Dilling holes is easy. Aluminum is soft, and you can finish the hole
off with a rat tail file. It helps to start it with a punch. In any
event you don't see the hole when it's all assembled so no need to get
obsessive about it. Just make absolutely positively 100% sure don't
even think about trying to shortcut the process to only do one set of
holes at a time. Mark, drill mount, mark the next set, dismount, drill,
remount. You cannot mark all the holes at once, because mounting the
first hole changes the alignment and your next hole is going to end up
in the wrong place. That's the chief reason why it takes a long time
and requires huge amounts of patience. That, and of course because it's
easy to screw up and ruin an expensive fender. Haste truly makes waste
here.
Also under no circumstances ever try to pull the fender into shape by
means of tension on the fender stays. That works with plastic fenders,
but it's the kiss of death with metal ones. You adjust the fender line
by squeezing the edges of the fender together or spreading them apart.
Stressing the fender by means of tension on the stays ends up causing
cracking.
On 10/01/2018 12:45 PM, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
Hi D,
Honjo fenders are terrific, but installation can be challenging. Get
the fenderline set before fixing the
For tools and drilling in aluminum, here's Ocean Air
Cycles: http://oceanaircycles.com/2014/01/26/holes-in-metal-fenders/
Jitensha and Velo Orange have decent instructions, if you have some
familiarity with fender installation.
https://www.jitensha.com/eng/honjinstl.html
https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009/03/fender-mounting-instructions.html
There's also BQ's fender installation instructions, which you'd need
to purchase from BQ.
For Q2, do you mean [straddle] cable hanger rubs on the fender? On my
48-cm Hunqapillar, there was little room between the rear brake cable
hanger and fender. The straddle cable hanger was set almost to touch
the fender in order to have any room for brake actuation. If you have
room, then you can raise the straddle hanger. The brake
feel+performance might change, but it's the rear wheel, so probably
doesn't matter that much. (YMMV!)
For Q3, Paul touring canti brakes and Paul Neo-retros would work fine
with fenders.
Good luck!
shoji
Arlington MA
On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 11:17:34 AM UTC-4, nemom...@gmail.com
wrote:
I just bought a set of SIMWORKS Honjo 62mm fenders for my Joe
Appaloosa - they did not come with any instructions and the parts
tags were in Japanese. While I have watched one (the only one I
could find) video regarding the installation which looks pretty
extensive, I do have some questions if someone has experience with
these. Here goes . . .
1. Drilling the tiny holes for the hardware in aluminum - does
that require a special bit? and what would be the best approach to
get a clean drill hole result?
2. I have tektro cantilever brakes CR720 on the bike and the brake
cable tip rubs on the fender when I put it over the wheel. I don't
have much room to cut shorter - and really am
new to the cantilever brake system even though i recently replaced
the cable hardware as it had rusted. I can lengthen the arch wire
so that the brake cable wire may go higher - not sure but wanted
to ask before I tore it apart again.
3. I'm also looking at the Paul brakes as a replacement but
couldn't find any substantive video on whether these would be ok
with the fenders - the cantilever touring brakes - any thoughts on
this as well would be appreciated.
Guess that's it - hope this works in getting out there. Thanks, D
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