Lots of good recommendations here.  To troubleshoot, I would follow these 
steps:

- Bike on stand, pedals backwards.  If there is a stiff link, it will 
obviously hang in the pulleys. 
- Eyeball the chain from back/top - make sure there are no protruding pins.
-  With no chain tension, grasp rear sprocket set and wiggle.  There should 
be no movement.  Tighten lockring if movement.   If lockring is tight, it 
may be that the freehub has loosened.  Typically, this needs to be 
tightened into the hub itself when the axle is removed. 
- With the rear wheel removed.  Shift rear derailleur through it's range.  
Put it into the highest tension setting (highest gear on most models) and 
see if it moves without touching, then apply a little pressure with your 
finger to the derailleur body to see if it moves.  If so, increase tension 
at the shifter body with the thumbscrew.  Also, pay attention to the 
movement of the cable as you shift up and down.  There should be no hitches 
or glitches.  Often on a new bike setup, the cable housing tips are not 
completely set, so there can be movement and shifting of the housing, which 
causes cable movement and ghost shifting. There should be only the hint of 
slack when at the lowest tension point - no drooping or sagging cable.  
- Check axle on rear wheel for excessive play.  Adjust cones to eliminate 
or reduce.
- With chain not attached, check front chainrings for "trueness" - i.e. 
lateral movement when you spin cranks.   (Chainring bolts and improperly 
torqued crankarm bolts can be culprit here.)

That ought to get 95% of the issues tracked down.  Housing can definitely 
be a culprit on barend shifter setups, as there are a few places for slack 
to hide.  And absolutely measure the chain - I've swapped chains around and 
then reused the one I was going to trash. 

Hope that helps.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com


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