FWIW another fellow on the group did a 2-speed coaster build with a Susie 
and has a small write up on it here.

2-Speed Coaster Susie 
<https://groups.google.com/u/6/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/xFNmeutUclA/m/M_LzZgkoAQAJ>

On Thursday, December 21, 2023 at 10:58:38 AM UTC-8 mathiass...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I have done this and would probably not do it again -- it takes some 
> awareness and some re-training to go from coaster brake to being able to 
> backpedal freely.  I'm on my third winter on the coaster-brake bike and 
> still have trouble coming to a stop with the right pedal in the "take-off" 
> position. But then I'm not very coordinated.
>
> The upside of the coaster brake, and why I still use it, is the simplicity 
> for winter riding. In rust belt winters, everything corrodes and gets 
> messed up. So there's one less apparatus to worry about, plus the chain 
> won't freeze up like the brake cable could.
>
> I searched high and low for a steel mountain bike with horizontal 
> dropouts. They're like hen's teeth. Specialized bikes up until 1993 or so 
> qualify, so I got a Rockhopper.
> My last winter bike was Cannondale hybrid, with horizontal dropouts like 
> all aluminum bikes I've ever seen, and there I used a calculator similar to 
> what @iamkeith is recommending. It gets futzy, and the result won't be 
> gospel, but this type of calculator is  essential to figuring out a 
> chainring/sprocket combination that works. A little trial and error might 
> be necessary. Expect maybe 4-500 miles of wear before the chain elongates 
> enough to become a problem. 
>
> Fun fact, after the chain comes off, you got no rear brake. So make sure 
> you have one in front also.
>
> As @Bill Lindsay alluded to above but didn't spell out: Coaster brakes and 
> chain tensioners don't really mix. Whatever slack is in the system needs to 
> be taken up before the braking starts. 
> Also, by the time you add the tensioner, just get one that shifts ;)
>
> The whole thing seems like trouble; nothing wrong with coaster brakes, 
> just use a frame the works with you, not against you.
>
> cheers -mathias
> On Wednesday, December 20, 2023 at 8:36:42 AM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
>
>> Velo Orange sells an eccentric bottom bracket for hollow tech cranks. 
>> Currently out of stock though. Good reviews for the most part, one did say 
>> it doesn't take up much slack, maybe one link at most. Probably would work 
>> fine with a half link.
>>
>>
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/bottom-brackets/products/eccentric-bottom-bracket-bsa
>>
>> https://www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=half+link
>>
>> JohnS
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 19, 2023 at 8:48:23 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Cyclofiend Jim
>>>
>>> I think your eyes skipped over the words "coaster brake" (aka a 
>>> foot-brake rear hub) in this thread.  The original poster wants to put a 
>>> coaster brake rear wheel on their Clem.  Otherwise, spot-on suggestions. 
>>>  :-)
>>>
>>> BL in EC
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 19, 2023 at 1:37:11 PM UTC-8 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Monday, December 18, 2023 at 10:15:35 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The show stoppers that I would fear are:
>>>>
>>>> 1. A coaster brake requires a no-tensioner way to take up chain slack. 
>>>>  On normal cruisers, that's done with horizontal dropouts.  The Clem has 
>>>> vertical dropouts.  
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Fixing chain slack on vertical dropouts is easily addressed with a 
>>>> chain tensioner. 
>>>> https://surlybikes.com/parts/singleator
>>>>
>>>> Or if you want a purpose-built wheel, check out the White ENO hub - 
>>>> https://www.whiteind.com/product/eno-flip-flop/
>>>>
>>>> If you go the hub route, you would have to leave the handbrakes in 
>>>> place.... 
>>>>
>>>> J
>>>>
>>>

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