Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
"our" Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
maintenance, but frame issues are definitely "above my pay grade" - 
assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water and 
then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and showed me 
that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint between the 
lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or took to 
develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park it, and 
opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I looked at 
much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it cleaned up, 
I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little "tab" on the right is 
bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if it was a 
paint chip or metal).

<https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/AAAAAAAABcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg>
I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to me 
(I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so saving 
a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I figured 
I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
my bikes:

http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

My question for the group is: did I get a second "new bike day," or just a 
"fixed bike day"? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
of course!):

<https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/AAAAAAAABcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg>
Two thoughts on shifting since moving to the new frame: 

1. I had a bear of a time getting the front derailleur to shift properly 
when I swapped frames, especially into the smallest chainring (of a Sugino 
triple). I was using what I think is the same low-profile Shimano MTB 
derailleur that Riv sells, but I just couldn't get it to move in far 
enough, and anyway, when I mounted it as low/close as Shimano recommends, 
shifting to the big/big combination (48/32) would make the chain rub on the 
lever arm where the cable attaches - this must not be an issue on bikes 
with steeper seat tubes, because otherwise it seems like a silly fault to 
make it through the design process. I couldn't say for certain since I had 
already removed everything from the other frame and hardly ever need the 
small chainring anyway, but I vaguely recalled having the same trouble on 
the previous frame as well. I decided that trying out a road derailleur was 
worth the $30 it would cost me, and when I installed it all the trouble 
magically disappeared. The limit screws were even set perfectly right from 
the factory. So for posterity, and anyone else in a similar situation, the 
5mm chainline difference between the road and mountain derailleurs (which I 
wasn't really aware of before) and the different design with the lever arm 
out of the way turned out to be just right.

2. When I built up my (original) Sam, I was coming from STI shifting on a 
road bike (still a nice ride occasionally, but not kid-compatible for 
sure), so I set the (Shimano) bar end shifters to indexed mode. The cable 
tension wasn't quite right a few days ago and the chain was clicking 
against adjacent cogs, so I turned the dial to switch to friction mode. The 
friction shifting has been "good enough" that I haven't bothered to go back 
and fiddle with the cable since. Makes me more inclined to trust Grant's 
"good enough" recommendations on other things in the future.

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