Hi Mike-

Make sure you shift into the smallest cog in the rear before you remove  the 
wheel. This makes it easier to take out and re-install since you know that the 
chain goes back on the small cog for re-install. For the AHH, you need to 
rotate the front derailleur forward and slightly downward as you take out and 
re-install the wheel. It makes it tons easier.

I run a 130 rear wheel and it's spaced at 132.5. This means some finagling with 
the skewer. I generally end up loosening up the skewer quite a bit to get it 
back in the frame and then have to re-adjust once in. It can be frustrating, 
but I find if I actually remember all these tricks, it's pretty easy.

I have Ritchey dropouts on two other bikes and I REALLY hate those for wheel 
installation.

Hope that helps,

Joe

> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 08:17:39 -0700
> Subject: [RBW] Rear wheel installation on Homer
> From: mjawn...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 
> 
> I was just changing out the tire on my rear wheel and was reminded of
> how difficult it is to remove and reinstall the rear wheel on my
> Homer. The skewer end cap bumps into the rear derailer and it slows up
> removal. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the derailer, the drop-
> out or what. On the one hand, since I haven't had a problem with flats
> but it would be infuriating if I were on a brevet and fixing a flat in
> the dark. It seems like the solution is to just back out the skewer
> bolt all the way but again, tightening the bolt while the wheel is
> seated with my meaty fingers is a pain. Maybe I'll post a photo later.
> I've never really had this problem before.
> 
> --mike
> > 

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