Addendum to my addendum :) I swear this is my final note, then I'm going 
for a ride.

A neat thing that this makes obvious is how much you highest (smallest) 
cassette cog matters. You get an 10% increase in speed when going from a 
11T to 10T cog, or about the same you get from a 38T to 42T chainring!

Okay, time to stop replying and go riding!
On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 5:23:09 PM UTC-7 Ben Miller wrote:

> Quick addendum to my above post:
>
> 1. It works the other way around to: going from a 38T to a 42T will have 
> an approx. increase in speed of 11% (42/38 = 1.11). 38T to 44T is ~16% 
> (44/38 = 1.16). Again, everything else being equal.
> 2. Hopefully this is obvious, but do *not *shoot for you max speed on 
> some big downhill. Max target speed should be close to the average speed of 
> some prolonged gentle declining gradient that you normally encounter. (For 
> me that's like a -2 or -3% gradient, which if I'm honest barely exists on 
> my normal rides :)
>
> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 5:05:01 PM UTC-7 Ben Miller wrote:
>
>> Jeff, you can make this dead simple if you know 2 things:
>>
>>
>>    1. How fast you *can *comfortable go now without spinning
>>    2. How fast you *want *to go without spinning out
>>
>> It can be in whatever units you want: miles per hour, meters per seconds, 
>> megaparsec per millennia. Once you know that, take the ratio of item two vs 
>> item 1 (2/1). This is how much you need to increase your front chainring by.
>>
>> For example: 
>>
>>
>>    1. How fast you *can *currently comfortable go 15 mph
>>    2. How fast you *want *to go 20 mph
>>    3. 20/15 = 1.33; that how much bigger your chainring needs to be
>>    4. In this case, you'd need to increase your chainring from 38T to 
>>    50T (That's big, but this is just an example! Obviously need to round up 
>> or 
>>    down to nearest whole size, they don't make fractional teeth :)
>>
>> Since everything else is constant (crank length, wheelsize, cassette, 
>> etc) you don't actually need to account for them. 
>>
>> If you don't know 1 & 2 for you, maybe you can estimate it from previous 
>> ride's data. Or go on a typical ride and just note those speeds 
>> approximately. 
>>
>> Ben
>> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 4:17:41 PM UTC-7 [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, any 110bcd compatible ring will work for your cranks in the middle 
>>> (and outer) positions.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 6:13:27 PM UTC-5 [email protected] 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Ok! As Al Pacino said "the inches we need are everywhere around us."
>>>>
>>>> Would a 42 from this page 
>>>> <https://www.rivbike.com/products/chainring-110mm-130mm?variant=39827677151343>be
>>>>  
>>>> what I'm after?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again, the "10" further per revolution" explanation resonates 
>>>> with me.
>>>>
>>>> Jeff
>>>> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 7:08:52 PM UTC-4 [email protected] 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> With the numbers i gave you, with every pedal revolution you'll go 
>>>>> about 10 inches further.  Crank arm length doesn't make much of a 
>>>>> difference, more leverage in theory, all things equal, it may take you a 
>>>>> little longer to spin up but once your at your natural cadence expect 10 
>>>>> inches more per pedal revolution (80 to 100 rpm) will equal 800 to 100 
>>>>> inches more so 60 to 80 feet more per min. so on and so on......
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 4:02:37 PM UTC-7 [email protected] 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for the replies and the explanations for the layman! Crank 
>>>>>> arms are 173mm. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I will spend some time with the Sheldon Brown calculator. I have been 
>>>>>> trying to wrap my head around the info on the page on the Riv site but 
>>>>>> somehow how it's still confusing to me. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 6:55:18 PM UTC-4 [email protected] 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi Jeff,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have the same gearing on my Homer (650B), I use Sheldon Browns 
>>>>>>> Gear Inch calculator (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
>>>>>>> ).  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The highest being 89.8 gear inches (38x11) , bumping it up to 42x11 
>>>>>>> you would get  99.3 gear inches.  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What does that mean....i think you would get that sweet spot in 
>>>>>>> higher speed, i also have the silver 2 crankset, you can just get the 
>>>>>>> 42 
>>>>>>> tooth ring, you would still keep the chain guard too.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't recommend you go higher than 42, as an 18 tooth jump for 
>>>>>>> your front derailleur (42 to 24) is prob stretching it, doable, but 
>>>>>>> stretching it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I say go for it!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, March 25, 2025 at 3:37:48 PM UTC-7 [email protected] 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I know this topic is addressed in countless ways online, so I'm 
>>>>>>>> looking for more of a real-life take on the concept of gear inches.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I'm running the wide/low double 38x24 (with guard) and an 11-34 on 
>>>>>>>> the rear but feel like I am spinning out at the top end of the 
>>>>>>>> range on my Hillborne. I'm a heavy guy, riding a big heavy bike and, 
>>>>>>>> momentum being what it is, I can get up to a decent clip on flats and 
>>>>>>>> downhills. My Wahoo trainer has an 11-28 installed and even when 
>>>>>>>> grinding 
>>>>>>>> up a 10-12% grade in Watopia, I never use my 24 up front. I 
>>>>>>>> occasionally 
>>>>>>>> use it on the road, but mostly stay in the big ring...34 seems plenty 
>>>>>>>> low 
>>>>>>>> for me. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I think I might enjoy having a bigger gear up front but am not sure 
>>>>>>>> how much of a difference it would make. I have a reasonable sense of 
>>>>>>>> what 
>>>>>>>> rear cluster gearing means, but less so up front. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Is there any way to quantify or assess or describe what might be 
>>>>>>>> gained by going to a 42 or 44 over the 38? Can I just swap in the 
>>>>>>>> larger 
>>>>>>>> gear or will I lose the guard? 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks to anyone who has read this far!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

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