Max, Your frame pictured appears to be a 60cm, which is measured center-BB 
to the top of the seat tube( C-T for short ).

The TT be measured center seat tube to center head tube ( C-C ). If 
measured along the top tube, regardless of angle, that's called the "actual 
TT". If the measured horizontally from the center-head tube horizontally to 
where it "would" meet the center seat tube(if it was that high), that's the 
effective TT( ETT ). The ETT is a virtual figure, it's "virtually" there 
but not actually !  Your TT ought to measure 63cm actual, 64cm effective. 
The effective can be a bit tricky, if you have a long straight edge with a 
level on it it's easy-er. 

For the canti wheel distance, just measure from the center dropout to the 
center canti post (where it meets the frame, not it's extension), along the 
seat stay. On the photo for example, you'd just draw a line along the chain 
stay between those two points, c-c.  Any way you do it will work as long as 
you're consistent. 

By your photo I assume you are referring to the fitting of tires with the 
fenders installed ? If so, well it's not sized for that, the max tire size 
is for no fenders. You have to take in account the actual tire shape/type 
itself also, a Marathon Supreme is more like a slick tire. Knobbies need 
more room. Your Supreme with "room to spare" to you, doesn't appear to have 
any room to spare to me. I assume the fenders are P50's ?  Fenders do need 
room for debris to pass. I have P50's and Big Ben's on my 60 Bomba and 
despite the tire being actually 46mm wide, it does rub very slightly 
against the mounting bracket rod inner hardware every so often when shaken 
hard. It's also a relatively tall tire, so that has to be accounted for 
also. So the clearance is just not vertical, it's also horizontal, the 
inner hardware, notably on SKS fenders. 


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