes very nice gelpaste in many custom colors.  Gelpaste fixes dings and 
chips very well.


Unfortunately, I have no clue which color works best on our boats.  They only 
have tinted gelpaste for newer boats, like 2006 and newer.  If it were me, I'd 
wander around and find a newer boat that seems close to mine and see if 
Spectrum Color has a gelpaste for that boat.  You can go to a paint store and 
get samples to compare.


Dennis C.


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Chuck,
 Yup, I have the Harbor Freight version.  It's a great tool.
Gary
~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi Gary,
>
> Multi-Tool:
> The putty knife shaped blades have teeth.  There are different blades for
> wood, steel, and even masonry.  There are round blades too, and even *diamond
> coated* blades.  These tools are really nice to use and can fit into
> places nothing else will.
>
> Chuck S
>
> --
> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 10, 2015 9:04:10 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
> Hi Chuck,
>  Let me assure you that Plexus MA-320 is as hard as a rock.  A putty
> knife blade will not touch it.  I spent a good part of today trying to
> grind it away with little progress.
>
> Gary
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 7:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Removing old windows.
>> Someone earlier suggested using a MultiTool with the "putty knife" like
>> blade.  Fein made it first and there are many copies.  Harbor Freight has
>> it on sale.  That's what I'll use.
>>
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multifunction-Power-Tool-68861.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODQ4NTI2MDciLCJza3UiOiI2ODg2MSIsImlzIjoiMTQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5MyJ9%0D%0A
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
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Stus-List Veteran

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

If you are a veteran , I salute you today and every day.  I thank you for
your sacrifice and service.

Fair winds,
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered really good suggestions I decided 
to gen-up a quick post in my blog showing the tools that I have use and am 
using for the same project.

Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Nov 11, 2015, at 3:04 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Pete,
>  I spent about an hour yesterday with the Multi-Tool and the carbide 
> triangular rasp, and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of Plexus.  That 
> leaves me about 16 hours of grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but the 
> damage done was extensive.  And as I get more tired (remember the 16 hours), 
> then I will get more careless and do more damage.  I tried making a fixture 
> for my router to remove a window with the adhesive, and it would probably 
> work, but one slip of the fixture and I would have a hole through the coach 
> roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I though it too risky.  Also, the 
> fixture would only work with an intact window and would not clean up the 
> damage from the window I've already removed.  At this point I am really 
> discouraged.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Gary –
> 
> I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a 
> dremel oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be 
> careful, but it worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be 
> repair work needed to the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work 
> and will install a new lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds. 
> 
>  
> 
> Holler if you have questions.
> 
> Pete
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Martin DeYoung
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> 
>  
> 
> Gary,
> 
>  
> 
> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
> 
>  
> 
> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
> and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
> and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard 
> use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from 
> a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and 
> ease of position control.
> 
>  
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> 
> Calypso
> 
> 1971 C&C 43
> 
> Seattle
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Gary Russell
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> 
>  
> 
> Hi Doug,
> 
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I 
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it 
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself 
> trying to remove the Plexus.
> 
>  
> 
> Gary
> 
> S/V High Maintenance
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

When I removed my windows, I used a router. Use the new window and double sided 
tape to hold the new window in place. Then use the router with a pattern bit to 
go all around the window. Remove the new window, and use the router with a 
straight bit to remove the rest of the window where it's held by the plexus. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Gary, 
When I do my windows, I plan to try that tool with a blade like this: 

http://multitoolblade.com/bosch-multi-x-oscillating-multi-tool-blades/1-1-4-flush-cut-diamond-blade.html
 

It might help to heat the window edge first with a heat gun? Or heat the window 
acrylic on a cold day, to help break the glue bond. 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Gary Russell"  
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 5:17:42 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool 

Chuck, 
Yup, I have the Harbor Freight version. It's a great tool. 
Gary 
~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


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Re: Stus-List Veteran

[jim schwartz via CnC-List]

thank you
jim
SEA YA!
c&c 38 LF



-Original Message-
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Sent: Wed, Nov 11, 2015 5:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Veteran



If you are a veteran , I salute you today and every day.  I thank you for your 
sacrifice and service.


Fair winds,
Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~





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Stus-List Butyl tape question

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px 
#715FFA solid !important;  padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white 
!important; }    Great to see new 33 owners. They are great sailing boats. And 
the Atomic 4 is a great engine and fun to learn on. Speaking of adhesives vs. 
sealants, I've been wanting to try butyl tape. The recent floods have uncovered 
leaks inside from both handrails.  Can I use butyl tape to rebed? My big winter 
project is to fix the many small gel coat rubs, fill holes and put new non skid 
on. Finally will be getting self tailing primaries. Will also get the toerail 
stanchion bases so the old holes will have to be filled. I'm unsure if it's 
better for the boat for the deck to get a coat of gel coat sprayed on or each 
area done individually. I know what a yard would say. $ 😳. This is why I'd like 
to try butyl in case I have to rebed everything on deck. (And is removing 
everything necessary if the deck gets sprayed?? I've always heard if it's not 
leaking don't take it off. )

I leave my settee insert in the quarter earth as well frame side up against the 
inside hull. 
Thanks and welcome to our new C&C owners!  
Barbara L. Hickson'76 C&C 33-1 "Flight Risk"Charleston SC - a very wet place






Barbara L. Hickson___

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Re: Stus-List Replacing windows - repairing gelcoat

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

I found that when I removed the plexi, there were three previous adhesives in 
place. Two were softish like silicone and there was definitely Plexus as it was 
rock hard. I hand sanded things reasonably level, and did the thickened epoxy 
to create a flatter surface. I didn't remove all the Plexus as it was very 
firmly attached to the fiberglass. My top sides were previously painted with 
Awlgrip, so I primed and painted the window flange and surrounding area so the 
surfaces were continuous and the 795 would have something decent to bond to. 
This process was the most time consuming part of the portlight project by far. 
And expensive given the numerous Awlgrip components I needed. 

Derek McLeod 
1983 29-2 Aileron 
Toronto
www.derekmcleod.com

> On Nov 11, 2015, at 4:33 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
>  Fortunately, most of the gel coat damage is under the plexiglas, so it 
> won't be visible once the VHB and acrylic is in place.  Since 95% of the 
> Plexus is in tact, I am considering filling the chips in the Plexus / gel 
> coat with epoxy thickened with silica and calling it a day.  I would do less 
> damage and it would be less work.  Once the windows were in place you would 
> never see it.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List Replacing windows - repairing gelcoat

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

One more thing. I picked up a curved Japanese rasp that I think would have been 
great to have when I was doing the portlights. It cuts smoothly and relatively 
easily through cured epoxy and other fillers. The curved shape allows you to 
cut say just a raised epoxy filler blob without affecting the surface 
surrounding it. It's on the left on the Lee Valley page: 
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=63451&cat=1,42524

I also got a couple good carbide Dremel bits from Lee Valley that work great on 
fiberglass and epoxy. One was a ball and the other is a curved tapering cone. 

Derek McLeod 
1983 29-2 Aileron 
Toronto 
www.derekmcleod.com

> On Nov 11, 2015, at 4:33 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
>  Fortunately, most of the gel coat damage is under the plexiglas, so it 
> won't be visible once the VHB and acrylic is in place.  Since 95% of the 
> Plexus is in tact, I am considering filling the chips in the Plexus / gel 
> coat with epoxy thickened with silica and calling it a day.  I would do less 
> damage and it would be less work.  Once the windows were in place you would 
> never see it.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> If the gelcoat damage is just chips, you might consider gelpaste.  Spectrum 
>> color makes very nice gelpaste in many custom colors.  Gelpaste fixes dings 
>> and chips very well.
>> 
>> Unfortunately, I have no clue which color works best on our boats.  They 
>> only have tinted gelpaste for newer boats, like 2006 and newer.  If it were 
>> me, I'd wander around and find a newer boat that seems close to mine and see 
>> if Spectrum Color has a gelpaste for that boat.  You can go to a paint store 
>> and get samples to compare.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> of page at:
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>> 
> 
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Stus-List C&C 32 Available

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Guys,

 

A nice C&C 32 is now available in Hampton VA.  It is a couple of slips down 
from mine.  It has some nice features, like a recent Yanmar repower.  All for 
an asking price of $15,000.

 

http://bayharborbrokerage.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?slim=broker 

 
&boat_id=2908074&checked_boats=2908074&hosturl=bayharbor&&ybw=&units=Feet&access=Public&listing_id=3264&url=

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Veteran

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Are Peace Corps veterans (returnees) included? We took some casualties -
mainly accidents and disease.
Sorry if this is inappropriate.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you are a veteran , I salute you today and every day.  I thank you for
> your sacrifice and service.
>
> Fair winds,
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,

I'm reminded of a quote from John Lennon,

  “Everything will be okay in the end. If 
it's not okay, it's not the end.”


Good luck with the window project. It's a 
seasonal thread here, kinda like Christmas but without the merry.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:54 PM 11/11/2015, you wrote:

Gary,

Dont get discouraged. It will work out.

Thats what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered 
really good suggestions I decided to gen-up a 
quick post in my blog showing the tools that I 
have use and am using for the same project.


Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Nov 11, 2015, at 3:04 PM, Gary Russell via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Pete,
 I spent about an hour yesterday with the 
Multi-Tool and the carbide triangular rasp, 
and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of 
Plexus.  That leaves me about 16 hours of 
grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but 
the damage done was extensive.  And as I get 
more tired (remember the 16 hours), then I 
will get more careless and do more damage.  I 
tried making a fixture for my router to remove 
a window with the adhesive, and it would 
probably work, but one slip of the fixture and 
I would have a hole through the coach 
roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I 
though it too risky.  Also, the fixture would 
only work with an intact window and would not 
clean up the damage from the window I've 
already removed.  At this point I am really discouraged.


Gary
S/V High Maintenance
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Stus-List Headliner

[Douglas via CnC-List]

Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the
galley (four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the
panel and removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the
previous owner trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the
others in the cabin are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a
match. It is cream to beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was
told it was a vinyl wall covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an
island in Washington state. I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land,
but it is normally an 3.5 round trip just over and back, without leaving the
ferry dock area. So I do most things via the internet.

Thanks for any help you may have.

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Re: Stus-List New Subject 84 35 Mk3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jon,

 

You’ve picked a good model.  There is a lot of experience on this list that you 
can draw from. A lot of us have been there before and have the scars to prove 
it.  Don’t be afraid to ask questions.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 11:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows - welcome

 

Me too. She's an '84 35mk3. Though not perfect, appears to be very well cared 
for and well outfitted. Has new port lights, recent rod rigging, fuel tank and 
rebuild of 3gm. Interesting thing about window refit is a ss frame around them. 
Haven't seen that in my research before. Things I need peace of mind with is 
hull integrity and hull/deck joint. There is also a bead of silicone along toe 
rail. This raises an eyebrow.  I know a 30 year old boat will have issues but 
there are issues I can deal with and others I don't have the time or energy to 
deal with.  I've done the soda blast and hull surface restore before and can do 
it again, but I don't want to face recoring. After a year search I'm settled on 
a C&C though. Hence joining the list.  I think the 35 mk 3 hits all the buttons 
for me. 
Jon.
Sent from my iPhone 

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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The ceiling panels can be painted if they are not in too bad shape.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Nov 11, 2015, at 8:41 PM, Douglas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the galley 
> (four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the panel and 
> removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the previous owner 
> trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the others in the cabin 
> are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a match. It is cream to 
> beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was told it was a vinyl 
> wall covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an island in Washington 
> state. I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land, but it is normally an 
> 3.5 round trip just over and back, without leaving the ferry dock area. So I 
> do most things via the internet.
> Thanks for any help you may have.
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Jeff Allston via CnC-List]

On my 32, I stripped the material from the four removable panels and applied 
teak veneer. It made a huge improvement in the interior looks.
JeffC&C 32 Full DeckVictoria, BC

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2015 17:41:53 -0800
Subject: Stus-List Headliner
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: ladoug...@whidbey.com

Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the galley 
(four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the panel and 
removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the previous owner 
trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the others in the cabin 
are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a match. It is cream to 
beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was told it was a vinyl wall 
covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an island in Washington state. 
I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land, but it is normally an 3.5 round 
trip just over and back, without leaving the ferry dock area. So I do most 
things via the internet.Thanks for any help you may have.
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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bob,

I stripped and painted my overhead panels too.  I did a color match at Home 
Depot with some oil based paint.  Worked out great.

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the galley 
(four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the panel and 
removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the previous owner 
trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the others in the cabin 
are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a match. It is cream to 
beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was told it was a vinyl wall 
covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an island in Washington state. 
I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land, but it is normally an 3.5 round 
trip just over and back, without leaving the ferry dock area. So I do most 
things via the internet.

Thanks for any help you may have.

___

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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Douglas via CnC-List]

Jeff

I have seen some examples of that procedure, but the pictures were small and
it was hard to get a good feel for the look.

I have been toying with that idea, only one step better (it was my back up).
Just a short distance from here there is a lumber mill that deals in teak.
They sell the Teak and holly panels for the floor, teak boards and teak
plywood. I was thinking of getting some ¼ teak plywood to make new panel. 

 

Your happy with it. Does it make the cabin feel darker?

Larry

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Allston via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 5:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Allston
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner

 

On my 32, I stripped the material from the four removable panels and applied
teak veneer. It made a huge improvement in the interior looks.

 

Jeff

C&C 32 Full Deck

Victoria, BC

  _  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2015 17:41:53 -0800
Subject: Stus-List Headliner
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: ladoug...@whidbey.com

Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the
galley (four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the
panel and removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the
previous owner trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the
others in the cabin are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a
match. It is cream to beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was
told it was a vinyl wall covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an
island in Washington state. I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land,
but it is normally an 3.5 round trip just over and back, without leaving the
ferry dock area. So I do most things via the internet.

Thanks for any help you may have.


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… quick post in my blog showing the tools…

Dave,

I took a look at your new blog post detailing the tools you have used on the 
window frame clean up.  Nice write up, thanks.

I am jealous about your having access to compressed air and working where you 
can use it.  Where Calypso is moored there are restrictions on what work can be 
done in a slip.  I am already dancing down the line with electric 
sanding/grinding equipment and I am sure running a compressor and air tools 
would get me kicked out.

I believe many of the cnc-listers that are facing a DIY window or other deck 
repair/replacement project need to limit the mess, repainting, or do not have 
the experience and confidence to perform “body and fender” type work on the 
shiny parts of a boat.  I recall the day when Calypso’s co-owner and I finally 
faced up to the amount of repair Calypso’s deck needed and accepted a full 
repaint would be needed.  Once freed from the need to limit shiny paint damage 
we got out the big boy grinding and sanding equipment which greatly sped up the 
early phases of the repairs.

This month marked to point where way more hand sanding is needed with the 
resulting wear and tear on the arms and wrists (as you mention in your blog 
post).  I have been using hand sanding blocks and foam shapes (purchased from 
auto body repair equip sources) to improve the hand sanding ergonomics 
especially around the many corners and rounded shapes of a C&C.  The sticky 
back sand paper option increased efficiency over the old school paper clamps.  
I have had good luck sourcing abrasives through several web sites including 
Industrial Abrasives.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 2:54 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered really good suggestions I decided 
to gen-up a quick post in my blog showing the tools that I have use and am 
using for the same project.

Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,
 I am having trouble understanding your description.  I assume the
first step with the pattern bit is to cut out the new window and the second
step is to remove the old window.  If this is true, then I am concerned
about controlling the router in the second step so as not to damage the
area around the old window.  Is your old window recessed as mine is?

Gary
S//V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 5:57 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I removed my windows, I used a router.  Use the new window and double
> sided tape to hold the new window in place.  Then use the router with a
> pattern bit to go all around the window.  Remove the new window, and use
> the router with a straight bit to remove the rest of the window where it's
> held by the plexus.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
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Re: Stus-List Veteran

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Bob,
 If you are serving our country, then of course you are included.
Thank you for your service.

Gary


~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 8:02 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Are Peace Corps veterans (returnees) included? We took some casualties -
> mainly accidents and disease.
> Sorry if this is inappropriate.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> If you are a veteran , I salute you today and every day.  I thank you for
>> your sacrifice and service.
>>
>> Fair winds,
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Martin& Dave,

I've been involved with 4 in-the-water boat deck 
restorations here in an area just north of the 
PNW, (around Lat 49' 10 - 30" N.)


Since winter is a good time for in-the-water boat 
work in our area, all were covered with a 2x4 & 
1x4 framework peaked over the boom and covered in 
plastic (poly or trap) down to the 
toe-rail.   All marinas have a "no sanding" 
policy but not one of us suffered a complaint, 
maybe due to the containment, lack of traffic at 
this time of year and good vacuum practices.  Or 
perhaps because we are all, just good fellows. I like to believe the latter. :)


As you might imagine, these enclosures are very 
pleasant to work in during our typical winter.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, B.C. South Coast


At 06:25 PM 11/11/2015, you wrote:


>… quick post in my blog showing the tools…


Dave,

I took a look at your new blog post detailing 
the tools you have used on the window frame clean up.  Nice write up, thanks.


I am jealous about your having access to 
compressed air and working where you can use 
it.  Where Calypso is moored there are 
restrictions on what work can be done in a 
slip.  I am already dancing down the line with 
electric sanding/grinding equipment and I am 
sure running a compressor and air tools would get me kicked out.


I believe many of the cnc-listers that are 
facing a DIY window or other deck 
repair/replacement project need to limit the 
mess, repainting, or do not have the experience 
and confidence to perform “body and fender” 
type work on the shiny parts of a boat.  I 
recall the day when Calypso’s co-owner and I 
finally faced up to the amount of repair 
Calypso’s deck needed and accepted a full 
repaint would be needed.  Once freed from the 
need to limit shiny paint damage we got out the 
big boy grinding and sanding equipment which 
greatly sped up the early phases of the repairs.


This month marked to point where way more hand 
sanding is needed with the resulting wear and 
tear on the arms and wrists (as you mention in 
your blog post).  I have been using hand sanding 
blocks and foam shapes (purchased from auto body 
repair equip sources) to improve the hand 
sanding ergonomics especially around the many 
corners and rounded shapes of a C&C.  The sticky 
back sand paper option increased efficiency over 
the old school paper clamps.  I have had good 
luck sourcing abrasives through several web 
sites including Industrial Abrasives.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 2:54 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered 
really good suggestions I decided to gen-up a 
quick post in my blog showing the tools that I 
have use and am using for the same project.


Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit
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Stus-List Butyl tape question

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px 
#715FFA solid !important;  padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white 
!important; }    Great to see new 33 owners. They are great sailing boats. And 
the Atomic 4 is a great engine and fun to learn on. Speaking of adhesives vs. 
sealants, I've been wanting to try butyl tape. The recent floods have uncovered 
leaks inside from both handrails.  Can I use butyl tape to rebed? My big winter 
project is to fix the many small gel coat rubs, fill holes and put new non skid 
on. Finally will be getting self tailing primaries. Will also get the toerail 
stanchion bases so the old holes will have to be filled. I'm unsure if it's 
better for the boat for the deck to get a coat of gel coat sprayed on or each 
area done individually. I know what a yard would say. $ 😳. This is why I'd like 
to try butyl in case I have to rebed everything on deck. (And is removing 
everything necessary if the deck gets sprayed?? I've always heard if it's not 
leaking don't take it off. )

I leave my settee insert in the quarter earth as well frame side up against the 
inside hull. 
Thanks and welcome to our new C&C owners!  
Barbara L. Hickson'76 C&C 33-1 "Flight Risk"Charleston SC - a very wet place



 

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Stus-List Rememberence Day 2015

[J Roger via CnC-List]

We dont thank vets in my country...we remember them...and all of their
sacrafices.just for 2 mintues each year...on the 11th hour of the 11th
day of 11th monththats the way the Vets want it..not to burden the
living with guilt .my country doesnt have living heros..our heroes
are  in the ground or at the bottom of the sea.my country doesnt have
movies to show what our vets did.lots of folks don't have a clue about
my country..Lest We Forget.
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

A flap disc on an angle grinder will probably work well.  Might try a flap
wheel on a drill too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Z5AZZBY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1447303118&sr=1-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=flap+disc&dpPl=1&dpID=51XK2iOCK9L&ref=plSrch

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 11, 2015 2:29 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Martin and Josh,
>  That is exactly what I tried yesterday.  I used a Multi-Tool with a
> triangular carbide rasp.  I found it so hard to control in such a confined
> area that it did more damage than good.  In particular, the gel coat is so
> much softer than the Plexus that it gouged the gel coat as it broke through
> the Plexus.  Because the rasp is perfectly flat it is difficult to keep the
> corners from digging in if the rasp isn't perfectly flat.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary,
>>
>>
>>
>> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi
>> tool and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course
>> carbide and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up
>> to hard use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard
>> adhesive from a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow
>> contact area and ease of position control.
>>
>>
>>
>> Martin DeYoung
>>
>> Calypso
>>
>> 1971 C&C 43
>>
>> Seattle
>>
>>
>> [image: Description: Description:
>> cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Doug,
>>
>>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
>> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
>> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
>> trying to remove the Plexus.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> S/V High Maintenance
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
>
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