What is also true is that braking power goes with force on the pads at
the rim, and force at the pads in relation to force at the lever is
the mechanical advantage. Also (regardless of mechanism) mechanical
advantage goes with lever travel. If the ratio of pad movement to
lever movement is the same, then regardless of the mechanism details
the power will be the same. Of course pads can make a significant
difference but you can put most any pad on most any brake so thats not
a credible differentiator either.

One of the key features of V brakes is that the tension in the brake
cable is lower that that in a cantilever, side pull, or dual-pivot
brake. Another, as you note, is that they don't use the cable hangers
that are needed with cantilever and center pull brakes. Also if the
brake cable fails a V brake will stay open where as with cantilevers
if the straddle wire catches on tire nobs it may lock up. All of these
are often considered advantages of the V brake design, though some
(like me) don't think they amount to much.

Cantilevers may offer greater tire and fender clearance, and allow
considerable flexibility in how one chooses to set them up. They also
are compatible with a wide variety of drop bar compatible levers.

What I find really inexplicable is how many folks seem to get so very
wound up about this stuff.

On May 10, 2:10 pm, Jeremy Till <jeremy.t...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I think that there are so many variables with cantilever brakes--arm
> length/type/material, pad type, straddle cable length, distance between
> housing stop and straddle hanger, type of straddle hanger, fork/frame
> stiffness, stiffness of housing stop (this one, i think, is often
> overlooked), brake lever type, etc--that to say that all canti's or even
> all setups of a particular model of canti's will behave uniformly better or
> worse than v-brakes is difficult.  Thus the love/hate variation that we
> seem to be getting here.
>
> What is easier to say, however, is that V-brakes, by locating the housing
> stop on the brake arms and not the frame, as well as the relative
> consistency of v-brake design and dimensions even across different brands
> (mini-v's aside), make them much more consistent their ability to produce a
> good amount of braking force.
>
> That being said, I've certainly been able to set up cantilevers so they
> have the same "surprising" amount of power that v-brakes on a stiff
> frame/fork can produce.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 9, 2012 11:13:04 PM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:
>
> > I'm finding that the CR720 canti brass bushing fits too snugly on the
> > canti posts on my new hunqa.  I can hardly force the brake on the post.  I
> > tried a Deore V-brake and it goes on no problem.   I'm guessing the posts
> > have clear-coat as they look coated shiny.  What is the best way to remove
> > this?  Should I just sand it or is there a good solvent that works for this
> > sort of thing?  I am not seeing this issue on my brief interweb search, so
> > I'm guessing most folks just sand the posts, or I have a strange defective
> > brake set?
>
> > Brian
> > Seattle, WA
>
> On Wednesday, May 9, 2012 11:13:04 PM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:
>
> > I'm finding that the CR720 canti brass bushing fits too snugly on the
> > canti posts on my new hunqa.  I can hardly force the brake on the post.  I
> > tried a Deore V-brake and it goes on no problem.   I'm guessing the posts
> > have clear-coat as they look coated shiny.  What is the best way to remove
> > this?  Should I just sand it or is there a good solvent that works for this
> > sort of thing?  I am not seeing this issue on my brief interweb search, so
> > I'm guessing most folks just sand the posts, or I have a strange defective
> > brake set?
>
> > Brian
> > Seattle, WA

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