Hi William Heat is a big problem, I've had things melt on me mostly foodstuff. This table works well, but I need to get lights, figure about 3 round about 150w which seem the smallest I can get. Don' really use a diffuser cause theres 2 layers, one is transparent and the bottom one is semi opaque. Bruce's idea was to use a flash softbox which seems a good idea to me.
On the subject of ringlights, didn't they use it for fashion shoots in the 80's. How did it work out then, any idea? Feroze ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 2:31 AM Subject: Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Feroze Kistan > Subject: Re: Re[4]: electra studio flash/ring flash > > > > The table top I have looks like this > > http://sell-it-on-the-net.com/online_store/tt_studio_kits.htm > > works great for me. I've seen the tent but I think I would be > limited by > > the size. Most of the stuff I shoot is about the size of a > cell phone > > and larger. I prefer the "openess" of the table top. It gives > a floating > > effect to objects and you have littel or no de-batching, my > most hated > > task. Think that the ring flash would work better for me-any > other lighting > > ideas? > > A nice thing to try with a plexiglass table is to put a diffused > head under the table to illuminate the plexi. This give a true > "floating in space" look to the image, and can be altered by > putting coloured gels on the head. > You can do good table top work with hot lights, except that they > are HOT to work with. This can be anywhere from annoying to > downright dangerous if enough heat is generated to start a > fabric duffuser on fire. I don't really like the light from > ringlights for larger objects. They work great if the object is > smaller than the light, but not very well if the object is > larger. > > William Robb > >
