Patrick, when I sold a Raleigh International frame more than a decade ago,
I committed to cantis only. The centerpulls on the Int. were not confidence
inspiring on some of my local steep descents. I used Tektro 720’s, Paul Neo
Retros and Shimano BR MC 70s. I haveused the MC 70s on at least 10 bikes
for myself and friends and am very satidfied. The large KS pads last a few
years and I get quiet strong braking. For the past few weeks I have been
riding  some very steep dirt tracks  here in SW Portugal and had no issues.
I bought a decent supply before prices crept up and have little interest in
trying something else. An all too common attitude I adopt. I did switch to
the shorter KS pads so the front brake opens all the way without hitting
the fork blades.

Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire


On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:57 PM Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Steven: I'm curious about your reasons. I'm not contradicting, just asking
> because I'd like to know any secrets for setting up cantilevers properly.
> In fact, among the best brakes all around that I ever used -- mixing power
> and modulation and "feel" -- were IRD long-arms set up with salmons on my
> 2010 Sam Hill, but then the Riv staff installed and adjusted those. Drop
> bar levers. Me, I've never been able to get more than "acceptable" braking
> with cantis of any sort and drop bar levers.
>
> I had my 2020 Matthews built for cantilevers in order to clear 42 mm tires
> with fenders, but I sometimes wonder if I would not have done better to
> have had pivots added for centerpulls which, IME, are much easier to set up
> and which (again, IME), stop more "powerfully."
>
> At first I used Tektro CR 720s; I got rid of the violent squeal and
> shudder by radical pad toe-in, and after that they were "acceptable." I
> replaced those with Pauls which allowed a more normal toe-in without squeal
> or shudder and which were perhaps a wee bit stronger. Most recently I
> swapped out the steel Shimano headset mount housing stop in the front for a
> much more expensive RH one, and that did improve front braking "strength."
> Now the brakes are "quite adequate" but not as good as good single pivots
> or the backing-plate centerpulls I've used -- Mafacs, Weinmanns, Tourneys,
> Dura Ace.* And among the worst brakes I ever had were the Mafac cantilevers
> (even tried the longer-arm tandem model on the front) on an old Herse --
> despite salmon pads and a lot of time fiddling with cable angles.
>
> So, please explain the reason for your preference, and let us know of any
> secrets for setting up cantilvers for optimum performance. Perhaps you have
> in mind cantilevers with "flat bar" levers?
>
> Again: Not arguing! Seeking knowledge!
>
> Thanks.
>
> * I was told -- Olof Stroh, were did you go? -- that Shimano made Dura Ace
> centerpulls for about 6 months in 1976, and I owned a pair. Someone had
> hand polished them to a Rene Herse-like gleam, but they didn't work any
> better than the Tourneys; both worked "well" but not "exceptionally well."
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 1:08 PM Steven Sweedler <sweed...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> My vote is for cantilevers
>>
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:05 PM Kyle Cotchett <kylecotch...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all,
>>>
>>> Just swooped up an old bleriot that I am going to be bringing to a local
>>> frame builder to do some mods to for racks and mounted brakes. I am looking
>>> to set this one up as a touring bike and torn between having cantilever or
>>> centerpull brake posts installed. Any thoughts from folks who have ridden
>>> both?
>>>
>>> Kyle
>>>
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>
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
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