Friends: So I tried the experiment below. The board looked pristine when I set it out in the sun to dry but one hour later it looks terrible! It is covered top and bottom by a white, powdery residue. I'll get a photo up on my website.
But...... It works!!!! The inverter is cobbled together on my tailgate quietly humming. Granted this problem has been intermittent all along so I am still skeptical. If I were to do it again I'd skip the alcohol and dry it slowly and carefully. It is amazing how resilient electronics can be. I even laundered my Bluetooth. I will let you know after I install it if it stop works. William On Aug 15, 2013, at 4:33 PM, Exeltech <exelt...@yahoo.com> wrote: > William, > > Urine is conductive, and apparently has formed some unwanted electrical > pathways between components. This conductivity could easily continue after > the board has "dried" due to humidity in the air. > > If the need is dire, you can try the following: > > You will need two 9" x 12" ceramic ("Pyrex" etc.) cake pans (or of a size > appropriate for the PCB); a gallon of *steam distilled* water (not > de-ionized, not "purified", but >steam distilled<); and some 91% rubbing > alcohol (the 70% variety has too much water content): > > 1) Remove the contaminated PC boards from the inverter. > > 2) If there are no water-sensitive components (where water ingress would be > problematic), wash (agitate) the board gently in a ceramic pan filled with > approx 1/2" to 1" of *steam distilled* water. Nothing less. Water depth > should be adequate to submerge and cover the affected area. Do this for > approximately 10 minutes. The objective is to dissolve the contaminants. > This can take time, especially if in tight areas between components where > water doesn't readily circulate. > > 3) Remove the PCB from the distilled water. > > 4) Gently rinse the PCB in another ceramic pan filled with sufficient alcohol > to at least partially cover the PCB components. The objective here is to > displace the distilled water. > > 5) Put the PCB in a *LIGHTLY* warm oven or a sunny warm location. Allow the > alcohol to completely evaporate. This may take time (an hour or more), as > the alcohol may have entered various tight areas on the PCB where air doesn't > readily penetrate. > > 6) Once dry, reinstall the PCB in the inverter .. and hope. > > Follow normal precautions for work with AC power and for static electricity > abatement. Be wary of any large high-voltage capacitors that may have > retained some charge. > > Also .. more than one PCB may be affected. > > > And as always .. do so at your own risk. > > Dan Lepinski > Industry Veteran > > -------------------------------------------- > On Thu, 8/15/13, Allan Sindelar <al...@positiveenergysolar.com> wrote: > > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Mouse pee in the SW > To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> > Date: Thursday, August 15, 2013, 5:39 PM > > > William, > > I don't have a definitive answer, but I doubt it's either display or chipset; > more likely in the boards. The chips are EEPROMs that contain programming for > the firmware; unless there's a bad socket connection from the pee, they won't > be affected. The display is pretty much self-contained within its plastic > case, and not where the corrosive pee is likely to end up. I'd more suspect > circuit board troubles, but I can't tell you which ones. > > Allan > > Allan Sindelar > al...@positiveenergysolar.com > NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional > NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional > New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician > Founder and Chief Technology Officer > Positive Energy, Inc., a Certified B CorporationTM > 3209 Richards Lane > Santa Fe, New Mexico 87507 > 505 424-1112 office 780-2738 cell > www.positiveenergysolar.com > > > > > > On 8/15/2013 3:36 PM, William Miller wrote: > > Friends: > > I had a mouse take up residency in an SW inverter (SW4024). > > It peed on the top circuit board and chewed on one wire, at least that we > found. We have had this happen before and solved the problem by cleaning and > drying. > > > This time the mouse pee was minimal and cleaned off easily and what appeared > to be throughly. However we can't get the inverter to work reliably. > Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. The overload light is solid > and the error light flashes. The controls work on some menus and not on > others. If I shut the inverter down it won't come back on. > > I take off the cover, look around, connect and disconnect ribon cables and it > comes back on, only to go out a day later. > > I have a spare display and chipset. I am considering changing out one then > the other. > > Any adivce would be appreciated. > > As always, I am very grateful to all of you. It seems I have been receiving > more advice than I have been giving lately so I look forwards to the > opportuntiy to reciprocate. > > Sincerely, > > William Miller > > _______________________________________________ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org