You have to use javascript or some other client side language to change anything on a page once it is loaded in the browser.
Perhaps with a minor exception: with mozilla, you can select a stylesheet to apply (menu view / use style).
From the CSS 1 spec [1]:
The 'LINK' element references alternative style sheets that the reader can select, while imported style sheets are automatically merged with the rest of the style sheet.
So a possibility without js could be to include several style sheets and let the client choose. Never tried this, just for information.
[1] http://www.w3.org/TR/CSS1#basic-concepts
Christophe
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