What happens when the cable is disconnected? Does the derailer stay in high 
gear? You may need to adjust the high gear limit screw to allow the 
derailer to travel freely to the small cog. Another possibility is the 
b-tension screw adjustment. Loosening that screw can make the shifting 
better, but you don't want it so loose that it bumps into the large cog. If 
none of those work, my next thought is that the derailer hanger is a little 
bent. You may want to get the alignment checked. Good thing it's a steel 
frame. 

jim m
wc ca

On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 5:22:38 PM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> Here's the deal: I've adjusted my derailers often but I can't get the rear 
> shifting right on my Hilsen. I have DuraAce bar ends which I've been using 
> in friction mode for about a year and a half. I have a brand new rear 
> cassette, 9-speed, brand new chain and chain rings. I use Sheldon's method 
> when setting things up. I shift to the highest gear (when the cable is 
> loosest) with the cable disconnected. I pull the cable until it is just 
> snug, then tighten the bolt. I leave about 1 available turn on each barrel 
> adjuster (there are two for the rear cable) to loosen the cable if need be, 
> which leaves the much more room for the barrel adjusters to tighten it. I 
> can't seem to get the shifting to stay still in the lowest 3 gears. It 
> skips back and forth. It will be ok if there's not too much of a load on 
> the pedals but it wants to wander when I'm climbing. This is the case in 
> all three chainrings. What gives?!? I keep tightening the barrel adjusters 
> 1/2 turn at a time and can't seem to get it right. I loosen and that's no 
> help either. When I go to the very lowest gear (requiring the most cable 
> tension) it stays in place fine. So what do you all think, is the cable too 
> tight or too loose?

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