I was randomly on the Rivendell site last night just checking on parts and what not. Checked and was a bit surprised to see the Platypus was still available in all sizes! I showed them to my wife again just because. “It want one, that is my perfect bike!” I laughed a bit and said we should go ahead and get one since you never know when they’ll be gone or come back! She doesn’t ride very much and so I was a bit shocked to find out that she was serious!
So, a quick PBH double check later we had a 55 in the cart. I kinda hoped she’d be on 650b wheels this time but the size is the size. And I just so happen to have some “extra” 700c wheels to use at first. Very excited to get it and build it up! It will be a nice fi my to my Clem and Susie in the soon to be all Rivendell garage! On a side note with the seatpost binder bolt, my Susie was very difficult to loosen when I got it. I finally worked it loose though and put anti seize on there, no problems since. They should not be assembling anything dry at the factory. The cranks were almost seized from assembly as well. I had a heck of a time breaking the chainring bolts loose on a new set (with proper tools). I learned from a previous set that I had to drill out to always disassemble and reassemble with some anti seize. On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 3:19:19 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote: > Laing, I've heard the term "galling" before, but I always thought it meant > threads were somehow corroded, filled with debris, or buggered from cross > threading. > > I've also heard the term used to describe my personality...hehe...but > that's a thread for elsewhere. > > It's Friday afternoon. Can you tell? Yee-haw!!! > > Scott > > On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:33:52 PM MST, lconley <lco...@brph.com> > wrote: > > > The problem could be that the nut and bolt are both stainless steel. > Stainless on stainless can "gall", basically cold welding themselves to > each other. Lubricant / anti-seize on the threads can help prevent this. > > Laing > > On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:12:58 PM UTC-5 Mark C wrote: > > > Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The > seatpost bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a > week through a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I > was turning onto my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The > bolt still seemed to be tight, but I finally marked it and could see that > it wasn't turning in the nut even though the bolt turned with difficulty. > Then, as I was suspecting and sort of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found > the nut so don't know what was up there, but it sure seemed like the > threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know how else the post would > suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It was such a freak thing > I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case. > On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote: > > An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my > frame was fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the > hanger threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the > cups threaded in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been > chasing the threads on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get > them cleaned out and accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing > taps so I've always just used a steel screw, working it in and out until > the threads are clear. I've seen thread clearing tools made using a > sacrificial screw with a slot cut along the length of the threads to allow > material to clear while threading it, which probably would've made it go > faster. > > Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant > to turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it > to tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the > bolt it snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of > the bolt out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I > was unable to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I > replaced the bolt with a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, > non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue loctite on the bolt). Now everything > tightens up (and loosens again) as expected. > > -Dave > > On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote: > > I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that > have two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right > side lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I > don't know if a non-integrated right lever exists. > > The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by > repositioning the pivot pin. > > Laing > > On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote: > > Thanks, Scott. That helps a lot. > I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet. > I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though. I hadn’t run into > that before. > > I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? > implies “and how are you going to build it up?” > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. > To view this discussion on the web visit > > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9a7cb4df-a1dd-4e82-8037-335e9cf1c032n%40googlegroups.com > > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9a7cb4df-a1dd-4e82-8037-335e9cf1c032n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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