I'm glad to see that this topic is generating some lively discussion :-) Based on the input so far, it seems that people have had somewhat mixed results -- some experiencing issues similar to those I have, and others having had none at all. That's sort-of what I expected since -- again -- my assumption would be that if there was something truly, systemically wrong with the yoke design, they would be off the market. Obviously they've been tested and people are using them.
All I want to discover is what I'm doing differently from those who've had success. I've read all the comments here and would say that I haven't yet seen any ideas that I think are a factor. I've been highly cognizant of getting the bolt hole aligned properly, getting sufficient cable length through the unit, and making sure everything is clean and clear. Recounting, again, the way it's worked for me, the cable seems to start coming loose after a couple hard pulls on the lever. And it's that aspect of it which really gives me great pause. What if I'm confident in the set-up I have while the bike is on the stand, and while out on a test ride, but then the cable comes loose later, for reasons I can't see? I'm sure that an actual engineer could tell me why I'm wrong in saying so, but to my eye the design of the yoke doesn't seem trustworthy. Most of the yokes that I've ever used clamp the cable against a groove, with a washer. The Rene Herse yoke, on the other hand, causes the cable to be, in effect, "crimped" against the inside wall of the yoke body. That crimping action deforms the profile shape of the cable by a bit, and I'm theorizing that's what might make it easier for it to slip and then pull through. In my opinion the best yokes I've used are the Paul Moon Unit. They lock the cable into a groove by levering a washer against it, which (if I've got my amateur physics right) would yield a significant increase in clamping force over a unit where the cable passes through a hole in the center of the bolt that holds the clamping washer. And, certainly, over a unit that doesn't even use a clamping washer, as the Rene Herse. So... based on my experience, unless there's a true "a-ha" moment yet to come, I'll likely pair my Rene Herse brakes with a different style of yoke. Again: no knock at all on the brakes themselves -- they are great. And no knock, either, on the yokes since this does seem to be a "me problem" and others have been successful in setting them up. On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 7:04:46 AM UTC-7 Takashi wrote: > I've used Rene Herse yokes and Dia Compe cheap yokes. > It seems that with Rene Herse yoke, when there's some oil or grease on the > cable, the cable pops out more easily than with Dia Compes. > I've had same issue, so cleaned both yoke and cable with degreaser > carefully, and no problem since then. > > Takashi > > > 2024年9月5日木曜日 21:32:31 UTC+9 wboe...@gmail.com: > >> I have tried the Dia Compe version of these anchors and found no >> benefit. I switched to standard fixed yokes. Also lighter weight and much >> less fiddly. >> >> Will >> >> On Thursday, September 5, 2024 at 8:29:54 AM UTC-4 JohnS wrote: >> >>> Hello Michael, >>> >>> Did you grease the "piston"? I have the RH yokes on my Crust Lightening >>> Bolt canti and they work fine, no slipping. It's been a couple years since >>> I built it up and as I recall, I disassembled the whole thing and greased >>> all of the parts, just in case I would ever need to take it apart in the >>> future. >>> >>> JohnS >>> >>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 7:22:42 PM UTC-4 ian m wrote: >>> >>>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 2:32:06 PM UTC-4 J J wrote: >>>> >>>> It's either defective or plain awful design and manufacturing. >>>> >>>> >>>> It's certainly not the latter as mine work fantastically. And >>>> considering how simple the device is it's hard to see what could be >>>> defective. The hole? The nut? The entire process is by turning that nut >>>> you >>>> are pulling the shaft it threads onto towards the nut, eventually the >>>> cable >>>> is being pinched both at both top and bottom. >>>> >>>> What I find hardest to understand is how Michael was able to tighten >>>> the nut to "a very light tension" off-bike and have it hold the cable >>>> fine, >>>> but can't seem to replicate that on-bike. I think if over-tightening had >>>> somehow deformed the hole you'd be able to notice it. If you're not >>>> bottoming out the acorn nut I gotta think you can tighten it further, I >>>> could be wrong but I'd think the cable would fail before the solid block >>>> of >>>> the yoke or the shaft would. >>>> >>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a9c25c0a-1f90-4741-bd90-341c0112db26n%40googlegroups.com.
