Friends:
I keep a set of "grit edge" hole
saws.http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Product.aspx?id=CarbidegritHoleSaws
These cut Stucco and plaster without degradation.
If I want to pilot a deep hole, I remove the ~4" pilot bit and chuck in a
bell hanger bit. Linked is an 1/4 by 18" bit that will replace the pilot
bit. Use with care, this is a long skinny bit. http://tinyurl.com/2cnupu3
William Miller
At 01:36 PM 11/19/2010, you wrote:
Having a fair bit of experience with bale, I ditto what Bill mentioned but
I'll add a simple way that I discovered to getting the inside and outside
holes to line up.
Bale walls are seriously thick, so standard extension bits aren't long
enough. I found taking a 2 or foot length of 3/8" rebar chucked into a
half inch drill works nicely for boring a pilot hole all the way through
the wall. Once you have the pilot hole, it's a simple matter of drilling
out a hole large enough for your conduit on both sides of the
wall. Either use a small bit to drill a series of holes around the
perimeter and connect the dots with a cold chisel, or use a hole saw that
you don't mind sacrificing on the plaster. You don't actually have to
"drill" through the entire wall, as the straw can be pushed to the
side. I usually spin the rebar in the hole while chunking it back and
forth a few times to clear a path, then thread the conduit through the
hole using the rebar as a guide to be able to find the hole on the other
side. It really helps to have a second person on the other side, to help
guide it in the final inches.
Rebar as a drill bit also works great with adobe walls.
If you do a lot of this, take a minute to grind down a flat spot on the
end of the bar or it will tear up your drill chuck. Drill chucks can be
spendy. Ask me how I know...
Phil Undercuffler
On Fri, Nov 19, 2010 at 11:27 AM, Bill Hoffer
<<mailto:suneng...@gmail.com>suneng...@gmail.com> wrote:
Benn
I used PVC in the my bale walls with a Junction Box on both sides of the
penetration to protect the penetration (Outside a must!). I used EMT for
all my other wiring, but PVC seems better for an interior to exterior
penetration where the heat conduction of the EMT may cause some damaging
condensation towards the exterior of the bales. I used a hammer drill and
concrete bits to get through my stucco, it is tough stuff. I used 2 "
conduit so I had to make several smaller holes and knock it out by
hand. I did not have rebar in my bales, but heavyduty 6x6 mesh to get
through, as would be expected I never was able to hit the middle of the
grid, I just had to cut and hack saw when I hit something, pays to have a
sacrificial bit to find the metal. I then fashioned a home made bit out
of the conduit and used that to get through the bales by hand. That went
pretty easy and will allow you to locate the rebar without damaging an
expensive bit . Hard part is lining up to get a good mark on the opposite
side. I used foam to fill any gaps, replastered around the pipe and
fitting and caulked really well to seal against water on the outside. I
also located the JB on the outside of the building in a very protected
area for additional security. Water and straw bales do not play well
together! If anything I would favor a slight slope downward on the
outside so if there is a leak it will not follow the pipe inward into the
bales.
Hope that helps!
Bill
On Fri, Nov 19, 2010 at 11:05 AM, benn kilburn
<<mailto:b...@daystarsolar.ca>b...@daystarsolar.ca> wrote:
Wrenches,
Short of contacting the builder, i'm looking for your experiences,
practices and "look-out's" for penetrating a strawbale exterior wall with
conduit.
For the project in question there is currently a teck cable from a wind
gen entering the home by sharing a HRV vent opening that i want to fix
(not my original system by the way) and i will also be adding another
penetration for a PV array that i am relocating on the property. The
original penetration for the PV was done properly but its not in an ideal
location for the re-located array wiring.
I'm wondering if it is as simple as using a hole saw extension to go thru
the ~16" wall and use an LB/box on either side. I'm sure there is some
framework and/or rebar supporting the bales, how do you locate/avoid these
when there are no corners to measure from? (it is a round home)
Any knowledge if PVC or EMT will react in anyway with the bales? I'm
thinking that PVC would be best....?
... i am trying to contact the builder to address this, and also to ask a
few choice questions regarding the wiring methods (he?) used in the
original PV system set-up.
Cheers,
benn
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