William, I used to fill the tank with water at 38C and allow it to sit in the waterbath for three minutes to get the whole thing up to temperature. Now I just leave the tank, with film inside, in the bath for ten minutes or so before I start with the developer. I didn't notice any difference between soaked and not soaked film when I stopped doing the soaking (for Ektachrome Pro as well as C41 films) but I haven't done it for 10 years. Perhaps there were differences I didn't notice?
Do you find my replies, typed on the top of the message, a nuisance? Don _______________ Dr E D F Williams http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams Author's Web Site and Photo Gallery Updated: March 30, 2002 ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 5:20 PM Subject: Re: Fuji Reala Movie film > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dr E D F Williams" > Subject: Re: Fuji Reala Movie film > > > > By the way, I would fill the tank with water at 38C and pre-soak the film > > for ten minutes before starting to process _if_ there is some kind of > > chemical layer that might need removing, but to start with I'd just treat > it > > as any other C-41. Because one kind of film has some extra 'anti-halation' > > layer it does not follow that another will. I've used 35mm movie film in > > still cameras many times in the past without trouble. Some, Kodak release > > positive (B&W) for example, has no anti-halation backing at all. > > ECNII process has a lamp black type coating on it which removes easily with > isopropyl alcohol. The bleach in C-41 process is much too aggressive for the > dyes in ECNII process film, but the bleach for EP-2 process is acceptable. > I wouldn't presoak a colour film, since the development timing requires dry > film at the start to get the dye layers to process to the correct density. > Presoaking can cause cross curves. > > William Robb >
