I'd agree that chainline doesn't need to be nuts on on a singlespeed
setup, but for fixed gear riding, especially on rough ground (paved or
no), having a chainline that's within 2-3mm is important, not so much
for efficiency as for preventing the chain coming off under high RPM
pedaling.  Had that happen a few times due to bad chainline and it's
not fun.

My multi-gear derailer-less setup uses a Salsa Casseroll frame (nice
long, sloping, front opening, horizontal dropouts) with a single 42t
chairing (on the inboard shoulder of a sugino xd double with a shimano
107mm BB), and a Phil QR flip-flop with a 17-19t dingle fixed cog and
a 22t bailout/downhill freewheel.  The chainline is setup so the
chainring is just between the chainlines of the two dingle cogs
(around 40mm, IIRC).  On the dingle cog the two cogs are even closer
together than on the DOS freewheel, from what I've seen--Surly
recommends (and I use) a narrow 9spd chain. So chainline isn't perfect
there but it is close enough.

Been using this setup or something similar for a few years now and
really like it.  Last weekend I rode it up Mt. Diablo in the 42-19
gear, flipped to the freewheel to bomb the descent, and then back to
the 42-17 fixed at the bottom for the ride back to the BART.  A good
samaritan saw me on the side of the road and asked if i was all right,
and I replied "I'm fine, just shifting gears!"

On May 8, 7:38 pm, "Bill Gibson (III)" <bill.bgib...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Chainline is not an issue, unless you are a mid-century Brit... I run stock
> chainrings, 32/40 and the 17/19 Dos. The limitation on the Quickbeam is my
> Berthoud fender stays, which, strictly speaking, is not a Quickbeam issue.
> They could be longer, to let me use the whole range. Low-profile fasteners
> and a flaring fenderline allow me to use all the combos, but I rarely do. I
> gut things out. Huh. No problem climbing South Mountain in Phoenix, but soon
> I will build a wheel and play with an SRAM 9-speed internal hub... summer
> fun... seriously, you feel drag on the chainline? What about my internal
> gear friction box? Please, get an ergometer or some sort of watt-o-matic
> meter, and quantify that drag! Chainline is an aesthetic issue, not a drag,
> son. Humph... (Please don't get mad, I'm just playin'...)
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 8, 2011 at 5:34 PM, charlie <charles_v...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > It doesn't appear to me that the chain drag would be that
> > noticeable......are you using a regular 8-9 speed chain?
>
> > On May 8, 11:58 am, Ron MH <visio...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > This question is to all. How does the fixed gear side chainline work
> > > out with the various combinations you use? I ask because the fixed
> > > gear chainline on my Quickbeam sucks and the drag/lack of efficiency
> > > is easy to feel. I'm running the stock bashguard/40/32 Sugino triple
> > > combination and a 16t fixed cog in back. The chainline on the 40x16
> > > fixed combination is more than 5mm off (the cog being inboard of the
> > > chainring). And the fixed setup is much more "draggy" than the 40x16
> > > freewheel combination on the other side when using the 16-19 White
> > > Industries DOS freewheel. Of course, that's because the DOS freewheel
> > > places the 16t cog further outboard. The whole issue has me about to
> > > ditch the Sugino triple in favor of a decent single speed crankset.
>
> > > Ron
>
> > > On May 8, 8:50 am, A D <deguzman.al...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > On my Simpleone I have a dos 16/19 on the freewheel side and a 17/19
> > > > surly dingle cog on the fixed side.  In front I have 44/48 rings on
> > > > the front.  I use the 48/16 when I commute and ride down to Rivendell
> > > > and change gears to 44/19 when I go back home which is mostly
> > > > uphill.   I usually flip to the fixed side on weekend rides when I
> > > > don't have anywhere to be.
>
> > > > I haven't tried the extremes of the gears but the dropouts on my
> > > > prototype appear long enough.
>
> > > > There is just something about the Qb/SO that feels so right.  I can't
> > > > figure it out but it has me considering picking up an AHH even though
> > > > I have an Ebisu AR.
>
> > > > On May 7, 6:54 pm, Robert Harrison <rfharri...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > My QB has a 40/32 in front and the 16/19 in the rear. It also has a
> > solo 22 back the which does come in handy when laden down with camping gear
> > and facing a couple of hills around here. In town I tend to run 40/19
> > because I can get "off the line" faster in traffic. Once out on the open
> > road it's back to 40/16.
>
> > > > > Not thinking about what gear I'm in is great. During the week I'm in
> > commuter mode, on weekend it's open road mode and maybe once a quarter I
> > camp.
>
> > > > > Aloha,
>
> > > > > Bob
>
> > > > > Sent from my iPad
>
> > > > > On May 7, 2011, at 11:00 AM, newenglandbike <matthiasbe...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > > > > It is a cool concept, made even cooler, IMHO, by the copious length
> > of
> > > > > > the QB dropout.   It's about 2".     So, whereas with the WI
> > 'double/
> > > > > > double', you get to choose between front rings 3-teeth apart, the
> > > > > > extra length of the Rivendell dropout gives you a mind-boggling
> > span
> > > > > > of 8 teeth to play with on the front rings-- and with the 16/19 in
> > the
> > > > > > rear, you can make that up to 11 teeth diff up front.    Dang.
>
> > > > > > So basically, you can run a 16/19 in the rear, and a 40/32 double
> > up
> > > > > > front, which comes stock with the new Simple One I believe.   Then
> > you
> > > > > > put a 22t ACS f/w on the other side, and suddenly derailleurs start
> > to
> > > > > > look quaint.*
>
> > > > > > -Matt
>
> > > > > > *OK not really
>
> > > > > > On May 7, 4:50 pm, andrew hill <neurod...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > > >> Has anyone run a White Industries "Double/Double" drivetrain setup
> > on their Quickbeam?
> > > > > >> Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?
>
> > > > > >> Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and
> > front of either 38/35 or 34/31.
>
> > > > > >> They suggest the 38/35 for a 26" mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a
> > 29'er... but it seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly
> > on-road riding bike.
>
> > > > > >> Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be
> > better than 31/19 and 34/16...
>
> > > > > >> Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be
> > a great idea? :)
>
> > > > > >> Best,
> > > > > >> andrew
>
> > > > > > --
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> --
> Bill Gibson
> Tempe, Arizona, USA

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