I have an old Trek MTB with a wider Q factor that is absolutely the most comfortable bike I have ever ridden. It sports albatross bars level with the saddle and I use a sprung B66 with it. I have tried to duplicate the fit with several other bikes and have had no luck with my knee comfort etc. until I stuck and oddball wide bottom bracket axle on one bike with a triple XD crank and viola, instant improvement, which led me to do some measuring. Since then I have yet to find a combo that allows good chainline and the wide Q that I need. I thought about some pedal extenders to widen my Q but am concerned that they may place more stress on the crank arm threads......any thoughts on this?
On Sep 25, 1:03 pm, andrew hill <neurod...@gmail.com> wrote: > hi folks, > > i'm looking at building up my next Riv in some road-ish configuration for a > fast/light trainer.. this will probably going to be based on a canti-Rom (or > a Roadeo), and i want to make good choices to help alleviate some knee > problems i've had with my Sam Hillborne. > > the Sam has a Sugino XD2 with 175mm cranks, and i experienced some rather bad > ITB pain on the right side starting 60 miles into a century. at the time i > thought it was because i was clipped into the pedals and didn't have enough > float, and while i do think some cleat mis-adjustment might have contributed, > i've continued to have some minor pain in that knee all summer when doing > short rides (6 miles) while using only platforms (after taking almost 2 > months off riding to allow it to heal). > > so i'm wondering if the Q factor and crank length are something i should > change on my next bike. > > some relevant info - i'm 5'11 but with a pbh of 84.5 (rounded up a few mm), > so i've got short legs and long torso. in addition, i rode a 19" Gary Fisher > Cobia 29er for the past few years and never experienced even a twinge of pain > doing 12-30 mile rides, and ~ 75+ miles a week with clip-ins; the Fisher also > had 175 cranks, and a Q-factor of 166. I believe the Q on the SD2's are > about the same (165), but i'm not sure what the BB width that came with the > Sam is, so it's possible the Fisher had a larger effective Q...? > > i'd like to go back to SPD clip-ins, as i never had a problem before my > century ride last june, and based on some recent threads on this list, i'm > planning on going with a shorter crank.. i'm thinking 170mm, as i doubt 172.5 > will make much of a difference (but i'd love to hear dissenting opinions). > > also - anyone know how "typical" the Q the Sam with stock BB and SD2 is? > any advice on how to minimize ITB issues when setting up a Riv in a road-ish > fashion? i'm assuming i DONT want to go for a compact double with narrow Q, > but might want to get a wider BB or a set of cranks with a larger tread. > > thanks, > andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
