Re: Stus-List Running Back Stays

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have them and don't find them a pain in the neck.  I use them when it is
windy (over 10 to 15 knots) or the seas lumpy.  On lighter wind days I
don't use them at all.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

On 28 July 2015 at 00:21, scott gary via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Looking at a 37/40XL and I know they have running back stays, anyone who
> has them, are they a pain in the neck, or do you not use them all
> the time.  I am not planning on doing much racing, mostly cruising.  I've
> heard of people on other types of boats just removing them all together.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> C&C 35/3
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Running Back Stays

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I think these may be check stays rather than running backs.  Running back stays 
mostly on fractional rigs and are for downwind sailing as well as trim upwind.  

Persistence has check stays. We were concerned as you are when we were looking 
at boat.  Other posters are correct. These are for lumpy seas over 15 knots to 
stop mast from pumping. When light we disconnect and attach to turnbuckles at 
shrouds.  I have a snap shackle to reconnect to blocks on transom when wind 
comes up.  We also changed the lines in the blocks to smaller diameter 60 Ft a 
side so that when using checks we let the line out downwind rather than 
disconnecting.  These are not the pita we thought they would be but do add one 
extra thing to do when in use.

If all boats were swept back spreaders like cc99 and 115 we would not have this 
discussion.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frees 33

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of scott gary via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: July 28, 2015 12:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: scott gary
Subject: Stus-List Running Back Stays

Hi All,

Looking at a 37/40XL and I know they have running back stays, anyone who has 
them, are they a pain in the neck, or do you not use them all the time.  I am 
not planning on doing much racing, mostly cruising.  I've heard of people on 
other types of boats just removing them all together.

Thanks,
Scott
C&C 35/3

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Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

[Ron Ander via CnC-List]

My cover for the pump out (black coloured) lid has gone a.w.o.l. I have been
having no success finding a replacement in Toronto. The fresh water and fuel
lids are the exact same size and threading. If I could find either one of
them I will just paint it black and use it.

 

It is a small item so purchasing it anywhere that can ship will be good.

 

Any ideas?

 

Ron Ander

Alchemist - C&C 29 Mk 2 1986

Etobicoke Yacht Club.

an...@rogers.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Original oven and propane stove removed

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Peter - I'd recommend keeping the stove in the garage and putting it 
back in before you sell the boat.   Wal


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Re: Stus-List Original oven and propane stove removed

[John McKay via CnC-List]

PeterCan you send me a picture, make and the dimensions please.
John on Enterprise
 


 On Tuesday, July 28, 2015 8:38 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

 Peter - I'd recommend keeping the stove in the garage and putting it 
back in before you sell the boat.  Wal

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Re: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ron,

 

Try Marine Outfitters in Kingston.  http://www.marineoutfitters.ca

I'm surprised that Holland Marine,  Fogh (formerly Mason's) or Brewers in
Hamilton don't have any.

The Binnacle here in Halifax list a replacement cap also.
http://ca.binnacle.com/

 

Good luck in your hunt.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ander
via CnC-List
Sent: July-28-15 09:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ander
Subject: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

 

My cover for the pump out (black coloured) lid has gone a.w.o.l. I have been
having no success finding a replacement in Toronto. The fresh water and fuel
lids are the exact same size and threading. If I could find either one of
them I will just paint it black and use it.

 

It is a small item so purchasing it anywhere that can ship will be good.

 

Any ideas?

 

Ron Ander

Alchemist - C&C 29 Mk 2 1986

Etobicoke Yacht Club.

an...@rogers.com

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6081 / Virus Database: 4392/10324 - Release Date: 07/28/15

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Re: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

They come in at least 3 different sizes.  Measure carefully!

Joel

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 9:16 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron,
>
>
>
> Try Marine Outfitters in Kingston.  http://www.marineoutfitters.ca
>
> I’m surprised that Holland Marine,  Fogh (formerly Mason’s) or Brewers in
> Hamilton don’t have any.
>
> The Binnacle here in Halifax list a replacement cap also.
> http://ca.binnacle.com/
>
>
>
> Good luck in your hunt.
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C&C 25  #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ron
> Ander via CnC-List
> *Sent:* July-28-15 09:37
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ron Ander
> *Subject:* Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out
>
>
>
> My cover for the pump out (black coloured) lid has gone a.w.o.l. I have
> been having no success finding a replacement in Toronto. The fresh water
> and fuel lids are the exact same size and threading. If I could find either
> one of them I will just paint it black and use it.
>
>
>
> It is a small item so purchasing it anywhere that can ship will be good.
>
>
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Ron Ander
>
> Alchemist - C&C 29 Mk 2 1986
>
> Etobicoke Yacht Club.
>
> an...@rogers.com
>
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.6081 / Virus Database: 4392/10324 - Release Date: 07/28/15
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Dan, I thoroughly enjoyed reading your log, thank you for including it; I can 
only imagine all of the events which didn't make the log, its those little 
things that make a trip like this enjoyable!!

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners 
Cc: Daniel Sheer 
Sent: Mon, Jul 27, 2015 1:07 pm
Subject: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage



June 5 - 28 2015 in an LF38. Baltimore to Nantucket and back. Log and photos at
Pegathy_NE_Voyage




 


 




 

 

 

 

 



Pegathy_NE_Voyage
30_Sailin_in_the_downpour_LymetoNew_Haven.jpg 9:50 am 








View on drive.google.com

Preview by Yahoo







 



Best viewed on Google Drive. Enjoy. Questions answered on the forum.


Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Ron, if you can't find it locally It's on Amazon and probably a whole 
lot cheaper.  
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marine+waste+cap&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amarine+waste+cap
 
West has them too . 

BTW, I have found many really good deals on Amazon for several other 
things like this led light to replace my burned-out weather beaten stern 
light 
http://www.amazon.com/MARINE-WHITE-NAVIGATION-WATERPROOF-NAUTICAL/dp/B00I0BPZ1U/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1438091021&sr=1-7


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron 
Ander
via CnC-List
Sent: July-28-15 09:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ander
Subject: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

 

My cover for the pump out (black coloured) lid has gone a.w.o.l. I have 
been
having no success finding a replacement in Toronto. The fresh water and 
fuel
lids are the exact same size and threading. If I could find either one of
them I will just paint it black and use it.

 

It is a small item so purchasing it anywhere that can ship will be good.

 

Any ideas?

 

Ron Ander

Alchemist - C&C 29 Mk 2 1986

Etobicoke Yacht Club.

an...@rogers.com


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Stus-List Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Joel,
I like Rita at First Class Yacht Services in Pasadena, Md. Very reasonable, 
good workmanship, real sunbrella, she measures, and everything just fits. If 
you do enquire, tell her I sent you.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Re: Stus-List Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dan,

Thanks for the referral.  I'll mention your name!

Joel

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Joel,
>
> I like Rita at First Class Yacht Services in Pasadena, Md. Very
> reasonable, good workmanship, real sunbrella, she measures, and everything
> just fits. If you do enquire, tell her I sent you.
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy - LF38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Starter

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Mike,

I had this issue on the Enterprise-A (1978 C&C 34) once. It was the solenoid. 

All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






On Jul 28, 2015, at 10:51 AM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then could be 
fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground at the 
transmission to enginebolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to 
check.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List  
Date: 07-28-2015  11:51  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net 
Subject: Stus-List Starter 

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Start first at the switch. Test for power across the terminals with the
button pushed. If no voltage is seen on the 1st push, it is likely the
contacts within the switch are dirty. You can sometimes temporarily clean
the contacts by multiple pushes of the starter button with the ignition key
off. If you have voltage across the button, then check for voltage between
the button and the solenoid. Clean the terminals on the wires, button, and
solenoid. That you can start on the 2nd button push suggest that the
solenoid and fuses are OK.

Ed
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:04 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then
> could be fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground
> at the transmission to engine
> bolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to check.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
> Date: 07-28-2015 11:51 (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
> Subject: Stus-List Starter
>
> I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for
> my Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine
> starts right up.
>
> What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start
> up at the push button switch or at the solenoid?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mike
> Atacama, 33 mkii
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Binnacle.com___

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Re: Stus-List Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Cavco canvas 305 481 3443. Ted Cavender.  Kent island 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 28, 2015, at 10:04, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dan,
> 
> Thanks for the referral.  I'll mention your name!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Joel,
>> 
>> I like Rita at First Class Yacht Services in Pasadena, Md. Very reasonable, 
>> good workmanship, real sunbrella, she measures, and everything just fits. If 
>> you do enquire, tell her I sent you.
>> 
>> Dan Sheer
>> Pegathy - LF38
>> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Starter

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Mike, 

My guess is bad contacts on the switch. I am starting there as it is a 
cheap and easy fix. Since it's a 25 year old switch that makes sense to 
replace anyway.  I have noticed that the switch feels 'mushy" and it's 
been doing the miss intermittently over the past 2-3 times I've used the 
boat.I am replacing mine this evening or tomorrow.

It's Yanmar part # 124070-91300

I ordered it from Marine Outfitters of Canada   
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/1-888-732-8883 

I "Had" to order it from Canada as Yanmar has territories in the US and 
none of the authorized online guys seem to ship to Georgia. He has good 
prices and a good selection too.  He's in Kingston.

I hope that does the trick. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier


> Subject: Stus-List Starter
>
> I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button 
for
> my Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the 
engine
> starts right up.
>
> What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start
> up at the push button switch or at the solenoid?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mike
> Atacama, 33 mkii
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de 
Bell.

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Re: Stus-List Running Back Stays

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

The check stays are also used in light air to put shape back in the sail.
The offshore rigs are super bendy. If you want to reduce headstay sag and
still have shape in the main you need to use these in light wind.

Eric
34/36

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 6:25 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think these may be check stays rather than running backs.  Running back
> stays mostly on fractional rigs and are for downwind sailing as well as
> trim upwind.
>
> Persistence has check stays. We were concerned as you are when we were
> looking at boat.  Other posters are correct. These are for lumpy seas over
> 15 knots to stop mast from pumping. When light we disconnect and attach to
> turnbuckles at shrouds.  I have a snap shackle to reconnect to blocks on
> transom when wind comes up.  We also changed the lines in the blocks to
> smaller diameter 60 Ft a side so that when using checks we let the line out
> downwind rather than disconnecting.  These are not the pita we thought they
> would be but do add one extra thing to do when in use.
>
> If all boats were swept back spreaders like cc99 and 115 we would not have
> this discussion.
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frees 33
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of scott gary
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: July 28, 2015 12:21 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: scott gary
> Subject: Stus-List Running Back Stays
>
> Hi All,
>
> Looking at a 37/40XL and I know they have running back stays, anyone who
> has them, are they a pain in the neck, or do you not use them all the
> time.  I am not planning on doing much racing, mostly cruising.  I've heard
> of people on other types of boats just removing them all together.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> C&C 35/3
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Had the same symptoms last year.  Tested the voltage across the start button 
terminals on the back of the panel and found 12+ volts so concluded that was 
not the issue, but could not find the cause.  The mechanic tested and found the 
same voltage, but insufficient current.  There were partial breaks in some of 
the wires at / inside the wire harness that at times would connect and other 
times not, until it quit completely.  He cut the harness out and using butt 
connectors directly wired the panel.  Worked every time since.   

 

Moral of the story; check voltage and current.  And any wiring fault can lead 
to what appears to be a faulty start button.

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starter

 

Start first at the switch. Test for power across the terminals with the button 
pushed. If no voltage is seen on the 1st push, it is likely the contacts within 
the switch are dirty. You can sometimes temporarily clean the contacts by 
multiple pushes of the starter button with the ignition key off. If you have 
voltage across the button, then check for voltage between the button and the 
solenoid. Clean the terminals on the wires, button, and solenoid. That you can 
start on the 2nd button push suggest that the solenoid and fuses are OK.

 

Ed

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:04 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then could be 
fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground at the 
transmission to engine

bolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to check.

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung device



 Original message 
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Date: 07-28-2015 11:51 (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net   
Subject: Stus-List Starter 

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Running Back Stays

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mike...most older C&C's and especially those designed by Cuthbertson don't
have swepth back spreaders or running backstays and some with over 50 feet
of stick are single spreader...makes life with the rig very easy

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 7:25 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think these may be check stays rather than running backs.  Running back
> stays mostly on fractional rigs and are for downwind sailing as well as
> trim upwind.
>
> Persistence has check stays. We were concerned as you are when we were
> looking at boat.  Other posters are correct. These are for lumpy seas over
> 15 knots to stop mast from pumping. When light we disconnect and attach to
> turnbuckles at shrouds.  I have a snap shackle to reconnect to blocks on
> transom when wind comes up.  We also changed the lines in the blocks to
> smaller diameter 60 Ft a side so that when using checks we let the line out
> downwind rather than disconnecting.  These are not the pita we thought they
> would be but do add one extra thing to do when in use.
>
> If all boats were swept back spreaders like cc99 and 115 we would not have
> this discussion.
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frees 33
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of scott gary
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: July 28, 2015 12:21 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: scott gary
> Subject: Stus-List Running Back Stays
>
> Hi All,
>
> Looking at a 37/40XL and I know they have running back stays, anyone who
> has them, are they a pain in the neck, or do you not use them all the
> time.  I am not planning on doing much racing, mostly cruising.  I've heard
> of people on other types of boats just removing them all together.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> C&C 35/3
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 114, Issue 59

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

The entire log runs about 5 times the length - too long. I selected the stuff I 
thought would be of interest to other sailors and the crew. It was a great 
trip, and I got to share it with lots of friends and some of their kids. Boats 
(and theater) tend to teach kids stuff like responsibility and non-sports 
teamwork. It's great to watch them get it. Can't wait to get my grandkids on 
the boat. Not a good idea to take 2.5 year olds that can't swim. Especially 
according to the Admiral.
Also, getting crew along the way worked well for me. Wasn't too much trouble 
(lots of planes trains and automobiles along the way) and the crew worked 
almost all of it out for themselves once they chose a leg. 'Tis wonderful to 
have a great time yourself while showing your friends a good time too.

Dan

  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 12:00 PM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 114, Issue 59
   
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
    cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Pegathy's New England Voyage (Richard N. Bush)
  2.  Black Lid For Pump Out (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
  3.  Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top (Daniel Sheer)
  4. Re:  Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top (Joel Aronson)
  5.  Starter (mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net)
  6. Re:  Starter (Edd Schillay)
  7. Re:  Starter (jhnelson)
  8. Re:  Starter (Edward Levert)
  9. Re:  Black Lid For Pump Out (mike amirault)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 09:29:29 -0400
From: "Richard N. Bush" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
Message-ID: <8d2975090736e39-68c-1d...@webmailstg-va04.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


 Dan, I thoroughly enjoyed reading your log, thank you for including it; I can 
only imagine all of the events which didn't make the log, its those little 
things that make a trip like this enjoyable!!

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners 
Cc: Daniel Sheer 
Sent: Mon, Jul 27, 2015 1:07 pm
Subject: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage



June 5 - 28 2015 in an LF38. Baltimore to Nantucket and back. Log and photos at
Pegathy_NE_Voyage




 


 




 

 

 

 

 



Pegathy_NE_Voyage
30_Sailin_in_the_downpour_LymetoNew_Haven.jpg 9:50 am 








View on drive.google.com

Preview by Yahoo







 



Best viewed on Google Drive. Enjoy. Questions answered on the forum.


Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 09:47:40 -0400
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List  Black Lid For Pump Out
Message-ID: <201507281348.t6sdmgvb007...@d03av04.boulder.ibm.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Ron, if you can't find it locally It's on Amazon and probably a whole 
lot cheaper.  
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marine+waste+cap&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amarine+waste+cap
 
West has them too . 

BTW, I have found many really good deals on Amazon for several other 
things like this led light to replace my burned-out weather beaten stern 
light 
http://www.amazon.com/MARINE-WHITE-NAVIGATION-WATERPROOF-NAUTICAL/dp/B00I0BPZ1U/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1438091021&sr=1-7


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron 
Ander
via CnC-List
Sent: July-28-15 09:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ander
Subject: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

 

My cover for the pump out (black coloured) lid has gone a.w.o.l. I have 
been
having no success finding a replacement in Toronto. The fresh water and 
fuel
lids are th

Re: Stus-List Starter

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've had owners call me a couple times on this issue with Yanmars.  Most
likely problems have been either the start button switch or the connector
in the wiring harness.

Test the start button by jumping across the back.  If starter engages
strongly, push the button,  If starter is weak or doesn't engage, then
contacts on inside of start button are carboned up.

As for the connector, remove any tape, pull apart, spread TefGel in both
sides, connect and pull apart several times.  Try it.  If it works, re-tape
it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 3:02 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Had the same symptoms last year.  Tested the voltage across the start
> button terminals on the back of the panel and found 12+ volts so concluded
> that was not the issue, but could not find the cause.  The mechanic tested
> and found the same voltage, but insufficient current.  There were partial
> breaks in some of the wires at / inside the wire harness that at times
> would connect and other times not, until it quit completely.  He cut the
> harness out and using butt connectors directly wired the panel.  Worked
> every time since.
>
>
>
> Moral of the story; check voltage and current.  And any wiring fault can
> lead to what appears to be a faulty start button.
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edward
> Levert via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 28, 2015 11:18 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Edward Levert 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Starter
>
>
>
> Start first at the switch. Test for power across the terminals with the
> button pushed. If no voltage is seen on the 1st push, it is likely the
> contacts within the switch are dirty. You can sometimes temporarily clean
> the contacts by multiple pushes of the starter button with the ignition key
> off. If you have voltage across the button, then check for voltage between
> the button and the solenoid. Clean the terminals on the wires, button, and
> solenoid. That you can start on the 2nd button push suggest that the
> solenoid and fuses are OK.
>
>
>
> Ed
>
> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>
> New Orleans
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:04 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then
> could be fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground
> at the transmission to engine
>
> bolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to check.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
> Date: 07-28-2015 11:51 (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
> Subject: Stus-List Starter
>
> I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for
> my Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine
> starts right up.
>
> What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start
> up at the push button switch or at the solenoid?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mike
> Atacama, 33 mkii
> Toronto
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Everything everyone else said is good.

My 2 cents: sometimes a tiny break in a wire or contact will prevent 
current from flowing, but after a few seconds of power the wire heats up 
from the resistance and expands enough to close the circuit.  Wire does 
get old.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Pump for shower sump

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I picked up a Whale pump at Fawcetts.  Installing it Saturday.  Time will
tell!
Thanks for the advice.

Joel

On Thursday, July 23, 2015, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have to get it off the pump--I'll get back to you with it.
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Jul 23, 2015, at 7:44 PM, D Harben via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
> Hi Bob
>
>
> Model # ?
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

This happens to me a few times each year. I will 
try to start with the switch up to 3 times before 
I go looking. Most times it starts on the second 
or third attempt. FTC (failure to crank) is most 
often resolved by wiggling the connections on the 
fuse at the back of the head. A couple of times 
the connections at the back of the panel enjoyed caressing.


Someday I will deal with the issue but today is 
not the day. Tomorrow doesn't look so good 
either. :) The weather is truly grand on the West Coast these past months.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Ex A4, current is Yanmar 2QM20, next is 
a Universal 25 (on a dolly in the shed)



At 07:51 AM 28/07/2015, you wrote:
I've noticed a few times this season that when i 
push the start button for my Yanmar 2GM20F 
nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts right up.


What is the most efficient way of debugging this 
problem? Should I start up at the push button switch or at the solenoid?


Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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