Panna Cotta
FOR DESSERT, NO EGGS ALLOWED
By MARK BITTMAN
Panna Cotta may be an Italian invention, but the idea of thickening
sweetened cream with gelatin has spread far and wide.
The almond-flavored pudding known as blancmange is one good example,
and the Caribbean tembleque, which uses coconut milk, is another.
These are all eggless custards, and panna cotta (which means cooked
cream) is the most pure, simple and delightful version.
If you can get good cream, preferably local and fresh, the flavor is
unbeatable. If the cream is bland, you might consider using a
stronger flavoring than the vanilla I use here: a little orange
flower water, maybe, an Earl Grey or jasmine tea bag, some almond
extract or a few lavender flowers. Any light flavor in you might add
to ice cream will work in panna cotta.
The original is unbeatable, though, and amazingly foolproof.
The gelatin used is essentially glue, but it works time after time,
with little judgment required of the cook. Make sure it dissolves
fully and you will have no lumps or granules in your smooth panna
cotta.
Once you have made the dessert a few times, you can begin to play
with the amount of gelatin you use.
One envelope is two teaspoons; if you prefer a slightly stiffer
concoction, add another teaspoon (not the two tablespoons suggested
by some recipes, which will give you cement). If your cream is really
thick, try just over a teaspoon. This will yield a dreamy, ethereal
concoction that is incredibly light.
One other trick: panna cotta can be used as a base for an ice cream
that requires no churning. Make the recipe below and freeze it for
several hours or overnight. Let it soften for 15 to 30 minutes at
room temperature and you have something close to what used to be
called Philadelphia-style ice cream. Not bad, and almost no work.
Panna Cotta
===========
3 cups cream, or 1 1/2 cups cream and 1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1 package (1/4 ounce) unflavored gelatin
1 teaspoon vanilla extract (or to taste) or 1 vanilla bean
1/2 cup sugar
1. Put 1 cup cream in a medium saucepan and sprinkle gelatin over it;
let sit for 5 minutes. Turn heat to low and cook, stirring, until
gelatin dissolves completely.
2. If using vanilla extract, add remaining cream and sugar to gelatin
mixture and heat gently, just until sugar dissolves; add vanilla
and proceed to Step 3. If using vanilla bean, cut it in two,
lengthwise. Scrape out seeds; add seeds and bean pod to pot, along
with the sugar and remaining cream. Cook over medium heat,
stirring, until steam arises. Turn off heat, cover, and let steep
for 15 to 30 minutes.
3. Remove vanilla bean, if you used it. Pour mixture into 4 large or
6 small custard cups. Chill until set, about 4 hours. Serve in
cups, or dip cups in hot water for about 10 seconds, then invert
onto plates. Serve within 24 hours. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
~To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.
-Sugar
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