Certainly too much play in the freewheel can cause ghost shifting and so can a loose D ring. But... my experience has been that the longer the derailler hanger the more all of these problems get multiplied. If the cage isn't exactly perpendicular to the cog it increases the chance of a ghost shift and the longer the cage the more a small deviation elsewhere gets problematic. The LX has a very long cage, which is not to say it can't work. I have that derailler on my tandem and it works OK, but it is a significantly longer cage than you need for that set up and is probably multiplying every other minor deviation. I would certainly find out why the cogs weren't running true but I would also opt for a shorter cage.
I run a 44/30 with an 11-28 on my Ram, using a short cage Shimano RD 6700 and get near zero ghost shifts. Michael On Sunday, April 14, 2013 6:36:40 PM UTC-4, Cyclofiend Jim wrote: > > Just to clarify my earlier comment: > > There's "wiggle" which is pretty minor, and most moving parts have some. > I'm talking about "play" which was a noticeably off-axis movement. It's > kind of the difference between a creak and a clunk when you are riding. > One is the signal of a deeper problem. > > And I was really just outlining the variables. The least common is a > freehub that loosens. But, IME, it can occur. I did have one wheelset > (long since recycled) which was prone to loosening. It used cartridge > bearings and I had to retightened the freehub on at least three occasions. > But, it also was my CX hub for a while and had a hard, brutal life. Other > than that, it's been a from-the-factory issue which occurred on a couple o' > wheels. It is much more common that I have cassette lockrings loosen. > And most skipping is a function of drivetrain wear. > > On my Hilsen, the recent issue was the large ring combo with the sixth > rear sprocket which would not stay stuck. Unfortunately, that seems to be > where I am in the habit of ending up at stop lights, and twice put knee > into frame when it popped. Stupid sloth on my part for not dealing with it > when I first noticed it. And I love riding that bike. It's just that I > get spoiled by the simplicity of a fixed/singlespeed setup, which supports > my sloth-based repair schedule. > > As long as I'm admitting to transgressions, when I pulled the chain today > and laid it down on the new one, I was about to remove several links when I > realized that something was daffy. I counted links and they matched for > quantity but certainly not distance. The dozen link pairs measured out at > 12 3/8", which again attests neatly to my sloth. It's a wonder that > anything worked. Yes, the cassette was toast, but I figured that already. > > So, new(ish) cassette, new chain, and a lot of detail scrubbing and that > drivetrain hums like a happy fixed gear again. > > What I get frustrated with is the ever-melting cassette which is the norm > in current drivetrain hardware. Not the bike. ;^) > > - Jim > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
