On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 1:12:20 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

I am, right now, leaning toward a Gallup bike but will keep reading and 
learning. And right now, I’m heading out to do Tabatas training. I had to 
look it up. Promises to be the most miserable 4 minutes of my day.

Wow, first we hear you are road bike curious, now you are doing tabata 
workouts. Leah is going super hard core on us.

My 2 cents worth ... "road bike", as opposed to what you currently ride and 
love, is first and foremost about riding position. FWIW, my recommendation 
is to skip past Albastache and Mustache and go straight to drop bars. Start 
with them relatively high and close, so when your hands are on the tops you 
feel like your back is relaxed and comfy. Bernard Hinault, I think, said 
you should feel like you're playing piano on the tops. You then have the 
curves on top, where your hands are a bit wider apart and slightly forward, 
and your back should still be comfy. Then you go forward to the brake 
hoods. Now you should feel like you're more forward than you would be on 
your current bikes. But, if you're riding at a hard enough effort (we're 
not talking super hard here), the force on the pedals should be carrying 
enough of your weight that you're not having to hold yourself up on your 
hands. Next you go below the brake hoods to the farthest forward part of 
the drops. This is the speedy aero position. You won't have a low, flat 
back here until you've lowered your stem/bars quite a bit. But you should 
have a flat back and you should be putting a fair amount of force into the 
pedals. Finally, there are the flat parts of the drops, with your hands 
back a bit closer to you, which are a "cruising" location for me (and right 
next to my bar end shifters), low enough to be efficient but not fully 
stretched out. I've recently read comments from "racers" that if you spend 
any amount of time down there your bars are too high. Well, my bars are 
certainly too high by their standards, but mine are set up for me to be 
comfortable in every spot. Very important: in EVERY position you should not 
be gripping the bar or brake hood tightly, you should have a very loose 
grip and not be bearing too much weight there. I typically am very slightly 
pulling up on the brake hoods or drops to counteract the pedaling force of 
the opposite leg. Also, you should ALWAYS have at least a slight bend in 
your elbows in every position. If you are locking your elbows something is 
wrong with the position and you're doing bad things to your wrist and 
shoulders and neck.

General rule of thumb for starting out, have the tops of the bars maybe an 
inch above saddle height or, if you're already pretty flexible in the heaps 
and low back, level with the saddle. Put the back of an elbow at the front 
of the saddle and stretch your finger tips toward the handlebars. They 
should just touch the back of the handlebars at the stem. Maybe a little 
closer if you're tight, a little farther if you're flexible. Somebody 
recommended Noodle bars, which I heartily endorse, as that's what I have on 
most of my bikes. I like them because 1) the curves are generous 2) there's 
a little rise in the top curve, making them very comfy in that area) and 3) 
there's a fair amount of reach and drop, so you have a good range of 
positions. That last part is key for me on long rides. Sometimes I'm riding 
hard and need the long and low positions. Sometimes I'm taking it easy and 
need the high and near positions. 

I won't opine much on "which bike", because once you figure out your fit 
criteria, any bike that allows you to have that position will work fine. I 
have my Sam Hillbornes set up almost identically to my custom Waterford ST 
and Rivendell Road, except on the Riv Road the handlebars are a bit farther 
away and lower. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA

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