I suspect you have all the washers and stuff slightly out of alignment, which means the D-ring is feeling tight before actually bottoming everything out. There's several bits in there..some round, some round with a rectangle shape inside. Those rectangles have to fit over the rectangle nut coming in from the other side of the pod. I would carefully pull the lever off its mount - don't drop the circles and rectangles! - then slowly press back on, making sure all the pieces are fitting into the rectangle-ish space. Which sounds bonkers to anyone not actually looking at these shifters right now, but it should make sense to your eyes.
I've had your problem numerous times with Silver shifters, and it was always this misalignment of bits. Good luck! On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 5:02:57 PM UTC-8, DSat wrote: > Yes, you are correct in your description of the issue. I've tried to > loosen and or snug up the d-ring screw and the behavior seems the same no > matter how loose or snug it is. So, at this point I either need to get a > different set of shifters or open it up so see if I have any luck. It's a > lost cause as it is, so I don't guess that it would hurt to open it up and > see what's going on. I have an old set of dia-compe shift levers that i > guess that I could try. Thanks so much. > > On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 7:54:05 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote: >> >> I think it sounds like the ratcheting part inside your shifter is not >> engaging correctly. >> >> When you say "It automatically shifts back down", you mean you use your >> hand to move the shifter far enough to get it to move all the way up to the >> 5th or 6th cog, and when you take your hand off the shifter, it shifts back >> down. Is this correct? >> >> If yes, then you haven't done anything wrong with the cable. There's >> something slipping in the shifter. There are two ways this could happen, >> one simple and easy, the other a little more complex, but still not rocket >> surgery. >> >> 1. The friction part is just too loose. Your Silver shifter is held in >> place with friction. The tightness of that friction is determined by the >> tightness of the D-ring screw part on the shifter. See if that D-ring >> feels loose, and maybe snug it up a bit. If it seems snug, do not reef on >> it hard. You can break the plastic washer if you get all burly on it. >> That's why it's a D-ring, to keep you from putting a wrench on it and >> overtightening. >> 2. The ratchet part is not engaging. Inside that shifter there's a >> ratchet ring. It has lots of teeth on it and there's a spring loaded >> little toothy thing that locks into those teeth. Pulling the cable drags >> that springloaded toothy bit across the ratchet rings. Then it locks in >> place with friction. Releasing the cable forces that ratchet ring to move >> through friction. Anyway, if those teeth aren't engaging right, then your >> derailer might not hold a position. A couple of us have taken apart that >> internal mechanism, but it's pretty delicate. You kind of need to know >> what you are looking at and need to know how it's supposed to look to >> determine if it's messed up. >> >> Bill Lindsay >> El Cerrito, CA >> >> On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 3:33:31 PM UTC-8, DSat wrote: >>> >>> First attempt at replacing my rear derailer cable. Using the same >>> handlebars, bar end shifters (riv silver), cable housings (in good >>> condition). Have not touched any limit screws as derailer seems to be >>> lined up correctly under the smallest gear in back. Chain on smallest cog >>> in back and on small ring up front. Shifter all the way down when I insert >>> the cable. I am only pulling the cable by hand when I attach it to the RD >>> (Deore 9 spd) which has a groove for the cable. Having no luck getting it >>> to shift correctly. When I am shifting from the smallest to larger cogs, >>> once I hit about the 3rd smallest cog it automatically shifts back down. >>> If I go further up it does the same thing. Only when it gets in the >>> biggest rings does it stay put. I've played with the cable adjust thing on >>> the RD as well as the one at the cable stop (where downtube shifters would >>> go) in about as many combinations as I could think of and nothing seems to >>> help. >>> >>> Any advice as to what is causing it or would fix it? Do I need to have >>> the cable pulled tighter than by hand when attaching to the RD? If I push >>> on the cable about a foot or two up above the bottom bracket cable guide, >>> how tight should the cable feel (should I be able to push it and hit the >>> frame or should it be tight, etc???) About at the point to give up and >>> take it to a bike shop b/c I've spent too many hours for such a seemingly >>> simple task. Yes, I'm a beginner, but after watching videos, and reading >>> bike repair books, and even advice from Mark at Riv, I'm still obviously >>> doing something wrong. >>> >>> Thanks In Advance >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
