FWIW, you can remove the cores from valves that are not "removable". Just
use pliers to remove the core locknut; let the core fall into the tube
(pinch tube under the valve stem so that it doth not disappear into the
abyss), and squirt in your sealant. Even if the core does drop to the
unimaginable, dark depths of the tube, it's easy to work it back into place
with your fingers.

Do you want an absolutely fool proof system against goatheads? I'll give
you one.

1. Choose a tire with a very thick tread and a very thick thorn proof belt.
2. Add a "thorn proof" tube, the kind that is 1/3" thick on the bottom and
weighs more than the tire.
3. Add a thick Mr Tuffy.
4. Add 4 oz of Slime.

I've ridden 50 mm tires like this through literally a quarter of a mile of
goathead vines covering pavement (ie, max force to drive into tire) and
come out unscathed with no air loss* after several days.

But! The ride was sh*t. It was like riding through cold molasses 12" deep
in a 53 X 12 against a 40 mph headwind while sick with a 105* fever and the
brakes locked and your saddle way too low.

* The air cavity in thorn proof tubes is very small, what with the
excessively thick tube walls.

Back in the day, our local roadies adhered to "the system" which included
lining your skinny racing tire with another racing tire from which you'd
cut the beads. Seriously. Me, I found Kojaks and Michelin Pro Races and
5-10 flats a week easier to deal with.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 11:23 AM, WETH <erlhous...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Patricks and Tim,
> Thanks for the info.  I'll do some reading on Orange Seal and tubes with
> removable valve cores.
> Dean,
> I appreciate the info from your ride.  From the reading I've done, it
> seems portions of the western section (Atkinson to Valentine) are afflicted
> with vegetation and thorns on the trail.  Apparently a state highway runs
> parallel to the trail in sections and is used by some riders weary of flats
> and rougher trail surfaces.
> Thanks,
> Erl
>
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