Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I will bet that Garhauer would do it as well.  I had them custom fabricate a 
set of stainless steel bow chocks for my boat last winter and they were great 
and relatively inexpensive compared to what I thought it would cost.  Dave

On Jul 30, 2014, at 10:44 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Steve,
> 
> The guys at http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ can do both but South Shore 
> may be a better bet for the stanchion.
> 
> Walk down your pier to the J30 "Jalapeno" and look at the SS handrails on it. 
>  I had whitewater make those for me to install.  Sent them the old teak ones 
> for a pattern.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war!

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I 'repaired' mine with Head Lube. Good stuff.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: CnClist 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:23 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Joker valve war!


  I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking 
back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl and the 
anti-siphon loop.   

  As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
material.


  I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  


  Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale 
build up.


  This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
$10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
altogether.



  Any other tricks?


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA



--


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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war!

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I just replaced mine last night. Ridiculously easy job. Cleaned the tank out, 
pumped lots of fresh water through and took it apart. I only lost about a litre 
of water onto the head floor. 
I was getting tired of coming back from a sail and having to swab the head!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
(Where's the wind?!?!!)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 8:31 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I 'repaired' mine with Head Lube. Good stuff.
>  
> Gary
> - Original Message -
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> To: CnClist
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:23 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Joker valve war!
> 
> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking 
> back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl and the 
> anti-siphon loop.   
> 
> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
> most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
> material.
> 
> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
> I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  
> 
> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale 
> build up.
> 
> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
> $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
> altogether.
> 
> Any other tricks?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I
replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job,
but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when
I do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the
system to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still
having issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without
holding the valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the
metal backing washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the
rubber piece, and while I was there I just changed all the parts that were
in the service kit.

Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil,
but I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or
twice a year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share
experiences with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no
solids)?  I am considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.

Thanks,

Tim


On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was
> leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl
> and the anti-siphon loop.
>
> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar
> and most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was
> dumpster material.
>
> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of
> it.  I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for
> heads.
>
> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes
> scale build up.
>
> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for
> under $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to
> skip it altogether.
>
> Any other tricks?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I'm surprised at the need to rebuild two or three times per year. The head ate 
in my 38 has just been rebuilt for the second time in the 11 years I've owned 
her.

This rebuild was because the piston seal was worn, and the pump would loose 
prime and operate slowly. When I installed the new service kit ( which was 
close to $85) I found out that the pump housing was leaking because of a couple 
of cracks in the lands where the screws go to hold the pump pieces together - 
so there was not sufficient force to make a good seal. 

I installed a new complete pump assembly from the boat spares ( I had picked 
one up from some former cruisers at a nautical yard sail ), but when I went to 
order a new pump housing for spares I found it to be NLA, and the complete 
valve is almost $200. That's more that a new Raritan head.

So I guess I'll get another 4 or 5 years out of the current valve and one 
rebuild kit I have on the boat. And the I will plan on installing a new head.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 11:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I 
> replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job, 
> but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I 
> do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the system 
> to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still having 
> issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without holding the 
> valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the metal backing 
> washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber piece, and 
> while I was there I just changed all the parts that were in the service kit.
> 
> Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil, but 
> I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or twice a 
> year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share experiences 
> with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?  I am 
> considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was 
>> leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl 
>> and the anti-siphon loop.   
>> 
>> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
>> most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
>> material.
>> 
>> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
>> I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  
>> 
>> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes 
>> scale build up.
>> 
>> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
>> $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
>> altogether.
>> 
>> Any other tricks?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

I'm chasing leaks on a VacuFlush system. 4 joker valves and a pump diaphragm so 
far. Aargh!

Rich

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 12:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I 
> replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job, 
> but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I 
> do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the system 
> to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still having 
> issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without holding the 
> valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the metal backing 
> washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber piece, and 
> while I was there I just changed all the parts that were in the service kit.
> 
> Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil, but 
> I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or twice a 
> year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share experiences 
> with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?  I am 
> considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was 
>> leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl 
>> and the anti-siphon loop.   
>> 
>> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
>> most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
>> material.
>> 
>> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  
>> I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  
>> 
>> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes 
>> scale build up.
>> 
>> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under 
>> $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
>> altogether.
>> 
>> Any other tricks?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My cheap Jabsco is on its second season.  I did replace the joker valve
this year, but it was a simple process.  Otherwise, it works fine.

Joel
35/3


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm chasing leaks on a VacuFlush system. 4 joker valves and a pump
> diaphragm so far. Aargh!
>
> Rich
>
> On Jul 31, 2014, at 12:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I
> replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job,
> but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when
> I do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the
> system to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still
> having issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without
> holding the valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the
> metal backing washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the
> rubber piece, and while I was there I just changed all the parts that were
> in the service kit.
>
> Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil,
> but I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or
> twice a year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share
> experiences with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no
> solids)?  I am considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was
>> leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl
>> and the anti-siphon loop.
>>
>> As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar
>> and most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was
>> dumpster material.
>>
>> I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of
>> it.  I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for
>> heads.
>>
>> Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes
>> scale build up.
>>
>> This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for
>> under $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to
>> skip it altogether.
>>
>> Any other tricks?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
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>
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Fair, Mike via CnC-List]

I replaced my whole unit with a Lavac. It uses a manual diaphragm bilge pump 
(gusher style) and I  have had not one issue in 7 years of operations. Minimal 
moving parts and a favorite with live boards and bluewater cruisers. Cost was 
under $300.

Thanks,

Mike Fair
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:08 PM
To: Tim Goodyear; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

I'm chasing leaks on a VacuFlush system. 4 joker valves and a pump diaphragm so 
far. Aargh!
Rich

On Jul 31, 2014, at 12:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I 
replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job, but 
I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I do it. 
 The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the system to clear 
scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still having issues with 
the pump losing prime and not drying easily without holding the valve leaver 
down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the metal backing washer from 
one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber piece, and while I was there 
I just changed all the parts that were in the service kit.

Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil, but I 
am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or twice a year, 
so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share experiences with 
their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?  I am considering 
the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.

Thanks,

Tim

On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking 
back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl and the 
anti-siphon loop.

As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and 
most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster 
material.
I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.  I 
think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.
Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale 
build up.
This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under $10 
and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it 
altogether.

Any other tricks?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've had a Jabsco for 14 years.  3-4 years ago, I put the Twist and Lock
pump assembly on it.  Other than the joker valve scaling up, it has worked
well.

FWI, regardless of brand of head, my advice to all is to consider replacing
the entire pump assembly rather than rebuilding an existing one.  For most
manual heads, the cost differential isn't great but you get better
results.  You don't know if the old pump cylinder is scored or if other
parts not included in the rebuild kit are OK.  Plus, it's quicker and
easier to replace the pump assembly than to install a rebuild kit.

For instance, a pump assembly for the Jabsco is $82 on amazon.com (
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-29040-3000-Marine-Manual-Assembly/dp/B001794BS0).
A rebuild kit is $57 (
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-29045-2000-Marine-Manual-Service/dp/B000O8D38E
).

Is 30-45 minutes of your time worth $25 and the risk of a botched rebuild?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

> Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I
> replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job,
> but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when
> I do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the
> system to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still
> having issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without
> holding the valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the
> metal backing washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the
> rubber piece, and while I was there I just changed all the parts that were
> in the service kit.
>
> Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil,
> but I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or
> twice a year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share
> experiences with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no
> solids)?  I am considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
>>
>>
>
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Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering
odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are
pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.

Ray
LakeHouse
Libertyville, IL
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

I agree with replacing the pump assembly.
I “upgraded” the Jabsco head to a twist lock, rebuild kit was 69.99, complete 
assembly was 79.00… order a spare Joker as well
Four screws a gear clamp and you’re done.
No messing around with crusty gaskets and rubber.

http://ca.binnacle.com/p6899/ITT-TWIST-&-LOCK-TOILET-PUMP-ASSEMBLY/product_info.html

Tim
C&C 33MKII
 Toronto
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:46 PM
To: Tim Goodyear; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

I've had a Jabsco for 14 years.  3-4 years ago, I put the Twist and Lock pump 
assembly on it.  Other than the joker valve scaling up, it has worked well.
FWI, regardless of brand of head, my advice to all is to consider replacing the 
entire pump assembly rather than rebuilding an existing one.  For most manual 
heads, the cost differential isn't great but you get better results.  You don't 
know if the old pump cylinder is scored or if other parts not included in the 
rebuild kit are OK.  Plus, it's quicker and easier to replace the pump assembly 
than to install a rebuild kit.
For instance, a pump assembly for the Jabsco is $82 on 
amazon.com 
(http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-29040-3000-Marine-Manual-Assembly/dp/B001794BS0). 
 A rebuild kit is $57 
(http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-29045-2000-Marine-Manual-Service/dp/B000O8D38E).
Is 30-45 minutes of your time worth $25 and the risk of a botched rebuild?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, Tim Goodyear 
mailto:timg...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I 
replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job, but 
I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I do it. 
 The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the system to clear 
scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still having issues with 
the pump losing prime and not drying easily without holding the valve leaver 
down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the metal backing washer from 
one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber piece, and while I was there 
I just changed all the parts that were in the service kit.

Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil, but I 
am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or twice a year, 
so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share experiences with 
their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?  I am considering 
the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.

Thanks,

Tim









This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[dwight via CnC-List]

I installed an electric marine toilet on Alianna several years ago.it has
not required any service yet, just flush with 50/50 ethylene glycol for
winter storage.

 

The push button flush is really simple and easy to use for everyone.we are
primarily daysailers nowadays.I am not sure I would want it if we were doing
more extended cruising 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fair,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: July 31, 2014 1:15 PM
To: Rich Knowles; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

 

I replaced my whole unit with a Lavac. It uses a manual diaphragm bilge pump
(gusher style) and I  have had not one issue in 7 years of operations.
Minimal moving parts and a favorite with live boards and bluewater cruisers.
Cost was under $300. 

 

Thanks,

 

Mike Fair

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:08 PM
To: Tim Goodyear; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

 

I'm chasing leaks on a VacuFlush system. 4 joker valves and a pump diaphragm
so far. Aargh!

Rich


On Jul 31, 2014, at 12:35, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
wrote:

Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I
replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job,
but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when I
do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the
system to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still
having issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without
holding the valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the
metal backing washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the rubber
piece, and while I was there I just changed all the parts that were in the
service kit.

 

Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil,
but I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or
twice a year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share
experiences with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no solids)?
I am considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

 

On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:

I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was
leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl
and the anti-siphon loop.   

As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and
most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster
material.

I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it.
I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads.  

Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes
scale build up.

This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under
$10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it
altogether.

 

Any other tricks?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7932 - Release Date: 07/27/14

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Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out

[dwight via CnC-List]

I replaced the old discharge hosing and valves with better quality products
when I installed my electric marine toilet.I believe old hoses are likely
responsible for any odors.my old hoses were thick walled black wire
reinforced rubber. They appeared from the outside to be in good shape with
no liquid leaks but the interior walls were heavily crusted. I estimate at
least half of the cross sectional area was blocked and that caused
resistance to flush.the new white sanitary hose seems a much better product
and the electric toilet has a macerator pump which helps 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond
Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: July 31, 2014 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out

 

Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering
odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are
pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.

Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7932 - Release Date: 07/27/14

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Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any 
suggestions would be much appreciated.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

It's the state of drainage on the dilithium crystals

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 3:13 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

 

Listers,

 

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage
reach 13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 

 

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any
suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

   All the best,

 

   Edd

 

 

   Edd M. Schillay

   Starship Enterprise

   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

   City Island, NY 

   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Edd,

If the belt is slipping there should be extra dust visible and often some belt 
squealing especially when the regulator is calling for high output.

Do you have a charge current monitor?  Calypso's LINK 2000 monitor will often 
show a lower voltage early in the charge cycle when the current is at it's 
highest.  This is also the time when we might hear a little belt squeal.  Our 
alternator is at the high end of single belt capability so we change it often 
and when hearing belt squeal we back down the RPM for a few moments to allow 
the load to drop a few amps.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:13 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Listers,

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage reach 13.2 
tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any 
suggestions would be much appreciated.

   All the best,

   Edd


   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Ed,

 Is the belt showing any signs of slippage?  Is the inside of the belt
shiny?  It might be that one of your alternator diodes are gone reducing
the output.  You can take the alternator to an automotive alternator shop
and he can test the diodes or if you have a VOM with a diode test function
you can test the diodes yourself.  It could also be your regulator, but if
you are still charging, that would seem less likely.

Gary
S/V Expresso
C&C 35 Mk II

~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops
> when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).
>
> Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions
> would be much appreciated.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
>  Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>  City Island, NY
>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Gary,

There may be some signs of slippage as I often hear some squealing 
during the initial startup which lasts until I change the RPMs or after 10-20 
seconds. Would slippage cause the voltage to drop or would that only happen 
temporarily once it’s going again? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:25 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:

> Hi Ed,
> 
>  Is the belt showing any signs of slippage?  Is the inside of the belt 
> shiny?  It might be that one of your alternator diodes are gone reducing the 
> output.  You can take the alternator to an automotive alternator shop and he 
> can test the diodes or if you have a VOM with a diode test function you can 
> test the diodes yourself.  It could also be your regulator, but if you are 
> still charging, that would seem less likely.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Expresso
> C&C 35 Mk II
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Listers,
> 
>   Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
> when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 
> 
>   Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any 
> suggestions would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> Would slippage cause the voltage to drop or would that only happen 
> temporarily once it's going again?

That's an excellent question.  Hopefully another lister with recent alternator 
troubleshooting experience will respond.

My SWAG is once the belt stops slipping the alternator's output will vary 
slightly with engine RPM up to the point the regulator sees what it needs.  
IIRC, the charge level and the battery's ability to absorb the charge may also 
affect the alternators voltage output.  Do you know have far your battery's 
have been discharged?

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 11:28 AM
To: Gary Russell
Cc: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Gary,

There may be some signs of slippage as I often hear some squealing 
during the initial startup which lasts until I change the RPMs or after 10-20 
seconds. Would slippage cause the voltage to drop or would that only happen 
temporarily once it's going again?

   All the best,

   Edd


   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log

On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:25 PM, Gary Russell 
mailto:captnga...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Hi Ed,

 Is the belt showing any signs of slippage?  Is the inside of the belt 
shiny?  It might be that one of your alternator diodes are gone reducing the 
output.  You can take the alternator to an automotive alternator shop and he 
can test the diodes or if you have a VOM with a diode test function you can 
test the diodes yourself.  It could also be your regulator, but if you are 
still charging, that would seem less likely.

Gary
S/V Expresso
C&C 35 Mk II

~~~_/)~~

On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers,

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it 
used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would 
be much appreciated.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Gary,

The key is never turned off until the engine is completely stopped. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:37 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:

> Another thought.  Diodes usually get fried by turning off the key while a 
> diesel engine is still running.  There is a device called a Zap-Stop that 
> will prevent damage, but in the absence of such a device the diodes will be 
> compromised by turning off the key before the engine stops.
> 
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
> It is possible to have some slippage without the squealing, I suppose.  My 
> feeling is to fix the problem you understand and hope the problem you don't 
> understand goes away.  In other words, once a belt starts squealing, it's 
> toast.  So replace the belt and see if your voltage goes up.  If not, take 
> the alternator to a shop and have the diodes tested.  They will usually do it 
> for free, in the hopes of getting the rebuild business if the diodes are bad.
> 
> Gary
> S/V  Expresso
> C&C 35 Mk II
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:27 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> Gary,
> 
>   There may be some signs of slippage as I often hear some squealing 
> during the initial startup which lasts until I change the RPMs or after 10-20 
> seconds. Would slippage cause the voltage to drop or would that only happen 
> temporarily once it’s going again? 
> 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:25 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
> 
>> Hi Ed,
>> 
>>  Is the belt showing any signs of slippage?  Is the inside of the belt 
>> shiny?  It might be that one of your alternator diodes are gone reducing the 
>> output.  You can take the alternator to an automotive alternator shop and he 
>> can test the diodes or if you have a VOM with a diode test function you can 
>> test the diodes yourself.  It could also be your regulator, but if you are 
>> still charging, that would seem less likely.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Expresso
>> C&C 35 Mk II
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
>> when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 
>> 
>>  Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any 
>> suggestions would be much appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

What kind of current reading do you have on each battery when charging?
I've never seen 13.7 on my boat.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 2:13 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

 

Listers,

 

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage reach
13.2 tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 

 

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any
suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

   All the best,

 

   Edd

 

 

   Edd M. Schillay

   Starship Enterprise

   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

   City Island, NY 

 Starship Enterprise's
Captain's Log

 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

You should address any slippage regardless of voltage indications. Just
replace the belt and adjust correctly. Slippage is never normal. 

 

As far as the voltage indications… after you have removed any slippage from
the equation, a heavy load (such as charging a drained of weak battery) will
drop your voltage reading. Unless you have changed the load situation
significantly I would check the fluid levels in the batteries if they are
not sealed. An old tired battery will draw down the indicated voltage. If
you are charging multiple batteries, any single battery can cause this
problem. Good luck!

 

Skip

C&C 33 ¾ tonner

Portsmouth, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 2:28 PM
To: Gary Russell
Cc: C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

 

Gary,

 

There may be some signs of slippage as I often hear some
squealing during the initial startup which lasts until I change the RPMs or
after 10-20 seconds. Would slippage cause the voltage to drop or would that
only happen temporarily once it’s going again? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 

On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:25 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:





Hi Ed,

 

 Is the belt showing any signs of slippage?  Is the inside of the belt
shiny?  It might be that one of your alternator diodes are gone reducing the
output.  You can take the alternator to an automotive alternator shop and he
can test the diodes or if you have a VOM with a diode test function you can
test the diodes yourself.  It could also be your regulator, but if you are
still charging, that would seem less likely.

 

Gary

S/V Expresso

C&C 35 Mk II




~~~_/)~~

 

On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
 wrote:

Listers,

 

Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when
it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 

 

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions
would be much appreciated.

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 


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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If the voltage is low due to belt slippage the noise should be very evident, 
black dust will be everywhere, and the alternator will get VERY hot from 
friction on the pulley.  This will actually ruin the bearings sooner or later.
As for not seeing 13.7 - do you mean that low or that high? I cannot think of 
any kind of battery that would be happy at that low of a finishing voltage. 
Even my oh-so-sensitive gels want to see 14.1 or so.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 2:47 PM
To: 'Edd Schillay'; 'CNC boat owners, cnc-list'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Edd,

What kind of current reading do you have on each battery when charging?I've 
never seen 13.7 on my boat.

Regards,
Ron
Ronald V. Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com




From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 2:13 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Listers,

Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage reach 13.2 
tops when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any 
suggestions would be much appreciated.

   All the best,

   Edd


   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

Do you have an internal or external voltage regulator (charge controller).
Regardless the alternator is probably putting out the amount of voltage
required by the  regulator.  Often times the voltage being supplied by the
alternator is different than that being sensed by the regulator.  Recently
one of the listers had his sensing line corroded to the point of falling
off.  In this case regulator sensed too low of a battery voltage and drove
the corresponding alternator output up...to ~33v!  Likewise if high
resistance on the output cabling or voltage being dropped across a battery
isolator diode is causing the regulator to think there is more voltage
being sent to the batteries than there actually is then the regulator would
drive alternator oupltput down.  The voltage drop across an isolation diode
is about 0.7v and the normal full charge voltage for a standard wet lead
acid battery is 14.4v.  So 13.7v is easily explained.  If the contacts or
cabling are getting old and corroded then the remaining 0.5v drop to 13.2v
is explained.  The cabling included the ground connections made by mounting
the alternator to the engine and the bonding/ground cable feom the engine
to the batteries.

Check and compare the voltage at the alternator output terminals, the
battery terminals, and the sensing terminals.

Yes a loose belt can cause low output but you would probably hear it.  Once
it stops slipping the output returns to normal.

Good luck,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons ,MD
On Jul 31, 2014 2:13 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Lately, when the engine running, I'm seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops
> when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).
>
> Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions
> would be much appreciated.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Propane!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

When it comes to propane on board, you really need to follow all of the 
rules all of the time.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yxm3uMy6MPI&feature=youtu.be

Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

I’ll head out there this weekend (weather permitting), change the belt 
(it’s been a while) and do some tests. 

Since you have a 37+ too, how do you get back there to test the 
alternator terminals? I’m considering adding an access port in my head so I can 
get to the port side of the engine. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:58 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Edd,
> 
> Do you have an internal or external voltage regulator (charge controller).  
> Regardless the alternator is probably putting out the amount of voltage 
> required by the  regulator.  Often times the voltage being supplied by the 
> alternator is different than that being sensed by the regulator.  Recently 
> one of the listers had his sensing line corroded to the point of falling off. 
>  In this case regulator sensed too low of a battery voltage and drove the 
> corresponding alternator output up...to ~33v!  Likewise if high resistance on 
> the output cabling or voltage being dropped across a battery isolator diode 
> is causing the regulator to think there is more voltage being sent to the 
> batteries than there actually is then the regulator would drive alternator 
> oupltput down.  The voltage drop across an isolation diode is about 0.7v and 
> the normal full charge voltage for a standard wet lead acid battery is 14.4v. 
>  So 13.7v is easily explained.  If the contacts or cabling are getting old 
> and corroded then the remaining 0.5v drop to 13.2v is explained.  The cabling 
> included the ground connections made by mounting the alternator to the engine 
> and the bonding/ground cable feom the engine to the batteries. 
> 
> Check and compare the voltage at the alternator output terminals, the battery 
> terminals, and the sensing terminals.
> 
> Yes a loose belt can cause low output but you would probably hear it.  Once 
> it stops slipping the output returns to normal.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons ,MD
> 
> On Jul 31, 2014 2:13 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Listers,
> 
>   Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
> when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 
> 
>   Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any 
> suggestions would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

It never hurts to change the belt


-Original Message-
From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2014-‎07-‎31 3:15 PM
To: "Josh Muckley" 
Cc: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Josh,


I’ll head out there this weekend (weather permitting), change the belt (it’s 
been a while) and do some tests. 


Since you have a 37+ too, how do you get back there to test the alternator 
terminals? I’m considering adding an access port in my head so I can get to the 
port side of the engine. 




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


On Jul 31, 2014, at 2:58 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:


Edd,
Do you have an internal or external voltage regulator (charge controller).  
Regardless the alternator is probably putting out the amount of voltage 
required by the  regulator.  Often times the voltage being supplied by the 
alternator is different than that being sensed by the regulator.  Recently one 
of the listers had his sensing line corroded to the point of falling off.  In 
this case regulator sensed too low of a battery voltage and drove the 
corresponding alternator output up...to ~33v!  Likewise if high resistance on 
the output cabling or voltage being dropped across a battery isolator diode is 
causing the regulator to think there is more voltage being sent to the 
batteries than there actually is then the regulator would drive alternator 
oupltput down.  The voltage drop across an isolation diode is about 0.7v and 
the normal full charge voltage for a standard wet lead acid battery is 14.4v.  
So 13.7v is easily explained.  If the contacts or cabling are getting old and 
corroded then the remaining 0.5v drop to 13.2v is explained.  The cabling 
included the ground connections made by mounting the alternator to the engine 
and the bonding/ground cable feom the engine to the batteries.  
Check and compare the voltage at the alternator output terminals, the battery 
terminals, and the sensing terminals.
Yes a loose belt can cause low output but you would probably hear it.  Once it 
stops slipping the output returns to normal. 
Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons ,MD
On Jul 31, 2014 2:13 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Listers,


Lately, when the engine running, I’m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops when it 
used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 


Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions would 
be much appreciated.




All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK?

If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4" on a 10" span 
while the engine is running
it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 
minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable
to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed.

If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the 
charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes.
Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no 
load from the boat. Add a small
load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage 
again.

Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. 

A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V.
After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V.

If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 
volts, which is considered to be
a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle 
battery.

If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming 
up to 12.6 V the charger may
be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode 
where after a rest from charging
the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going 
over 13 V.

If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be 
+/- 0.1 volt ), and after a
1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not 
charging above 13.2 V then the
alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 
From: Edd Schillay  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? 
Message-ID: <216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" 
 
Listers, 
 
     Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).  
 
     Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions 
would be much appreciated. 
 
 
     All the best, 
 
     Edd 
 
 
     Edd M. Schillay 
     Starship Enterprise 
     C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
     City Island, NY  
     Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Ray,

In saltwater, it's the dying plankton that smells.  It doesn't take 
more than a few per gallon to smell.  When we leave the boat, we pump 
a little fresh water through to clear the pipe.  As Martha says, 
"It's a good thing."


Cheers, Lee
C&C35-II
In Seattle



Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid 
lingering odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same 
time as they are pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be 
greatly appreciated.


Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL



--

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

* above 13.2 V then the
alternator is suspect.*

This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not 
use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go 
right to float.
A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full 
battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in 
bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace 
between 13.8 and 14.7 volts.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK?

If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4" on a 10" span 
while the engine is running
it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 
minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable
to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed.

If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the 
charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes.
Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no 
load from the boat. Add a small
load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage 
again.

Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage.

A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V.
After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V.

If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 
volts, which is considered to be
a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle 
battery.

If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming 
up to 12.6 V the charger may
be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode 
where after a rest from charging
the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going 
over 13 V.

If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be 
+/- 0.1 volt ), and after a
1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not 
charging above 13.2 V then the
alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400
From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
Message-ID: 
<216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Listers,

Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0).

Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions 
would be much appreciated.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
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Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ray,

 

After I pump out, I partially fill the holding tank with water and pump it out 
again.  Hopefully this will reduce the amount of material inside the tank which 
might lead to odors.  Others may have more effective procedures.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond 
Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out

 

Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering odors. 
 I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are pumping it 
out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.

Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL 

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Re: Stus-List Propane!

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Okay, that was funny.  I guess propane is safe, but you should never 
wire C4 all over the boat and then set it off.


Wal


you wrote:
When it comes to propane on board, you really need to follow all of 
the rules all of the time.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yxm3uMy6MPI&feature=youtu.be

Bill Bina 



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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

  the point of the last sentence is that if everything else is OK,
that being belt tension - wiring - battery - etc, the alternator
should be outputting at least 13.2 V to be useful. I think Edd
mentioned that he is seeing 13.2 "tops" and use to see more.
Based on that alone I would guess something is wrong, and
am making a guess it is the alternator.

  I may be missing your point.

"(if) the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the 
alternator is suspect."

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 21:18:56 + 
From: "Della Barba, Joe"  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? 
Message-ID: 
      
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
* above 13.2 V then the 
alternator is suspect.* 
 
This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not 
use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go 
right to float. 
A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full 
battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in 
bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace 
between 13.8 and 14.7 volts. 
 
Joe Della Barba 
Coquina 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? 
 
Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK? 
 
If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4" on a 10" span 
while the engine is running 
it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 
minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable 
to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed. 
 
If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the 
charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes. 
Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no 
load from the boat. Add a small 
load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage 
again. 
 
Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. 
 
A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 
V. 
After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V. 
 
If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 
volts, which is considered to be 
a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle 
battery. 
 
If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming 
up to 12.6 V the charger may 
be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode 
where after a rest from charging 
the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going 
over 13 V. 
 
If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be 
+/- 0.1 volt ), and after a 
1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not 
charging above 13.2 V then the 
alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it. 
 
Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C&C 30-1 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors

[dwight via CnC-List]

Jake

That's a lot of pumpin

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: July 31, 2014 7:31 PM
To: 'Raymond Macklin'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head
odors

 

Ray,

 

After I pump out, I partially fill the holding tank with water and pump it
out again.  Hopefully this will reduce the amount of material inside the
tank which might lead to odors.  Others may have more effective procedures.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond
Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out

 

Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering
odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are
pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.

Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7932 - Release Date: 07/27/14

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Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I think I read it as if the alternator IS charging above 13.2 it is 
suspect…….Doh
Anyway, anything under 13.8 into a fully charged battery is quite low IF there 
is not a regulator that switches to float mode.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Hi Joe,

  the point of the last sentence is that if everything else is OK,
that being belt tension - wiring - battery - etc, the alternator
should be outputting at least 13.2 V to be useful. I think Edd
mentioned that he is seeing 13.2 "tops" and use to see more.
Based on that alone I would guess something is wrong, and
am making a guess it is the alternator.

  I may be missing your point.

"(if) the alternator is not charging above 13.2 V then the
alternator is suspect."

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 21:18:56 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
Message-ID:

mailto:a373e4f5749545c18587455f51eac...@nsc-dag1-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

* above 13.2 V then the
alternator is suspect.*

This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not 
use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go 
right to float.
A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full 
battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in 
bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be someplace 
between 13.8 and 14.7 volts.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK?

If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4" on a 10" span 
while the engine is running
it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 
minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable
to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed.

If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the 
charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes.
Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with no 
load from the boat. Add a small
load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage 
again.

Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage.

A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 V.
After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V.

If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 
volts, which is considered to be
a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep cycle 
battery.

If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not coming 
up to 12.6 V the charger may
be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a mode 
where after a rest from charging
the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going 
over 13 V.

If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be 
+/- 0.1 volt ), and after a
1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not 
charging above 13.2 V then the
alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html

Nice
Expensive

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Looks like a fishing expedition to me.

Can get newer and longer C&C at 1/2 that price.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 7:41 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html
>
>
>
> Nice
>
> Expensive
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
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> page at:
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>
>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Discounted already

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C-%26-C-Custom-2598240/Sanfrancisco/CA/United-States



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html

Nice
Expensive

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors

[Indigo via CnC-List]

The pump out boat operator in Edgartown MA advised partly refilling the holding 
tank by pumping in fresh water via the head and then pumping out. Said this 
stirs up any solids lying at the bottom of the tank.  Better than refilling the 
tank with fresh water via the deck fitting - which I had been doing. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 19:50, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Jake
> That’s a lot of pumpin
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: July 31, 2014 7:31 PM
> To: 'Raymond Macklin'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors
>  
> Ray,
>  
> After I pump out, I partially fill the holding tank with water and pump it 
> out again.  Hopefully this will reduce the amount of material inside the tank 
> which might lead to odors.  Others may have more effective procedures.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond 
> Macklin via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:52 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out
>  
> Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering 
> odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are 
> pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Libertyville, IL
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7932 - Release Date: 07/27/14
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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> at:
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

That is the C&C 43 Evening Star.  For many years it was in the Seattle area and 
owned by a long time C&C enthusiast who restored and upgraded the boat to be 
one of the nicest 43’ boats around.  It was also fast and well sailed every 
time we got 2 or 3 43’s on the starting line.

A few years back the 43 was traded for the C&C 48 (poss once named Discovery) 
that was for sale out of San Francisco.  The new 48’ owner restored and 
upgraded the 48’ to his requirements and has recently been reported to be 
cruising the US east coast.  IIRC it is now named Morning Star.

The new 43’ owner in San Francisco almost immediately listed Evening Star for 
around $300K.  The recent price range for a 70’s 43 runs from $49K to Evening 
Star’s current $175K.  If someone wanted to own a 70’s 43 and did not want to 
spend the time to restore and upgrade themselves making an offer on Evening 
Star would make sense.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:59 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C

Looks like a fishing expedition to me.
Can get newer and longer C&C at 1/2 that price.
Dennis C.

On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 7:41 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html

Nice
Expensive

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Ebay via CnC-List]

Shame really.  Someone put some money into her.  More money to go I'm afraid.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 31, 2014, at 9:00 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Discounted already……..
>  
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C-%26-C-Custom-2598240/Sanfrancisco/CA/United-States
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>  
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html
>  
> Nice
> Expensive
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Still trying to get the hang of racing with a symmetrical spinnaker - and 
sorely in need of advice!

I am setting up the pole with the lazy jib sheet over the pole and forward of 
the pole topping lift (taped back at the mast end of the pole)

Set goes fine, then furl the jib. However after a couple of gybes, I find the 
jib sheets always need re-running before being able to unfurl the jib before 
douse. 

What am I doing wrong?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors

[Monty Schumpert via CnC-List]

That’s what I do — flush one or two gallons of fresh water through the head 
during pump out when the pump runs dry. Seems to work OK. I also pour about a 
cup of Hydrofil, which I get from Fawcetts in Annapolis,  in the head and flush 
into the tank several times between pump outs. This works better than anything 
else I have tried for controlling odor.

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD

On Jul 31, 2014, at 9:06 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

> The pump out boat operator in Edgartown MA advised partly refilling the 
> holding tank by pumping in fresh water via the head and then pumping out. 
> Said this stirs up any solids lying at the bottom of the tank.  Better than 
> refilling the tank with fresh water via the deck fitting - which I had been 
> doing. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> On Jul 31, 2014, at 19:50, dwight via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>> Jake
>> That’s a lot of pumpin
>>  
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
>> Brodersen via CnC-List
>> Sent: July 31, 2014 7:31 PM
>> To: 'Raymond Macklin'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out + reducing head odors
>>  
>> Ray,
>>  
>> After I pump out, I partially fill the holding tank with water and pump it 
>> out again.  Hopefully this will reduce the amount of material inside the 
>> tank which might lead to odors.  Others may have more effective procedures.
>>  
>> Jake
>>  
>> Jake Brodersen
>> “Midnight Mistress”
>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>> Hampton VA
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond 
>> Macklin via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 12:52 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Proper Process for Head Pump Out
>>  
>> Is there is a recognized process to pump out the head to avoid lingering 
>> odors.  I have heard people will run a hose at the same time as they are 
>> pumping it out.  Anything that can help would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse
>> Libertyville, IL
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7932 - Release Date: 07/27/14
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
>> page at:
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>> 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wow! A fully tweaked C&C 43. Beautiful lines. Sweet sheerline and love how the 
cabintop blends into the foredeck. Great upgrades. First class job, but I don't 
think they'll get half of what they are asking. There are so many other choices 
on the market for less than $175K. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 9:46:36 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C 

Shame really. Someone put some money into her. More money to go I'm afraid. 

John 


Sent from my iPad 

On Jul 31, 2014, at 9:00 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 






Discounted already…….. 



http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C-%26-C-Custom-2598240/Sanfrancisco/CA/United-States
 









From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Della 
Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 8:41 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C 




http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html 




Nice 

Expensive 




Joe Della Barba 

Coquina 





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