HI Mark; Where do you get the lead plated lugs? We used to special order tin plated lugs from Del City, but they quit carrying them. I found that the grease or vaseline coating was the most important issue, though. Tin plated lugs would corrode just like the unplated ones, except they first would lose their plating. Lead plated lugs might just be the ticket, except you would still have to keep the corrosion from creeping up under the heat shrink to the copper cable. I've had cables with corrosion going up the cable strands for over 6" past the lug. And yes we use heat shrink with the sealing adhesive inside; the corrosion just travels right under it along the surface of the metal. I actually found electrical tape seals better, it just doesn't look near as good, so we still use heat shrink, and coat over the heat shrink with the vaseline (or grease).
R. Walters [email protected] Solar Engineer On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:09 AM, Mark Frye wrote: > I recently worked with a telecom specification that required lead plated > copper lugs on the battery side and I have been using the same on my own > systems for some time now. > > How important is it to use lead plated lugs on the battery side? Is tin > plated copper just as good so long as you coat well with grease etc.? > > Mark Frye > Berkeley Solar Electric Systems > 303 Redbud Way > Nevada City, CA 95959 > (530) 401-8024 > www.berkeleysolar.com > > > From: [email protected] > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Glenn Burt > Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 6:03 PM > To: 'RE-wrenches' > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery Cable REvistied > > Hi Ray, > > I have for my last 2 battery jobs used the Cobra X-Flex in 2/0 size with MTW > rating. > > At the battery end I have found the Thomas & Betts 54163-TB lugs, available > at my local Grainger store to be a good match both mechanically and > specification wise (also the correct hole size for M8 terminals in my > Concorde AGM’s). > On the usual electrical equipment end, I use a Greaves Shoo-Pin PT131FX20 as > the appropriate reducer to a THHN stranding #2/0 size (available through our > local Graybar store, drop shipped to my office). Because I am using a Sunny > Island, of course nothing #2 fits… so I have two Polaris style connectors in > the trough below the SI where I switch from the Shoo-Pins to four #1 THHN to > go up into the SI batt terminals (two conductors per pole). > > In fact, I am wrapping up one of these installs right now. > > Don’t know if this helps, > > -Glenn > _______________________________________________ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: [email protected] > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org >
_______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: [email protected] Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
