Hi Maverick;

The system used a Victron 1200 VA Phoenix Inverter, open loop with voltage set points.  All of this fairly new to me, using blue tooth to program the inverter, having to have a hot spot to provide internet.  I even recently had to buy a budget PC laptop, since I had Macs, which are not compatible with any of this Chinese equipment.  Including the DC power supply to dark start these things, I've got a $1000 in special tools to service LiPO4.

After decades of great service from Trace, Outback, Magnum, and Midnite, I can't wait to retire with all these new head aches related to firmware mismatch, etc. I assume an AI robot will be replacing me in a couple of years.

Ray

On 9/3/2025 3:12 PM, Maverick Brown via RE-wrenches wrote:
This brings me back to a question I was trying to get data on…

Not just specific to HomeGrid, but what Inverter was being used in this case? Was it open loop or closed loop? If open loop, was it inverter driven % based or  inverter driven Voltage based?

Recently, I had a long intermittent technical issue with a pair of Sol-Ark inverters that was using open loop but percentage based and it kept crashing out because the Simpliphi Battery BMS was at zero SOC when the inverter thought there was something left.

I added a Victron SmartShunt to monitor and found that Inverter Percentage was not charging to the proper voltage (high enough to fill all the batteries). I switched to Voltage control and now all is well. Even the chart data on the inverter would show low voltage situations and would explain the situation. I just hadn’t even looked at the data deeply enough.

I wonder if Percent Closed Loop control is better than Percent Open Loop control or are we leaving energy on the table?

Let me know what you think?

Maverick

Maverick Brown
Off-Grid Solar Commander since 2006
*Maverick Solar Enterprises, Inc.*
* • Solar Commander Remote Power*
* • SunFlow Systems Cathodic Protection
*[email protected]
512-460-9825

On Sep 3, 2025, at 3:55 PM, Ray Walters via RE-wrenches <[email protected]> wrote:

I have one Home Grid system out here; its in their outdoor enclosure with built in battery heating.  I've had more call backs in the past year with that system than all my other off grid systems combined.  I've struggled with getting the right LVD settings, and even with decent settings, it seems the battery heating and the no load draw of the BMS will go ahead and drag the battery into shut down, requiring a trip out.  I have a small variable DC power supply which has been very important in the new days of LiPO4.  I run it on a Ryobi inverter.

One of the times I went out, the system was not shut down, but the HomeGrid screen was blank, and I had to reboot the battery to get it back on.  I also experienced the BMS shutdown others mentioned, when one of the 4 batteries was out of EQ with the other batteries.  Even the initial startup was a nightmare, requiring a tech to take over my computer remotely, and then a month later, I had to sit out there for 3 hours while it came to full charge so I could bring the 4th battery back on line.  At least their Tech Support was really good.

Also their outdoor enclosure is really chinzy, it takes over 30 stainless screws to attach the 2 halves together, and many of those screws have galled  and are unusable.  I even had to cut a couple off just to get in to service the battery.

Ray
Remote Solar

On 9/3/2025 11:18 AM, Jason Szumlanski via RE-wrenches wrote:
Nothing like a coincidence...

A client on an island with three stacks of 8 HomeGrid batteries has just called me to report that the entire system is down. All of the battery BMS module displays are dark. I have mySolArk data from three inverters there that show the batteries were topped off and just idling along with solar covering the load at 5:00 pm last night when the power suddenly went out, killing the Starlink connection. I'm going for a boat ride tomorrow to check it out. Ugh.

I will report my findings. Not sure if it's a battery or inverter issue, but the customer's handyman reported nothing on the battery screens, which seems strange to me. Even an error should not turn the display off, as far as I recall.

P.S. No power loss notifications from Sol-Ark is a frustrating loss of functionality. I heard a rumor on Facebook that they are fixing this in mySolArk this month, but I'm not holding my breath.


Jason Szumlanski
Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group
NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)
Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956
Florida Certified Electrical Contractor EC13013208


On Tue, Sep 2, 2025 at 4:31 PM Jason Szumlanski <[email protected]> wrote:

    We have some stacks of HomeGrid out there in various capacities,
    from the smallest with five in a stack, up to four fully
    populated stacks of eight. In total, I oversee around 150
    Stack'd batteries, including many that I installed and some that
    were installed by others. I will say that they are easy to
    install, have a nice bold visual interface, look good, and
    perform up to expectations. They communicate flawlessly with
    Sol-Ark 15k. However...

    I believe there is a fundamental design flaw in this stackable
    battery architecture. Here is why I am no longer offering
    HomeGrid in a nutshell:

      * When one battery in a stack has a fault, the entire stack
        faults out, which renders the stack non-functional until you
        either:
         1. Remove the battery from the stack or turn the circuit
            breaker off, and:
         2. Reconfigure all of the dip switches to remove the
            battery from the communication loop, then:
         3. Reprogram the master BMS to recognize the new stack
            members and their positions.
      * If you have multiple stacks, you have to do all of the
        above, and in addition:
         1. Remove a battery from each additional stack to balance
            them, then perform all of the above steps on each stack.
         2. But before you reprogram each master BMS you have to
            take the stacks out of parallel communication, then
            reprogram the parallel stacks before operation again.
         3. Making each stack equal is per HomeGrid support, but in
            practice, I don't know if it is necessary, especially if
            you are losing one of eight (12.5%). If you have smaller
            stacks, this might be a bigger issue.
      * To diagnose a battery issue with a laptop and cable and get
        warranty support, you can only do that with the master BMS
        because each battery does not have a comm port. That means
        you have to have the entire stack non-functional while you
        perform diagnostics, which is not ideal for off-grid
        settings, especially if there is only one stack.
      * If a battery fails to balance and becomes depleted, causing
        a fault, there are no simple terminal bolts to connect an
        external charger. I'm not sure how you would even
        accomplish a manual charge without opening up the case.

    The EG4 server rack batteries work in a fundamentally different
    way. Each battery has an independent BMS. When there is an alarm
    in a stack or stacks of batteries, the entire battery bank does
    not fault out. You can physically take a battery out of the
    stack without changing any dip switches on the other batteries.
    You can shut one down or experience a fault on one battery
    without any others shutting down. I have tried this with the
    LifePower4 batteries, even when there are multiple communication
    strings of 16 batteries connected to a communication hub. The
    rest of the batteries just keep on working, which is the way it
    should be! The communication hub will just show zero values for
    the battery that is missing from the stack. I cannot confirm if
    this is the case with the LL batteries, but I suspect it would
    be. In a way, this is like having the batteries in an open loop
    in terms of resilience, with all of the benefits that
    closed-loop battery communications offers. I have had a small
    variety of battery issues with EG4, and not once has the whole
    bank of batteries been affected by one battery's issue.

    Side note about another server rack option: I can confirm that
    Pytes Ebox V1 batteries in a communication stack will shut down
    all batteries if one has a fault, at least confirmed by one
    situation I had. This is despite each battery having it's own
    BMS and console port to communicate with the batteries. The
    situation in my case was a battery that had no "Barcode"
    programmed into it, which was causing a parallel
    communication fault and shutting down the whole stack. In this
    case, physically bypassing the battery with the issue with a
    Cat5 coupling worked fine. There are no dip switches to set, and
    the master battery reconfigures the communication stack
    automatically. With Pytes' support, I was able to manually code
    in the Barcode to the BMS with a console cable, and the problem
    went away. I am not sure if all varieties of faults would have
    the same effect with Pytes EBoxes, but this communication issue
    definitely caused the whole stack to fault out.


    The phenomenon of the new breed of LFP batteries lacking
    reliability/redundancy inspired a blog post that I did just a
    couple of weeks ago:
    
https://floridasolardesigngroup.com/homegrid-stackd-batteries-the-redundancy-fallacy


    A couple of other notes on HomeGrid:

      * They do not have any way to connect conduit to the BMS. You
        wouldn't want to anyway, especially with rigid conduit,
        since you might need to remove the BMS for service. The BMS
        should be at the bottom, in my opinion, for this reason. You
        can only run positive and negative battery cables out of the
        provided strain relief glands in free air, and it requires
        that the batteries be about 4 inches away from the wall.
        There is no suitable way to protect 100% of the battery cables.
      * Along the same lines, if you ever plan to expand the system,
        make sure you leave enough battery cable length to reach a
        higher level.
      * The lack of busbars is a really nice feature (until you get
        into larger systems).
      * The discharge rate supports the maximum input for a Sol-Ark
        15K with, I believe, just three batteries.
      * I love their "busbar pair" designed specifically for the
        Sol-Ark 15K. I order a pair with every inverter, regardless
        of what battery I am using (although I am not actively
        selling Sol-Ark right now).
      * You can't monitor the condition of individual batteries with
        Solar Assistant, or any other tool remotely to my knowledge.
        You can't even monitor the condition of paralleled stacks.
      * The "app" for the batteries is mind-bendingly useless –
        unless I'm really missing something.
      * For some firmware and hardware versions, over-the-air
        updates are not possible, and HomeGrid will need to send you
        an update tool. To be fair, I think this is also the case
        with EG4 and some other manufacturers.
      * Once we received a shipment where three of eight batteries
        were in the right boxes, but there were no guts in the
        batteries at all! It was just an empty steel battery shell.
        We had to send them back to our supplier. The boxes
        actually said 13 Kg on the labels rather than 52 Kg, but
        nobody at the factory caught it. Strange.
      * HomeGrid Support is very competent, I would say among the
        best in terms of knowing their products inside and out, but
        it's 50/50 whether I get someone on the phone or get a call
        back in a timely manner that allows me to complete a service
        call. They are willing to schedule assistance if you have an
        off-grid situation that requires help.


    Is this a vote for EG4? Not necessarily, but it's hard to argue
    with the price and the superior reliability/redundancy aspects
    of the LifePower4/LL batteries. One battery fault should not
    shut down an entire system unless there is a legitimate safety
    hazard. It's possible that these are UL issues that require
    system shutdowns, but EG4 appears to have overcome the problems
    I've seen with other manufacturers' products.

    Like others mentioned, I prefer to go with the 14.3 kWh / 16 kWh
    sealed batteries. I feel they have better build quality (other
    than my recent rant about rust on the MNP PowerFlo16), and
    keeping components sealed up better just makes sense to me,
    especially in challenging environments. Of course, if you want
    more modularity in terms of expansion options and less impact if
    a single unit goes down, 5 kWh units might be a better option.
    There is no right or wrong option, I guess – sometimes it just
    comes down to priorities, space, mounting options, and price.


    Jason Szumlanski
    Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group
    NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)
    Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956
    Florida Certified Electrical Contractor EC13013208


    On Tue, Sep 2, 2025 at 10:41 AM Christopher Warfel via
    RE-wrenches <[email protected]> wrote:

        Hi Wrenches, I went through the archives and read the
        comparison between
        these two.  The HomeGrid manual was in such a mess (or my
        pdf reader was
        defunct), that I started looking at other options. If anyone
        has a
        strong opinion of either of these two, or something better,
        I would
        appreciate.  We traditionally install small systems, and
        this would be
        one (@15kWh).  I would prefer to use a racking system with
        the BMS as
        part of the packaging. Solark 12kPV multimode.  Thank you, Chris

-- Christopher Warfel, PE
        ENTECH Engineering, Inc.
        PO Box 871, Block Island, RI 02807
        (401) 447-5773

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