Since the weather here in the Midwest has turned really crappy after the new year, I plunged into the Rambouillet BB swap. I had ordered a 119mm Phil Wood Symmetrical to replace the troublesome TA Axix that was in place. Since the TA was 122mm and after much measuring and guesstimating I figured the 119mm JIS would come pretty close to the French job and I was right. Since the TA never gave me a perfect chain line in the first place, I expected to have to move the Phil over toward the non-drive side a bit. Turned out (after much thread cleaning, trial fitting, cussing, thread re-cleaning, etc. - I love the Phil BB's but hate installing them!) that the BB had to be moved over to the non-drive side such that the Phil cup threads on the drive side were flush with the BB shell and the the cup threads on the non-drive side protrude about 3.6mm. This creates a perfect chain line and allows for equal pedal clearance from the chain stays on both sides, BUT it places the inner 36T chainring slightly less than 2mm from the chain stay - I'd have preferred a little more clearance than that, but it should work. Phil's next size down on BB's is a 116mm, which might've been a better choice, if any one is going to do this combination. It would have meant a more centered placement of the BB and therefore more chainring clearance, but should still accomplish the chain line requirements.
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 9:15:27 AM UTC-6, George Schick wrote: > > One major project this Winter is to jump into the ring with a @#$%& > crankset/BB overhaul, or changeout, or maybe a combination of the two. If > anything in the world could use a bit of "standardization" it would be this > business of trying to match up BB spindle tapers and length with "said" > requirements for them published by those who pedal (no pun intended) > various cranksets. On top of all that, I'm done with these so-called "self > extracting" fixing bolts and going back to a good old crank puller that > actually works. > > Enough of that rant - the next project will be to "boil" a piece of > leather and let it dry on a cylindrical surface in order to shape it into a > nicely curved mud flap. In order to keep in that way, I'm thinking of > shellacking the tire side of the flap. Anyone know how well shellac works > with leather? > > > On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 4:37:11 AM UTC-6, ascpgh wrote: >> >> Riding, besides my commutes, get a bit scant from here on out through >> winter. The season, the holidays, more deliberate prep for a trip in the >> conditions, plenty of things distract from just a nice ride but I realize >> that at this time every year I always seem to contemplate a bike project to >> go with the anticipated springtime, fruition or not. It's biking fun for >> the extra bandwidth. >> >> My project is a low trail, 650b wheeled, all-around bike made with a >> lively tube set (versus sturdy for touring) with drop bars, center pull >> brakes, generator hub, LED lighting. All on a budget recognizing the value >> of experience, unlike the box bike/mass market interpretation, handmade >> wheels versus machine made ones as an example. I am reading and including >> many posting subjects and items in this project and admit that may not >> reach reality, but it's fun to have on the drawing board. >> >> Andy Cheatham >> Pittsburgh >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
