I have the T8 LEDs in my house and garage, I've had them running for a year or so, I'm not home to check the brand, but I really like them for the shop, especially come winter. I'm by no means a lighting retrofit guy, so maybe I just bought into a tech to soon, but they seem to work good for me.
Jesse Sent from my iPad!!! On Dec 5, 2012, at 3:53 PM, Mick Abraham <m...@abrahamsolar.com> wrote: > Hi, Knuckle-Busters~ > > It's lighting retrofit time and also time for me to review "what I thought I > knew" about various lighting technologies. > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Round one of the conversion involves >>well known RV brand<< T8 tubular > fluorescent fixtures (3' long single tube). These have 24vDC ballasts which > (in various brands) have failed way too often...and the tubes also are > failing too soon. > > I've mostly decided to convert the circuits to good ol' American AC instead > of DC, then I gotta select ballasts (to stay fluor) or convert to LED. Some > of the List members handle lighting retrofits for better energy efficiency, > etc. so I need a refresher course. > > +++++++++++++++++++++++ > > For AC ballasts, I'm focusing on the "Programmed Start" type which seem less > destructive to the tubes when cycled on and off frequently. I could drive > three tubes with one ballast but then a single bulb failure sends the whole > group to black since the tubes connect in series. > > Is there a way to test a fluorescent tube using a volt-ohmmeter or other > non-exotic method? The cost benefit of sharing a ballast among three fixtures > goes smaller if it's a hassle at lamp replacement time. A failed ballast > would be tricky to spot with three lamps adding more variables. > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > I see there are now T8 tubular LED lamps which of course deliver more lumens > per watt and of course they are still costly. With no ballast to buy, if I > compared devoting a $25 ballast to each fixture against converting to a $50 > LED tube, "it's only double the cost" to go LED. > > Is LED now ready for prime time? I got on that band wagon too early because > the "white light" units were moonlight blue, they seemed dimmer than a > flashlight, color rendition was poor, and worst of all: > > My early LED purchases stopped working properly >>as should not be the case > if LED is done right.<< Admittedly, my early LED buys were--don't get me > started--designed for DC and I think the battery voltage fluctuation may play > havoc with LED and also with the DC fluorescent ballasts. > > Final question: how could I be sure that new LED lights won't "roach out" in > a few years? My untrained eye has never helped me avoid crummy tech before, > so I guess it comes down to identifying one (or more) major manufacturer, > maybe with a long warranty and a good likelihood of staying in business. > > My friends and I must stop buying junk that's going to break--even if it is > all hyped up about being the "New Latest Environmentally Correct Energy > Saver". Those >>well known RV brand<< fluorescents are a case in point to say > nothing of round two: DC driven CFL's! > > Thanks & Jolliness, > > Mick Abraham, Proprietor > www.abrahamsolar.com > > Voice: 970-731-4675 > > _______________________________________________ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org >
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