Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Bill Connon]

Sam Salter wrote:

Your talking about a mast gate - like this:
http://www.beneteau235.com/f235_mods-mast_gate.htm
sam :-)

On 2012-11-17, at 8:32 PM, Bill Connon  wrote:



 Sam,

That looks even better than the one that I hatched up!

Bill
Caprice 1 - C&C 36
New Richmond, Qc.

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Re: Stus-List missing sail track?

[Wally Bryant]

Eric - I think it's common for that spar, and always assumed that the 
mast was designed for a rope luff.  A lot of folks have made a cover for 
the slot to keep the slides in the track.  I did this: 
 
Fiberglass turned out to be a little too flexible, though, and I had to 
tap another couple of screws into the spar.


Wal

Eric Frank wrote:

When I was having measurements taken for a new mainsail, the sailmaker commented that 
the sail track on my 1972 CC 35 mk2 begins nearly a foot above the boom. 



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Re: Stus-List missing sail track?

[dwight veinot]

Wally

I looked at the photos of what you did.  The mast on Stella Blue appears to
be quite different from the mast on my 35 MKII.  On my boat the gate is
about a foot above the gooseneck and only about 2 inches long and it has to
be opened to install or remove the slugs for the main sail.  I think my mast
may be more like the one on Eric's 35 MKII.  I use that little $10 thing
that you say went kerplunk to stop the slugs from falling down to and out
the gate.  The lower most slugs, I would say about 6 but I would need to
unpack the sail and count them to be sure of how many, are attached to the
sail on a continuous line that goes through the grommets and the slugs, so
those slugs are not sewn into the grommets so they can all fall down the
track and stack on top of each other when the halyard is released, either to
lower sail all the way or to reef.  When packing the sail the lower most
slug in the stack therefore starts at that stopper which is a little more
than a foot above the gooseneck, so that puts the head of the sail when
packed with all of its slugs one on top of the other about a foot or so
higher than it would be if the lower most slug fell to gooseneck level.
That extra foot makes it a stretch for vertically challenged people to put
the sail cover on the mast above the head of the sail and also a stretch to
fasten or release the halyard shackle at the head.  I can reach a bit higher
than required but as I grow older and shrink the stretch gets harder every
year.  I like the way the system works as is so if I were to change things I
would look to installing some sort of step at the base of the mast rather
than close the gate with the type of fix you and others have described.

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: November 18, 2012 7:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List missing sail track?

Eric - I think it's common for that spar, and always assumed that the 
mast was designed for a rope luff.  A lot of folks have made a cover for 
the slot to keep the slides in the track.  I did this: 
 
Fiberglass turned out to be a little too flexible, though, and I had to 
tap another couple of screws into the spar.

Wal

Eric Frank wrote:
> When I was having measurements taken for a new mainsail, the sailmaker
commented that the sail track on my 1972 CC 35 mk2 begins nearly a foot
above the boom. 


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Re: Stus-List 1981 Gel Coat Color

[Graham Collins]

Hi Jonathan
I borrowed an Awlgrip color card from the local outfit that originally 
painted Secret Plans - they were a bit embarrassed that they did not 
have a record of what colors they used.


I'd call it a 5 foot repair - can't be noticed from > 5 feet away.

I don't think it applies to you, but a comment for any Canadians looking 
for touch-up paint.  The Awlgrip site says US orders only...  so I 
called them, my plan was to get a friend in the US to re-ship it to me.  
The nice lady said they do ship to Canada, just that their web site 
won't accept the order for some reason.  Paint arrived two days later...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


Indigo wrote:

Anyone got any tips on patching awl grip. I have a number of deep scratches and 
the bottom edge of the transom to repair. The awl grip was put on by a PO so I 
don't even know what its original color was. I see from the Awkgrip website 
that they offer patch-up quantities of a very limited range if colors. There is 
a blue (flag blue) but I have no idea if that matches closely my hull

Jonathan
Indigo 35-III


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Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Alan Bergen]

I tried doing what Bill suggested, adding metal strips to narrow the gap, but 
the slugs bent the stainless strips out of shape, and the slugs pulled free of 
the mast. I mounted the strips with five screws, and that still wasn't enough 
to prevent the strips from bending. The wide opening in my mast is about 
sixteen inches long. The slugs on my main are round to fit in the mast slot, 
with a flat section on the outside to keep the slug from jamming in the slot. 
Slugs with just the round section jammed and made it difficult to raise and 
lower the sail. I could use a longer slug (someone suggested outhaul slugs), 
but that would make the head of the main too high to attach the halyard. I'm 5' 
11", and with my present setup I have to step on the spinnaker halyard winch in 
order to attach the main halyard. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

--- Begin Message ---

Alan Bergen wrote:

Eric:

The track on my boat is similar to yours.  When I reef, I remove the 
pin that keeps the slugs from dropping off the track, slack the 
halyard allowing the slugs to drop out of the track, attach the 
reefing cringle to the "horns" at the forward end of the boom, and 
tighten the main halyard.  It's a PITA, but having slugs makes it 
easier to drop the main when single-handing.  Another choice is to 
have a rope luff on your main instead of slugs, or install a fast 
track system, such as sold by Tides Marine.  Go to www.tidesmarine.com 
and click on SailTrack Systems.  They're expensive, but it's on my 
list of things to upgrade.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




 Alan,

To fix the problem, I made up 2 strips of stainless steel approx. 6"X 
1.25". I formed them to the shape of the mast and then pop riveted them 
in place so that a gap was left the same width as the sail track. When 
taking a reef, the slugs are all held in place by the slot extension. At 
the end of the season I drill out the pop rivets and put my strips aside 
for the next season. It works great for reefs and also makes flaking the 
sail easier.


Bill
Caprice 1 - C&C 36
New Richmond, Qc.


--- End Message ---
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Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Bill Connon]

Alan Bergen wrote:
I tried doing what Bill suggested, adding metal strips to narrow the 
gap, but the slugs bent the stainless strips out of shape, and the 
slugs pulled free of the mast.  I mounted the strips with five screws, 
and that still wasn't enough to prevent the strips from bending.  The 
wide opening in my mast is about sixteen inches long.  The slugs on 
my  main are round to fit in the mast slot, with a flat section on the 
outside to keep the slug from jamming in the slot.  Slugs with just 
the round section jammed and made it difficult to raise and lower the 
sail.  I could use a longer slug (someone suggested outhaul slugs), 
but that would make the head of the main too high to attach the 
halyard.  I'm 5' 11", and with my present setup I have to step on the 
spinnaker halyard winch in order to attach the main halyard.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




 Alan,

My first attempt was with aluminum moulding material but it was not 
rigid enough. The next try was with 1/8" thick SS and it has done the 
job with 3 pop rivets for many seasons.


Bill
Caprice 1  C&C 36
New Richmond, Qc.

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Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Dennis C.]

http://www.mastgates.com/

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS

[Steve Thomas]

"Official" Yanmar dealers are territorial, and are not allowed to ship to 
customers outside of their territory. I live in Ontario,
and the Michigan dealer with a large online presence is not allowed to ship 
parts to me. That is not to say that other channels
are not available, but Yanmar tries to make it difficult.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2012 5:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS


That's better than I can do.


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2012-11-16, at 18:41, dre...@gmail.com wrote:


Hi,


I just wanted to point out that many of the Yanmar exhaust parts are available 
at much more reasonable price.   For example, the
common mixing elbow (124070-13520 Mixing Elbow) which  Bob pointed out lists 
for $270, can be purchased much cheaper from several
vendors.   I purchased one recently for $69.95 from MMI Seattle.






See:


http://www.mmiseattle.com/e/manifolds_e_hge_yanmar.htm
   and here for more details
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/YAN-D-EXH/Exhaust+Parts+for+Yanmar+Diesel+Inboards








-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


On Nov 16, 2012, at 5:23 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


  Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2012 13:56:30 -0400
  From: Robert Abbott 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow pluggage question/survey
  Message-ID: <50a67e4e.60...@eastlink.ca>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

  Rich et al:

  When I quoted $533 for the whole assembly I meant 4 pieces not just
  one...those being, 128370-13610 Elbow = $208.62; 104214-13580 Joint =
  $46.06; 128370-13201 Gasket = $7.87; 124070-13520 Mixing Elbow = $270.93;

  I would be interested however in getting your quote info on the mixing
  elbow with the water inlet that connects the 2" hose to the muffler
  Regards
  Bob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.


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