Well, I've personally built several disk wheels & a couple of those were fronts 
and will be building 2 or 3 more shortly. (On top of that I have probably built 
a couple dozen non disk wheels) No disrespect to Rich but the front disk hubs I 
have used required no dish at all! Typically, (from what little I've seen) the 
manufacturers relocate the non braking side flange further inboard so that no 
dishing of the wheel is needed and while I prefer not having any dish in the 
wheel I am not sure whether I wouldn't prefer it to the loss of triangulation 
that results from moving the flanges in to compensate for the disk.
I used the term sprung weight mearly as a counterpoint to the rolling weight 
and because a better term did not come to mind. It was not the significant 
point of the topic anywayz. The main point that you obviously missed was that 
less rotating mass is preferable to less weight in the frame. AND not to be 
argumentative or go into too much pointless explanation, but a bicycle frame on 
spoked wheels would be considered sprung weight! 
Your friends Trek probably just got a bum wheel, my XO-1s front wheel broke 
several spokes when I first got it, tore it down rebuilt it, no further 
problems. 
The average rider probably doesn't break too many spokes regardless of 
configuration, which was part of the point of what I was making. If you break a 
lot of spokes you need a new wheel builder.

My experience with trying to straighten pieces of metal like brake rotors is 
that typically you do more harm then good. The tolerances on disks are so small 
that a wobble of less then a millimeter effects whether it will rub or not and 
by extension how good it will work. I have seen people "shrink" metal, using a 
torch/heat, but again I might cause more harm then good.

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