Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 C&C 38
Joe — Graham’s correct, the EV-100 ACU will only power a hydraulic drive good for medium-size hydraulically-steered powerboats; that’s its niche. With a boat your size and displacement, you’ll need either a Type 1 linear drive or a hydraulic ram like the Octopus; and thus the more powerful EV-200 to drive it. Richard Bush on the list is in the process of installing a system with a Raymarine “a" Series MFD and an EV-200 ACU, using an Octopus hydraulic drive. With the pinched sterns on our boats (he’s got a 37), it’s a real challenge finding room for the drive and attaching it properly to the quadrant (there’s really not enough room for a tiller arm on some of these). Maybe he can chime in on his experience. If you’re looking for advice and system info on Raymarine or other systems, this list has a wealth of experience; let me know off-list if I can help you source equipment or design a system. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 28, 2015, at 8:37 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote: > Hi Joe > Depends on what you want to use it for, I would doubt the EV-100 would > suffice in any strong weather conditions, you would be at the upper limit of > its capabilities. The EV-200 would be a better fit. > > The other consideration is integration with whatever other electronics you > have or are contemplating. I've got an EV-200 and an A7 plotter, they play > nicely together and allow me to do the software updates to the system > (usually requires a same brand plotter). If I had a Garmin plotter some > things would not work together. > > Graham Collins > Secret Plans > C&C 35-III #11 > > On 2015-02-28 9:45 PM, Joe Scott via CnC-List wrote: >> Hi All, >> >> I have been reading stuff on here for a while but this is my first email. >> We got our 1976 C&C 38 at the end of last summer and have been looking for >> (among a bunch of other stuff:) an Autopilot. Anyone have any experience >> with the Ev-100 on a boat this size? From the specs I’d say its close to >> being not enough. If it’s not enough, anyone have a recommendation? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Joe Scott >> 1976 C&C 38 >> Ashtabula Oh ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 C&C 38
Thanks Fred; We did get everything installed and, despite the difficulty of the tight area, it was worth the effort; the unit is plenty powerful enough to handle the boat in big waves; also, we relied heavily on Freds's advice during the install; > On Mar 1, 2015, at 11:13 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List > wrote: > > Joe — Graham’s correct, the EV-100 ACU will only power a hydraulic drive good > for medium-size hydraulically-steered powerboats; that’s its niche. With a > boat your size and displacement, you’ll need either a Type 1 linear drive or > a hydraulic ram like the Octopus; and thus the more powerful EV-200 to drive > it. > > Richard Bush on the list is in the process of installing a system with a > Raymarine “a" Series MFD and an EV-200 ACU, using an Octopus hydraulic drive. > With the pinched sterns on our boats (he’s got a 37), it’s a real challenge > finding room for the drive and attaching it properly to the quadrant (there’s > really not enough room for a tiller arm on some of these). Maybe he can > chime in on his experience. > > If you’re looking for advice and system info on Raymarine or other systems, > this list has a wealth of experience; let me know off-list if I can help you > source equipment or design a system. > > Fred Street -- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > >> On Feb 28, 2015, at 8:37 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Hi Joe >> Depends on what you want to use it for, I would doubt the EV-100 would >> suffice in any strong weather conditions, you would be at the upper limit of >> its capabilities. The EV-200 would be a better fit. >> >> The other consideration is integration with whatever other electronics you >> have or are contemplating. I've got an EV-200 and an A7 plotter, they play >> nicely together and allow me to do the software updates to the system >> (usually requires a same brand plotter). If I had a Garmin plotter some >> things would not work together. >> >> Graham Collins >> Secret Plans >> C&C 35-III #11 >> >>> On 2015-02-28 9:45 PM, Joe Scott via CnC-List wrote: >>> Hi All, >>> >>> I have been reading stuff on here for a while but this is my first email. >>> We got our 1976 C&C 38 at the end of last summer and have been looking for >>> (among a bunch of other stuff:) an Autopilot. Anyone have any experience >>> with the Ev-100 on a boat this size? From the specs I’d say its close to >>> being not enough. If it’s not enough, anyone have a recommendation? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Joe Scott >>> 1976 C&C 38 >>> Ashtabula Oh > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Non skid trending to gelcoat
Thanks All! The FibreGlast website is excellent and the rentable color card is the way I'm going with a matching gelcoat. It will be an improvement til the paint job comes on the horizon. Thankful I don't have to shovel snow off the boat! Barbara H. Fellers "Flight Risk" C&C 33-1 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Alternator Output Question
Listers, As you know, I'm planning a rewire to a house and starting battery configuration. On the C&C 37+, I have access to three sides of the engine -- the only side without access is the side with the starter and the alternator. From the diagrams I can find, the alternator output is connected to the starter, which then runs back to the batteries. I understand the best practice is to disconnect that wire (as well as the Orange one) and run a new wire from the alternator output to the house bank. This would mean removing, rewiring, and reattaching the alternator, which is a little out of my comfort zone given the access. I recently read on a forum that if you have an ACR instead of an Echo charger (planning to have an ACR), then you can leave the setup as is. The charge from the alternator would go to the starting battery and then, through the ACR, charge the house bank. The ACR auto senses from each side and works both ways. My starter battery and house bank will be the same chemical make-up (Trojan flooded). I've read that it's a "best practice" to run the charging to the biggest bank, but can't find any explanation as to why. So, the question is, with the ACR, can I leave the alternator output as is or do I really need to do some "engine surgery" to run a new cable? And if the latter, why can't the system work the way that the ACR advertises? All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
