Keep us up to date on your experiences and any changes. Note that if you should use a 17/19 Dingle, you could use a 40 or 42 t ring with the 17 to get about a 66" gear (27" wheel, 42 t ring; 28" wheel, 40 t ring) as well as a 59" or 60" gear with the 19; and a 6 or 7 gi difference sure feels like a lot when you've been climbing in the bigger one.
With a 17/20, you'd have a 56 or 57 inch low, same conditions. I would be surprised if your brake shoes, properly set up, couldn't take a 2 or even 3 t difference, if you are willing to accept a compromise position for the rear pads. After all, the rear track ends are sloped, not horizontal. Me, I ditched my rear brakes (2 bikes with Dingle) because the Dingle is less cooperative with rear pads, but on my '03 Curt, with immensely long horizontal dropouts (not sloping track ends), I don't even notice any brake pad discrepancy when I switch to the 19 from the 17, and I am pretty sure the pads would accommodate a 20, if not a 21. I suspect that your track ends are sloped similarly to my horizontals. I think your rear pads would object to a 5 or 8 tooth difference. Almost but not quite aside: with that fixed gear, I find the rear brake usable but hardly necessary and not even very useful (I installed the rear brake because on very rare occasions I run a freewheel on this bike); for all except the lightest braking in the rear, I find myself skipping the rear wheel as I resist the cranks, a reaction that, at least for me, is unthinking. Certainly, IME, for sudden braking -- hard but not yet panic -- the rear wheel is so unweighted that it stops without any use of the rear brake. Read Sheldon Brown on fixed gears and rear brakes. On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 3:40 PM, alan lavine <[email protected]> wrote: > Deacon, I think that's what I'm going to do for now...no inclination for a > major project right now. > > And Patrick, I totally agree with your "philosophy" of fixed gear riding. > It attracts me for the same reasons. > > Alan > > On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 9:25:37 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote: >> >> Hey Alan, >> >> My suggestion is ride the 65" (or 70") on the longer rides. You will be >> surprised how quickly you learn climbing either in the saddle or standing >> but in a slow, steady way for longer hills. I don't know what long hills >> are where you live, here they are 10-20 miles. Grin. Should you climb a >> hill you need your lowest gear, LCG it. That's what it's there for, and >> it's variable, as you can lope along with your bike if you like, or walk >> very slow. Try what you have for long rides and see how you do. Give it the >> summer. You then know if you need that 10" difference or not (Because it >> costs quite a bit to get there from where you are and I bet 95-98% of your >> riding you've already got covered with what you have). >> >> With abandon, >> Patrick >> >> On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 5:15:09 AM UTC-6, alan lavine wrote: >>> >>> Much thanks for all the thoughtful replies and info. The bike in >>> question is currently set up fixed with 65" gearing, and this is fine for >>> around town and short rides out of town. I was thinking about longer rides >>> with longer hills....no real mountains and no off road. Given the >>> limitations of a standard track dropout and the brake pad issue I would >>> need to create gearing with the same # of teeth in both positions so no >>> axle position change. I would be looking for around 70" on the flats and >>> around 60" for climbs. I didn't run the numbers but I'm sure this is >>> possible. >>> >>> I keep getting back to the quick release issue. Currently I have an >>> Origin 8 flip flop hub spaced to 126, with sealed bearings. Is it even >>> possible to change out axles on this? Aside from Phil Wood, any options >>> for a custom wheel that won't break the bank? >>> >>> Again, thanks for all the collective wisdom. >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> >>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 10:50:07 AM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi All, >>>> The simple one for sale got me to thinking about doing something >>>> similar with a fixie frame I made at United Bicycle Institute a few years >>>> ago. >>>> IIRC you can put 2 closely spaced chainrings up front. Then in the >>>> rear with flip flop hub, you can use a double freewheel on one side and >>>> even a double fixed cog on the other. Is this right? How close do the >>>> chainrings and cogs need to be to avoid having to change the chain length? >>>> Can you use a "crossover" gear, i.e. one chainring with either of the cogs >>>> in the rear (FW or fixed), or do they need to be in the same plane? Will >>>> it work with a standard track dropout or was there something unique on the >>>> simple one/quickbeam? >>>> >>>> Can someone give me examples of the gearing they use? What double >>>> crank works or do I have to make a custom one? My frame was originally >>>> built with a 120 rear but I respaced it to 126...will that work? Are flip >>>> flop wheels available with quick release, and is it OK for fixed gear >>>> riding? I'm wondering how often I would change the gears if I needed a >>>> wrench for the axle nut. >>>> >>>> Lots of questions, sorry, but I'm thinking it would make an interesting >>>> project. >>>> >>>> Thanks in advance, >>>> Alan >>>> NYC >>>> >>> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price contract. And still more! I am offering services in trade for a road bike, or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.* Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten ************************************************************************** ************** -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
