I suggest that you start over with your FD limit adjustment. Remove the cable from the FD. Move the chain to the small chainring and largest cog. Adjust the low set screw so that the inside plate of the FD just clears the chain. Move the chain to the large chainring and smallest cog. Adjust the high set screw so that the inside plate of the FD barely clears the chain. Move the FD back to the small chainring and reattach the cable. Now, you should have the appropriate range of motion for the FD. Sometimes adjusting the low set screw first remedies throwing the chain off the large chainring because you have reset the total range of motion of the FD. Good luck.
On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 11:13:40 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote: > > I have had my Rivendell for approximately 9 years now. During this time I > have continually had problems with overshifting of the front derailer. > This has continued through 4 different cranksets, two or three different > front derailers, different brands of chains, different casettes, different > LBSs tinkering with it and so forth. Not to mention my own tinkering. > I've theorized that maybe the seat tube angle on my bike is different than > others due to the large size of my bike - 69cm, but I don't really know. > > I had given up on the problem and just rode the chain back on to the big > ring if it came off that way, or stopped and put it back on the granny if > it came off that way. > > I just recently as in last week switched to a Deore SGS derailer, so super > long cage. With so much longer of a cage, it pulls the chain back a lot > father now when it comes off the big ring and I am afraid of something > catastrophic happening like the chain getting tangled up in the spokes. So > there is a renewed urgency to do something about it. > > The current front derailer is a Campy Racing T, which from what I read on > the Internet is supposed to be good at shifting compact triples. I am > currently running a Sugino XD600 46/36/26 crankset and also using Shimano 9 > speed bar ends. If it makes a difference. > > I read something on the 650B list about bending in the leading tip of the > outer plate to prevent overshifting. I really don't want to trash a > perfectly good front derailer but I'd be willing to try it if there was a > reasonable expectation of it being successful. To quote: > > "On my last successful Ritchey crank build I used an NOS first generation > Shimano deer head with said alignment and the leading tip of the outer > plate bent in to better keep the 9spd chain from over shifting when coming > back up onto the big ring." > > Or is there a different derailer model I should be using? I'm open to it. > > -- > Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
