I think you've run into an inverse-square law problem, something that applies to all light sources. Things will work more consistently this way: Get your subjects as close to the background as possible and use a longish lens to minimize the difference in intensity of light falling on subject and background.
If you try to get a portrait shot of someone in the middle of a large dark room, you risk blown-out faces and dark backgrounds every time, no matter what kind of fancy flash settings are used.
Yong Yang wrote:
I had a question about flash compensation. I ever took some pics in a museum using PZ-1p @ HyP mode with flash. When I got the processed pictures back, I found people's faces were over-exposured. I thought this is because the background was so dark and I should use flash compensation to correct the light emitted from the flash so that people's faces won't be over-exposured. So next time, I did that by using -1.0EV for flash compensation. But when I got the pictures, the same problem existed. I talked to a friend. He told me probably I shouldn't use flash compensation. Instead, I should use exposure compensation to correct the dark background. I haven't tried what he said yet. Can anyone let me know how I should do to get good results for this situation so that next time when I go there I know I'll be getting good pics?
--- "Frank Wajer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi all,
I've been reading about flash compensation on this list but it's not clear to me what it means. I also cannot find anything in the manual of my MZ-5n. Is it the same as fill-flash with the flash at lower output so it won't completely fill in the shadows?
The explanation (trick) about using manual mode and the exposure compensation dial for flash compensation, for what flash/body combinations is that. I just bought a AF360FGZ from ADORAMA (great shop BTW) and it has flash comp. on the flash so I guess I don't need to use the trick?
thanx,
Frank
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