I would recommend using Sikaflex 1A. It is about as environmentally sound as a caulking comes. Moisture curing, as well. One other thought (if someone hasnt already mentioned it): put this puppy at the bottom of your string so that the potential difference to ground is a low as possible. - Peter
_____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill Hoffer Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 6:12 PM To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing Brian In my past life working for a module manufacturer, we used Dow Corning PV 804 silicone sealant. It comes in black and white flavors, usually not found off the shelf at Home Depo. I believe it is the standard used by most module manufacturers and the only silicon sealant that meets UL746 Polymeric materials for electrical applications (Insulating tabs electrically). We experimented with many types with similar results, but when UL listing a module you can only use UL listed components (or you get to pay to perform those tests on that material too!). The price of PV 804 reflects the UL listing. You would need to ask a chemist at Dow Corning if it has a different composition than the common off the shelf varieties. It is great stuff, sticks to everything (especially opposite colored pants!) and moves well between two materials that may expand and contract at different rates with varying temperatures, like a module is often exposed to. Bill On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 4:51 PM, Brian Teitelbaum <[email protected]> wrote: I like Blairs idea, but Ive always used a silicone sealant that doesnt use acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a moisture-cure, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a module rep could confirm this with us. Brian Teitelbaum AEE Solar From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Blair May Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM To: 'RE-wrenches' Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing I use a heat gun to remove moisture & smooth out the rip then I've used some bitchathane w/ foil tape over that. I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during curing. -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of bob Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM To: 'RE-wrenches' Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it. Whats the best way to seal it back up? There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5 long and ½ at the widest end. My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the collective brain, so to speak. Thanks, Bob Ellison _______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: [email protected] Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org -- Bill Hoffer PE Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC 2504 Columbia Ave NW East Wenatchee WA 98802-3941 [email protected] (509)470-7762
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