Hi Mike,
It's an easy fix. With some wheel combos we've found the lower edge of
the rear dropout--the "top" edge of the opening of the slot,
interferes about 1-2mm. Not enough to  prevent anything, but enough
for a temporary frustration. Sometimes. The fix is low-tech and to
some may seem off-putting and outrageous, but is actually simple and
harmless.

File it.

Remove the wheel--of course--and give it about ten to twenty strokes
with a file. A small amount of paint will die (this is the harmless
part). If it concerns you, put nail polish on it, but in any case
don't be aghast. We've taken to doing this on many of the bikes here.
Do the left side too.

We recently modified the mold to make this unnecessary, but your
dropout is hardly "defective." It just needs a few love strokes with a
file--if your wheel seems reluctant.

Grant

On Apr 7, 8:17 am, Mike <mjawn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I was just changing out the tire on my rear wheel and was reminded of
> how difficult it is to remove and reinstall the rear wheel on my
> Homer. The skewer end cap bumps into the rear derailer and it slows up
> removal. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the derailer, the drop-
> out or what. On the one hand, since I haven't had a problem with flats
> but it would be infuriating if I were on a brevet and fixing a flat in
> the dark. It seems like the solution is to just back out the skewer
> bolt all the way but again, tightening the bolt while the wheel is
> seated with my meaty fingers is a pain. Maybe I'll post a photo later.
> I've never really had this problem before.
>
> --mike
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