It's totally OK to use the dogbone brazeon up the chainstay.  That's what 
they put it there for.  Whether the dropout braze on or the dogbone braze 
on is stronger is not super important in my opinion, because I think people 
break the bolt far more often than they break the braze on.  I like the 
dogbone because you can use a much longer bolt, and get more threads 
engaged.  

For the second question, I don't run the Duo, so I can't say anything smart 
about the load capacity with your mod.  I will say that your mod looks 
super clean.  Very nice work.  Longer bolts with spacers like that are more 
susceptible to fatique, because of the lever arm that the spacers create. 
 If you are the least bit worried about it, just carry one or two of those 
long bolts in your tool bag along with your tire levers.  Carrying those 
spares will insure that the originals never break!  :)

On Friday, March 29, 2013 5:00:55 AM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I have a couple of rack-mounting questions...
>
> Firstly, when I was building my Bombadil I completely missed (as in, 
> didn't consider using) the extra braze-ons on the seatstay near the 
> dropout, for getting the rack up a bit higher, and mounted my rear carrier 
> directly to the dropout. As it turns out with large tyres I could use a 
> little more room for the fender below the rack, so I'm thinking I'll try 
> moving the rack up to the braze-ons. Just wondering if attaching to the 
> braze-ons on the stays would lower the carrying capacity at all, compared 
> to mounting on the dropout? My guess is that the dropout eyelets would be 
> stronger than the braze-ons, but I don't know if that's true or not, or if 
> it matters at all in practice.
>
> Second thing is, in the earlier thread about the new Nitto "hub area rack" 
> from Riv, some people mentioned they were using Tubus Duo lowriders. I'm 
> wondering what methods people used to attach these racks to the fork 
> braze-ons on Riv bikes, since the racks are designed for forks with a 
> diameter of 32 mm with a threaded hole through the blade. I've attached a 
> pic below of how I did it. I realise the longer bolts will reduce the 
> breaking load of the rack a little bit but I'm not planning to load up the 
> front panniers much anyway.
>
> I'd like to hear what people think.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
>

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