Thanks for sharing this. This makes my waiting for the Berthoud composite
fenders more exciting. Peter White said it will arrive tomorrow. I'm going
to use it in rejuvenating my Voodoo Loa titanium cross bike.

-- Rene


-----Original Message-----
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Earl Grey
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 7:02 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] SKS/Berthoud fender review

I bought these a while back from Peter White. They are SKS plastic/
aluminium composite fenders with Berthoud aluminium single stays (the
Germans, like the Brits, write it aluminium).

I have bought nothing but SKS fenders since the early 90s, but I never
thought the stays were that great, and the quick release bracket for
the front is kinda ugly, too. (Yes, I know, safety is good, but
Berthoud and Honjo have come up with a much more elegant and
presumably equally safe solution.) Lastly, being able to mount them
without cutting the stays to size may be convenient, but uncut stays
IMHO ruin the lines of a nice bike more than anything else. So I still
cut the stays on my SKSs to size, even though sawing stainless steel
with a hacksaw is not all that much fun.

Metal fenders seemed a bit too ostentatious for my budget Sam, and I
thought I might splurge on those a couple of years down the road for a
make-over for the Sam. So the SKS/Berthouds seemed like a good
compromise between cheap/functional/quiet and beautiful.

The front fender seems longer forward of the fork crown when compared
with a regular SKS as shown on the 700C AHH on rivbike.com, and the
rear end of the front fender also looks a little longer. The rear
fender seems equally long. The longer front complements a front rack
better, and presumably better protects the front rack's contents, as
well as the feet.

Getting a good fender line with the 42mm fenders and Jack Browns took
3 spacers, as the bike can fit at least 50mm fenders and 40mm tires
(see http://tinyurl.com/yfou2ud). I also discovered that for an
optimal fender line, the spacer at the chainstay bridge should be cut
so that its back edge angles forward, allowing the fender to arch
forward as it comes away from the chainstay bridge. In other words,
the eyelet at the back of the chainstay bridge points to somewhere
below the center of the hub, because the chainstays flare vertically
from front to back where the kickstand plate is attached, angling the
kickstand plate down relative to the direction of the chainstays. I
guess this could be finessed at the factory by custom bending the
angle between the kickstand plate and the fender eyelet, but probably
not on a $1000 frame. :) Or, you could screw a long bolt into the
chainstay bridge, and pull up on the end of the bolt until it points
at the hub. But I didn't think of that till afterwards. :)

Overall I am very pleased with the clean look of the finished fenders.
If you don't cut the Berthoud stays, the install is almost as straight
forward as regular SKS fenders, and cutting the stays is actually
easier as there are only 4 total, and they are aluminium. The only
complication is that there is no bracket for the seatstay bridge,
which means that one hole *must* be drilled here (there is a pre-
drilled hole for the chainstay bridge bolt, and the front fender has
an L-bracket for the fork crown bolt). Of course, mounting the fender
to the bottom of the front rack also required drilling a hole. That
said, drilling these holes is quite straight forward if you first make
a pilot hole with a hammer and nail so that the drill bit doesn't
wander off target.

Cheers,

Gernot

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