Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport race
Steve Sharkey,Are you still at NEB?HarryMIRAGEOn Jun 12, 2013, at 03:27 PM, Steve Sharkey wrote:No problem. The last boat in our class that actually finished didn't get in until early today and had previously been shown as a DNF. A pretty high mortality rate in this race with a lot a gear failure and sail damage. Luckily my boat did well and aside from my 30-year old datamarine depth sounder nothing broke.Steve Sharkey ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Transmission on Universal
I had trouble starting my Universal M-430 yesterday and eventually realized that it was having trouble turning over the engine because it was actually in gear when I thought it was in neutral (plus my batteries were weak after sitting for 3 weeks). This is the second time this has happened, and it is because the shift lever is very sticky and hard to move, so it is very hard to tell where neutral is. Is this likely the cable needing replacement, or is there something on the engine/transmission I can lubricate or tweak to try and make it smoother? Thanks- Dave David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Transmission on Universal
Hi David,Check the shifter lever at the transmission and make sure fuel lines or hoses aren't blocking the throw. Check the fluid level while you're there. I once changed the fuel filters on my M4-30 and had one fuel line from the water separator got pushed behind the transmission shifter lever and blocked it from going into reverse. Simple fix once discovered. Tie Wrap the hose out of the way.The trans lever should be easy to move by hand while still connected to the cable. If the Lever is hard to move, disconnect the cable and try each alone, to see where you have friction. The cable is SS rod through a plastic sleeve so any lube safe for those materials should help ease the friction there. Use something that drys so it doesn't attract dirt.Cables are ordered by length, not very expensive, but you'll need to pull the compass from the pedestal to get to the other end, so if you take on this project, I'd replace the throttle cable at the same time, for piece of mind.ChuckResolute1990 C&C 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "David Knecht" To: "CnC CnC discussion list" Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 8:20:14 AMSubject: Stus-List Transmission on UniversalI had trouble starting my Universal M-430 yesterday and eventually realized that it was having trouble turning over the engine because it was actually in gear when I thought it was in neutral (plus my batteries were weak after sitting for 3 weeks). This is the second time this has happened, and it is because the shift lever is very sticky and hard to move, so it is very hard to tell where neutral is. Is this likely the cable needing replacement, or is there something on the engine/transmission I can lubricate or tweak to try and make it smoother? Thanks- Dave David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT ___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Transmission on Universal
Best way to find out is to disconnect the cable at the transmission. The lever on the transmission should move easily and have a detention position in neutral. That will determine if the problem is your tx, your cable or perhaps the shifter at the binnacle. Follow your nose! Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-06-16, at 8:20, David Knecht wrote: I had trouble starting my Universal M-430 yesterday and eventually realized that it was having trouble turning over the engine because it was actually in gear when I thought it was in neutral (plus my batteries were weak after sitting for 3 weeks). This is the second time this has happened, and it is because the shift lever is very sticky and hard to move, so it is very hard to tell where neutral is. Is this likely the cable needing replacement, or is there something on the engine/transmission I can lubricate or tweak to try and make it smoother? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Transmission on Universal
David, The easiest way to tell if it's the cable or lubrication is to have someone down below and physically push/pull the lever on the engine into forward, neutral and reverse. If the engine reacts quickly, you can be pleased to know your transmission is fine and you just have a cabling issue. If it is a cabling issue, there are ways to lubricate a cable, but the best way is to remove it -- and if you remove it, it's actually easier to replace it. Good luck. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 On Jun 16, 2013, at 8:20 AM, David Knecht wrote: I had trouble starting my Universal M-430 yesterday and eventually realized that it was having trouble turning over the engine because it was actually in gear when I thought it was in neutral (plus my batteries were weak after sitting for 3 weeks). This is the second time this has happened, and it is because the shift lever is very sticky and hard to move, so it is very hard to tell where neutral is. Is this likely the cable needing replacement, or is there something on the engine/transmission I can lubricate or tweak to try and make it smoother? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Forespar Marelon lube
I stand corrected. However, Forespar has this to say about their own brand, Marelube: MareLube Valve™ has been refined by Forespar to suit the needs of boaters for the lubrication of marine valves and seacocks of any material, metal or composite. Very importantly, MareLube is not petroleum based so it will not degrade seals and O rings. All marine valves require regular lubrication and regular activation of the handle. MareLube operates over a wide temperature range from Tropical to Arctic conditions. Apply liberally to valves seals, balls and any other moving parts. I'm sticking with my PTFE grease just in case. On 15 June 2013 09:42, Chuck S wrote: > FYI, I've been lubing my Forespar Marelon seacocks while on the hard once > a year, with MacLube SailKote, so I I googled this to learn I was wrong and > Forespar recommends using "waterproof grease (water pump grease, winch > grease) or LanoCote™". Thought I'd share: > > *Marelon® - Marine Grade Plumbing Systems Valve Lubrication* > > > > As a follow up to previous Tech Tips; it is important to know that while * > Marelon®* fixings are corrosion resistant, they do require *twice > yearly*lubrication maintenance. These valves should be activated on a regular > schedule. The handle should be moved throughout the open/close path every > thirty days. Leaving a valve open or closed without moving the handle can > cause freeze-up. This is true of any valve, including bronze. The law of > nature is "use it or loose it". > > > To lubricate ball valves and seacocks while the boat is in the water you > must: > > > 1. Close valve. > 2. Remove hose from tailpipe. > 3. Remove remaining water from valve/tailpipe. > 4. Swab waterproof grease (water pump grease, winch grease) or LanoCote™, > generously, on ball. > 5. Reattach hose, checking for fatigue and rusted hose clamps. > 6. Activate valve a few times. When boat is hauled, you can perform steps > 4-6 from outside the hull to lubricate opposite side of ball and seals. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > -- > *From: *"Jim Watts" > *To: *"1 CnC List" > *Sent: *Saturday, June 15, 2013 12:20:29 PM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Cockpit drain valve thru-hull > > The only time you should need to close it is if the hose comes apart. > Cockpit drains are usually left open all the time, especially when you're > not on the boat. > It's probably a Marelon fitting, if you remove the hose you can lube the > top of the ball *when it's in the closed position*. This means you will > have to close it to work on it. I carry a 15" piece of iron pipe as an > extension helper for seacock levers. For lubing Marelon you should use a > non-petroleum grease. I use Starbrite PTFE grease, also available as Snap & > Zipper Lube. > If the fitting really refuses to open you may have to haul out to see > what's blocking it. Marelon can get stiff but I have never seen it bind. > > > On 15 June 2013 09:11, Patrick Wesley wrote: > >> Newly installed in 2007 this now so stiff that I can't close it, although >> I used to remember to close it and open it again on a regular basis. Looks >> as if it is plastic. Anyway to unfreeze it short of haul-out? >> >> Also, when and why would I need to close it? Legal requirement? >> >> Patrick Wesley, C&C 24 The Boat, Sidney BC >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> On 2013-06-15, at 8:04 AM, Indigo wrote: >> >> Thank you. Perfect >> >> -- >> Jonathan >> Indigo C&C 35III >> SOUTHPORT CT >> >> On Jun 15, 2013, at 10:49, Ken Heaton wrote: >> >> Jonathan, >> >> The listed I (and ISP) dimension for the 35 Mk.II is 47' so it will be >> about 1 1/2' less thank that. Close enough? >> >> Ken H. >> >> >> On 15 June 2013 11:33, Indigo wrote: >> >>> Do any 35mkIII owners know off-hand the height if the mast from the top >>> of the coach roof. My masthead flag halyard broke end of last season and I >>> stupidly threw away the pieces without measuring them! >>> >>> -- >>> Jonathan >>> Indigo C&C 35III >>> SOUTHPORT CT >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > > > -- > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Stus-List Cockpit drain valve
Thanks Jim, Chuck, very helpful. Patrick -- Patrick H. Wesley 4068 Licorice Lane, Victoria BC Canada V8X 0A2 1 250 370 0547; mobile 1 250 380 8959 hickl...@telus.net ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Smelling Fuel After The Engine Runs
Just went through the same problem this year (it started last fall)> It turned out to be the 2 clamps on the line from the racor to the engine had loosened up a bit and the line was slowly leaking. There wasn't enough room to see that area very well so I bought a good size mirror to inspect the area more closely. Tightened things up and problem solved. (got lucky !!) Gary Kolc "Liberty" 1976 38' MK I Ryan Raber wrote: > Edd, If the engine runs and your tank is below the engine its likely not on > the suction/inlet side of the engine mounted fuel pump. I seem to recall you > have a 3GM Yanmar? Last year the aft injector supply nut slacked up and did > the same thing to me. It is hard to see because the air silencer is in the > way and the fuel drains off behind the starter. At any rate its from the > fuel pump on down the line. Check all the return line piping. RR > > Ryan Raber > SCAPA C&C 34/36r #9 > Falmouth, Maine > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
