One other thing to consider - the quality and condition of cable/housing. With friction shifting you can get away with poorer quality cables and housing. You can also be a bit sloppier during installation. but I've found that with indexed, particularly 10 speed or higher, and particularly with bar-ends (if you're doing this) it is ESSENTIAL to make sure you've got good quality housing with no little barbs/burrs at the end from cutting. I'll often take a file to clean it up, or even a dremel, then use a needle to open up the squished liner so there is no drag. I only use teflon coated cables, which makes a substantial difference.
A tell-tale sign of cable drag is perfect shifting as you move up the cassette, but a drag when you move down and release cable tension. Something to add to the list to check! On Tuesday, June 21, 2016 at 7:48:46 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote: > > I was really optimistic about this and worked hard at it, even had stoker > Pat with her quilters eye confirm my alignment. It didn't change the > outcome. Then I measured the chain and found it at .75, so cleaned up the > rings, cogs, & pulleys and then put on a new chain. This helped. Now when > I drop down from the largest cogs it simply hesitates until I put a tad > more pressure on the shifter. When I get down to the middle of the > cassette, it starts to work perfectly. I am considering trying a new > cassette but would need to buy one and since I have been thinking about > moving to 10 speed, hesitate. > > As I posted on the tandem discussion "tandems create the worst possible > case for shifting. They have long cables that stretch a lot; the captain > & stoker may have difficulty coordinating pedal pressure during shifting; > they require a higher hi gear because its easy to spin out and they require > a lower low gear because they don't climb as effectively as a single. > Finally the captain and stoker often prefer different cadences making big > jumps between gears hard to satisfy both riders." So in order to solve > some of these problems I am thinking about moving from a 9 speed 48/38/26 & > 11/28 to a 52/38/28 with a 10 speed 11/30 or 32. > > Michael > > On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 6:20:32 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: >> >> As you're looking at the bike from behind, your derailer pulleys are >> lined up slightly to the right of the center of each cog. In this position >> you'll get a clean shift to the left towards bigger cogs, but as it moves >> to the right towards smaller, the chain wants to skip too far right to the >> next smaller cog. >> >> What you want to do is get the chain/derailer/pulleys under the middle >> cog, then adjust until everything is directly lined up, or possibly even >> slightly biased to the left. If your derailer has an adjuster thingy where >> the cable enters derailer, turn it counterclockwise to slightly budge those >> pulleys leftward. If not you'll need to mess with the cable anchor until >> you have things where you need them. >> >> Hopefully this all makes sense. Good luck! >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
