I've found ...
In fact, you'll need to "realize" the window, and you should obtain
the real gtk theme style .... (if you didn't realize the window, you
obtain the default gtk theme style)

(I post it here, so i could find it in the future again ;-)

w = gtk.Window()
w.realize()
style=w.get_style()

l=[gtk.STATE_NORMAL,gtk.STATE_ACTIVE,gtk.STATE_PRELIGHT,gtk.STATE_SELECTED,gtk.STATE_INSENSITIVE]
for i in l:
    print "- base",i,style.base[i].to_string()
for i in l:
    print "- text",i,style.text[i].to_string()
for i in l:
    print "- fg",i,style.fg[i].to_string()
for i in l:
    print "- bg",i,style.bg[i].to_string()


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