I am not fluent here and tried to respond to other comments about it, then 
gave up and thought I could do it here & this way...wondering all the while 
whether this is what "thread thwacking" is.  Anyway, this isn't the last 
word on it, just our experience and observations.

It looks best and the way you want it to look if the frame is not blasted 
after building. Then you get the fire marks and general variegation that 
gets the blood flowing. If the frame is blasted after building and you 
clear coat over that, it looks like boring metallic gray with some 
brass-colored pinstriping (if lugs). Nobody will say *hey, cool;* they'll 
just think, *hey, kinda boring*.

Clear coat is porous, which means water gets thru it and causes rust. We 
had a local powder coater assure us that it had an ultranew and 
supereffective way to protect the metal from rust, but it didn't work. 
Inland bikes, no big problem, but if you live in a sugar shack on 
Chesapeake Bay, it won't last.

Powder coating, wet painting, no matter. Powder coating isn't the 
"bulletproof, no-nonsense, thanks for not making me have to think about 
anything" solution it is sometimes portrayed as. It was developed for thick 
steel tractors, as a durable, chip-resistant layer. The proble, besides 
being pourous, is that with powder there is no primer to help fight rust 
and protect the metal when it does chip. And powder coatings tends to have 
more micro-cracks than wet paint. When the paint is opaque, it's easy to 
assume all's well underneath, but when it's clear, you can actually see 
what's happening.

If clear-coating was a GREAT idea, we'd offer it. It's used on show bikes 
sometimes as a novelty and to show how great the metal looks, but if the 
air is humid or salty or it rains a lot or something like that, it's not 
fantastic...in our experience here, at least.

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